Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Repair-welding cast aluminum

Collapse
X
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • #16
    Have no fear of her getting away from me. A year ago I thought I might lose her to cancer and the feeling was horrible, but it has given me a new focus on what is improtant.BTW the reason I was on this forum in the first place was I wanted to keep close while she was sick.

    Peace,

    Comment


    • #17
      As mentioned above, preheating is the only way to go with cast aluminum. If you are using a torch to preheat make sure you keep the temp below 500 deg. Use a temp stick, or one method I was shown years ago is to blacken the weld area with carbon from lighting acetylene only. Then heat with a neutral flame until the carbon burns off. This will put the metal right at 500 or less deg. Preheating the aluminum will also require less amperage to weld.
      As everyone knows sometimes cast alum is just a pain so good luck!

      Comment


      • #18
        bringing back an old, but relavent, topic.

        i had to weld a trans case today. it had a 1/2" hole in it. i cleaned it really well. but, as you know, it had the pepper flakes in it. that wasn't the real problem. nor was the old lincoln i was using, plenty of power. the problem was, it leaked. i used solvent to check for a leak, and it leaked. my main problem was that i wasn't given enough time to do the job, and was missing a few tools(carbide die grinder, and wire brush). it turned out pretty good anyway.

        what no one has brought up. what filler to use ? i used 4043. but i have used(not on trans welds) a smoother flowing rod. but i don't remember the name of it. i was thinking it would make things go better ?

        Comment


        • #19
          I do insurance vehicles all the time with broken trans and engine blocks etc.. . I have mainly used my aerowave for this with a balled zirc tungsten no preheat and hz around 40 and i use 4043 filler . i agree with the tinning as once you get first bead down then its easier from there . I have found that you may have to wash over the weld with just the torch at times if your getting lack of fusion due to crap in the base metal other than that Ive had no problems . I use straight argon. the reason i run my hz low as it puts more heat in the material so as then i dont need a preheat . Im just starting to use the dx 200 mobile for this and i have found the settings to be dif than the aerowave. ps if its a trans and there is oil good luck it has to be clean or it wont weld . when your welding if you see any black around your puddle it isnt clean enough . I use either flap wheels 60 grit or aluminum carbide burrs for cleaning. but before i use these i brake clean the crap out of it so as to not grind any dirt into the material . Ive also used wire with success as well .normally i use 4043 3/32 for tig or .035 4043 wire in the mig. If you have a smaller machine i would reccomend the preheat route as this will help alot .
          Miller aerowave full feature
          Lincoln power mig 300 with prince gun
          dynasty 200 dx
          lincoln sp 135 plus
          302 trailblazer
          s22p12
          powcon starcut
          cp 400 metal spray

          Comment


          • #20
            well, from what i've read, and you have said. i did a pretty good job of it. and next time i will do better. i'm going to get a piece of scrap to try out my 200dx on. just to see what the different is.

            thanx

            Comment

            Working...
            X