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Legend AEAD 200 LE no power-out put

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  • #31
    It won't excite itself right in order to make power or weld
    double check your connections on your idle board also with your manual make sure they are on the right terminals and the wire/spade connectors are "clean"no corrosion

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    • #32
      today found that I have a bad TS1 solenoid.
      Ordered one
      I can say that The Miller Factory Service is BAR NONE
      They were GREAT help Thanks
      Cleaned the both resistors and bands checked CB4 and Ohms on the solenoid was bad
      Did make a big difference on output voltages on AC and DC terminals lead output
      more to come next week
      Did have 2 wires E and F on the idle board that were backwards
      did get a meter to check Hzs and DC amp probe
      I guess that the Secondary Coil in the TS1 is bad , that's just a guess
      Last edited by Tigrig; 08-14-2017, 08:58 PM.

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      • #33
        I now have everything working thanks for the reply's
        in short R2 and R4 needed cleaned
        replaced CR3 CR4 TS1 and Start switch was bad too
        and of course the Idle board and few other parts
        Found later that my brother friend replaced battery and hooked them up backwards and shorted out a lot of parts
        I am working on engine , going to replaced the idle speed jet .
        Cleaned carb and it got trashed trying to remove it.
        Just wanting to get it running smoothly for good voltage control.

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        • #34
          Looks like your on the right track like we said corrosion is a big issue and those engines need to run smooth to get your output right .Got any more pics of that old girl ?Ive seen some that fell off a truck and some with rust holes right through the panels and you wonder how they run and weld smooth as long as I can get parts I will keep running mine I even bought a spare motor for my bluestar 2e just in case...,lol D

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          • #35
            I am now working on the motor.
            It is running rich.
            tryied to lean it out and not responding to closing the mixture screw.
            I dis-assemble the carb all looks fine, cleaned and re-assemble.
            Float, jet and seat,
            going to check the mechanical governor, it wants or has a light hunt to it
            I read the manual and set the a
            Idle to 1700 while holding it against the idle screw , then let go and it set it self to 1860 plus/minus 10 rpms
            new plugs, new gas , pump and filter are old and going to rebuild the fuel pump and replaced the fuel filter
            going to check the float level soon
            any thoughts

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            • #36
              Sounds like the float is set to high try to get it right on the money .after I rebuild the carb I usually flip it over a a few times to make sure I here the float make a klick sound tells me it's moving freely and not getting hung up in the bowl .
              Make sure your needle and seat is clean or new ,no varnish or ethanol crud on there and that the needle moves freely in the seat .
              As for the hunting could be a week gov spring one of mine did that at idle but straightened right out once the arc was struck .D

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              • #37
                Hi...i am a new user here. As per my knowledge output AC voltage from the stator leads should be ~21/41VAC at 1800/3600rpm or 29/57VAC at 1800/3600rpm, again depending on engine. If there is continuity across the stator leads and no short to ground but no output, the flywheel magnets have lost their magnetism.

                pcb assembly
                Last edited by JardCrocker; 12-01-2017, 10:58 AM.

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