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  • TIG Welding a tight area.

    I have a Diversion 165 welder and looking to expand my knowledge/capability. You guy's always level me up. I can't get my cup insider here to weld it like I would like. How do you recommend I weld this bead? It is OK if the weld goes onto the third tube.

    I know I need to change my cup size. But what other parameters need to change and what can I expect?

    6061 Aluminum 0.035 wall (thin!)
    currently I have a #7 cup.


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    Last edited by ggodwin; 07-02-2014, 06:53 AM.

  • #2
    Originally posted by ggodwin View Post
    I have a Diversion 165 welder and looking to expand my knowledge/capability. You guy's always level me up. I can't get my cup insider here to weld it like I would like. How do you recommend I weld this bead? It is OK if the weld goes onto the third tube.

    I know I need to change my cup size. But what other parameters need to change and what can I expect?

    6061 Aluminum 0.035 wall (thin!)
    currently I have a #7 cup.


    Name:  faccfef91640f085a3f09bef1dc74c5c.jpg
Views: 1
Size:  37.0 KB


    A gas lens with a longer tungsten stick out may be helpful.
    sigpic

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    • #3
      Originally posted by ggodwin View Post
      I have a Diversion 165 welder and looking to expand my knowledge/capability. You guy's always level me up. I can't get my cup insider here to weld it like I would like. How do you recommend I weld this bead? It is OK if the weld goes onto the third tube.

      I know I need to change my cup size. But what other parameters need to change and what can I expect?

      6061 Aluminum 0.035 wall (thin!)
      currently I have a #7 cup.


      Name:  faccfef91640f085a3f09bef1dc74c5c.jpg
Views: 1
Size:  37.0 KB
      Longer stickout. Increase shielding gas flow a bit for the longer stickout. I would attack it from the sides. No need to weld straight down.
      Lincoln Vantage 400
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      XR-Aluma Pro Gun
      Diversion™ 180

      Spectrum® 625 X-TREME™

      Thermal Dynamics® Cutmaster® 52
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      • #4
        Should I start the bead in the deepest of the tight spots?

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        • #5
          Originally posted by ggodwin View Post
          Should I start the bead in the deepest of the tight spots?
          I would weld into or toward the deepest spot, the additional heat input may help the flow of material into that area.
          sigpic

          Dynasty 200 DX
          Millermatic 350P
          30A Spoolgun
          Lincoln Pro Mig 140
          Hypertherm Powermax 30
          14" Rage Evolution dry saw
          40 ton press brake
          Evenheat Heat treat oven

          1x42 / 4x48 belt grinder

          Comment


          • #6
            This set would help you. BTW, they are CK Worldwide, not junk.

            http://www.ebay.com/itm/Stubby-Gas-L...item20dab56630
            Last edited by cope; 07-02-2014, 05:11 PM.

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            • #7
              Maybe a plain cup might get you further in there as well, try a 6.

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              • #8
                gas lens + aluminum foil dam so you can get the stick out that you need, or this

                CK Micro Tig Torch
                HTP Invertig221 D.V. Water-cooled
                Eastwood MIG175 w/spoolgun
                Eastwood Versacut40 Plasma cutter

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                • #9
                  Since both tubes need to be welded you can bring the weld up higher onto the tubes as they spread far enough apart to allow the cup to get in.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Yes, the bead can flow onto the third tube. Just make sure you aren't just bridging the gap. Don't be afraid of a bigger fillet. As Oscar said, a foil dam is a great tool. I use them a lot, especially when working with titanium. With that joint, I'd run a gas lens, #8 cup, and about 18-20 CFH. That should suffice to get the coverage you'll need with the additional stickout.


                    Trying out a Dynasty by Zanconato Custom Cycles, on Flickr
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                    • #11
                      What do you mean by Aluminum foil dam?
                      I attempted this joint and it did not turn out the way I wanted it to. I think the gas lens may be an new purchase.

                      Is the gas lens a handy tool to use all the time? or just in these joints?

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by zank View Post
                        Yes, the bead can flow onto the third tube. Just make sure you aren't just bridging the gap. Don't be afraid of a bigger fillet. As Oscar said, a foil dam is a great tool. I use them a lot, especially when working with titanium. With that joint, I'd run a gas lens, #8 cup, and about 18-20 CFH. That should suffice to get the coverage you'll need with the additional stickout.


                        Trying out a Dynasty by Zanconato Custom Cycles, on Flickr
                        Zank,
                        Which welder do you use? I think I'm very limited with my diversion. Not really sure how capable it is.

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by ggodwin View Post
                          What do you mean by Aluminum foil dam?
                          I attempted this joint and it did not turn out the way I wanted it to. I think the gas lens may be an new purchase.

                          Is the gas lens a handy tool to use all the time? or just in these joints?
                          http://www.weldingtipsandtricks.com/welding-4130.html


                          a gas lens to save on argon is great if you know how to manage the stick out. If you go stupid crazy on the stick out, then you don't get any gas savings because you have to increase the argon flow. Keep the stickout as low as you can possibly manage, and you will be surprised how low you can turn down the argon flow without oxidation from the atmosphere.

                          Of course the other edge of the sword is that you can use much longer stickouts IF you are willing to accept the greater argon consumption that goes along with longer stickouts. For these kinds of joints, when you're right in the middle of the "V", you pretty much have to use a longer stickout and accept that you're using more argon for that one joint.

                          Even then, an aluminum foil dam works great in addition to a gas lens because argon just "rolls" around and off the joint because of it's density. It's denser than air, so it wants to flow downwards before it ends up mixing with the atmosphere naturally. Using both an aluminum foil dam AND a gas lens you can fine tune the argon consumption (the lowest being a close fitting dam and adjusting the argon flow to suit).

                          Also, make absolutely certain you put a fresh clean grind on your tungsten. Get as long of a taper as you can (3-5x the diameter is what I would use on a 1/16" tungsten if I were you). If you just approach this weld with any old crappy crud'd up tungsten you found in a drawer, you're doomed to begin with. Little things like this (which we can't be sure of unless you disclose each and every single little detail in the beginning of the discussion) are what help out in the long run (meaning it will keep a very stable arc that will not tend to wander off to the sides as much as it would if you did not plan ahead for this type of joint).
                          Last edited by OscarJr; 07-08-2014, 11:23 AM.
                          HTP Invertig221 D.V. Water-cooled
                          Eastwood MIG175 w/spoolgun
                          Eastwood Versacut40 Plasma cutter

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