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VERY DISAPOINTED with the new trailblazer 325

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  • VERY DISAPOINTED with the new trailblazer 325

    Well I pulled the trigger and bought a new TB325, sold my Pro300D for getting something a little smaller in size, but still have a lots of amps.

    First off I would like to say that it does weld nice once the arc is going.....

    That being said...... heres my thing I HATE about this welder, HOT START IS FOR WELDERS THAT DON'T KNOW HOW TO STRIKE A ARC......It sucks bad starts every where, 6010 with a little wide gap and the furking welder keeps giving you hot start cause it thinks the arc is not right and bam you have a hole to fix........

    SS 3/32 rod......... every start just farked.............. HOT START should never ever be built into a welder............. who ever at Miller thought this would be great should be FIRED........................

    Next thing that really burns my butt.... the TB302 had a nice large fill spout where you could see right in the tank to fill it, I have mine sideways in the box of my truck so the side you need to open to see the fuel level can not be opened, if yo look in the spout to see the level of fuel when filling you can't see the line on the outside to fill it to, maybe in the mould that the tanks are made from put a 1/2" bar sticking in to see the fuel level at it then I can fill it the most I can with out over filling???

    I love all my Miller products and would sell them day in and day out, I feel they make a great product and service and some of the best.

    But Miller should be ashammed of this one........

    I'm sorry if I have offened anyone here but I feel this one is a POS.

    I have about 18 hrs on this machine, I call my area rep and no call back

    If John would like to give me a call shoot me a PM and i will gadly give him my number.

    Ty Moore

    P.S. if there is a way to shut that hot start off and I missed it in the book, please forgive my rant and it will make one awesome machine, now before some of you flame me, there is a few really good ideas on this machine that does make it nice....
    2007 Trailblazer 302G
    2004 Invision 354MP
    1999 60 series feeder
    2005 Maxstar 200DX
    2007 CST280
    1999 HF 251-1
    older Hobart hefty wire feeder
    Hyperthrem 600
    Maxstar 150S(such a cute welder)
    had and sold........
    2003 XMT 304CC/CV
    1947 Lincoln SA200G short hood
    1963 Lincoln SA200G
    1975 Lincoln SA200G(best machine ever had )
    1970's Lincoln SAE400G
    2 Maxstar's 200DX's
    1 Maxstar 200SD
    CST 280
    2 CST 250
    MM130


    Railmen

  • #2
    Three stick modes

    According to the spec sheet, there are three Stick modes EXX18, EXX10 and Gouge
    EXX18: Optimized for the majority of Stick welding applications.
    EXX10: Hot start and arc characteristics optimized for pipe
    applications.
    Gouge: Maximized output for Air Carbon Arc Cutting
    and Gouging.

    Have you tried both the XX18 and XX10 modes?

    Richard
    Syncrowave 200, Millermatic 211, Victor torch, Propane forge....

    Comment


    • #3
      Oh I've tried everything........... every setting, different cables, different rod, standing on my head, held my butt cheeks tight..........

      Railmen
      2007 Trailblazer 302G
      2004 Invision 354MP
      1999 60 series feeder
      2005 Maxstar 200DX
      2007 CST280
      1999 HF 251-1
      older Hobart hefty wire feeder
      Hyperthrem 600
      Maxstar 150S(such a cute welder)
      had and sold........
      2003 XMT 304CC/CV
      1947 Lincoln SA200G short hood
      1963 Lincoln SA200G
      1975 Lincoln SA200G(best machine ever had )
      1970's Lincoln SAE400G
      2 Maxstar's 200DX's
      1 Maxstar 200SD
      CST 280
      2 CST 250
      MM130


      Railmen

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by Railmen View Post
        Well I pulled the trigger and bought a new TB325, sold my Pro300D for getting something a little smaller in size, but still have a lots of amps.

        First off I would like to say that it does weld nice once the arc is going.....

        That being said...... heres my thing I HATE about this welder, HOT START IS FOR WELDERS THAT DON'T KNOW HOW TO STRIKE A ARC......It sucks bad starts every where, 6010 with a little wide gap and the furking welder keeps giving you hot start cause it thinks the arc is not right and bam you have a hole to fix........

        SS 3/32 rod......... every start just farked.............. HOT START should never ever be built into a welder............. who ever at Miller thought this would be great should be FIRED........................

        Next thing that really burns my butt.... the TB302 had a nice large fill spout where you could see right in the tank to fill it, I have mine sideways in the box of my truck so the side you need to open to see the fuel level can not be opened, if yo look in the spout to see the level of fuel when filling you can't see the line on the outside to fill it to, maybe in the mould that the tanks are made from put a 1/2" bar sticking in to see the fuel level at it then I can fill it the most I can with out over filling???

        I love all my Miller products and would sell them day in and day out, I feel they make a great product and service and some of the best.

        But Miller should be ashammed of this one........

        I'm sorry if I have offened anyone here but I feel this one is a POS.

        I have about 18 hrs on this machine, I call my area rep and no call back

        If John would like to give me a call shoot me a PM and i will gadly give him my number.

        Ty Moore

        P.S. if there is a way to shut that hot start off and I missed it in the book, please forgive my rant and it will make one awesome machine, now before some of you flame me, there is a few really good ideas on this machine that does make it nice....
        Hi Ty,
        Could you please send us your contact information in a private message? Our product manager and welding engineer would like to talk to you directly about the features and issues you are having.

        Thanks,
        Miller Welding Forums Administrator

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by Miller Welders View Post
          Hi Ty,
          Could you please send us your contact information in a private message? Our product manager and welding engineer would like to talk to you directly about the features and issues you are having.

          Thanks,
          Miller Welding Forums Administrator
          five,one,nine-three,two,eight-zero,one,seven,six

          as the PM don't seem to be working right

          Ty
          2007 Trailblazer 302G
          2004 Invision 354MP
          1999 60 series feeder
          2005 Maxstar 200DX
          2007 CST280
          1999 HF 251-1
          older Hobart hefty wire feeder
          Hyperthrem 600
          Maxstar 150S(such a cute welder)
          had and sold........
          2003 XMT 304CC/CV
          1947 Lincoln SA200G short hood
          1963 Lincoln SA200G
          1975 Lincoln SA200G(best machine ever had )
          1970's Lincoln SAE400G
          2 Maxstar's 200DX's
          1 Maxstar 200SD
          CST 280
          2 CST 250
          MM130


          Railmen

          Comment


          • #6
            Well, thats just wierd, never heard of those problems before lol Now hot start is built into all brands and no you can't turn it off

            I haven't been on for a while as setting up the new shop....

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by cruizer View Post
              Well, thats just wierd, never heard of those problems before lol Now hot start is built into all brands and no you can't turn it off

              I haven't been on for a while as setting up the new shop....


              Man, been wondering where you been. Seems like the forum has had less traffic the last few months. Though everyone was dropping out.
              sigpic

              Dynasty 200 DX
              Millermatic 350P
              30A Spoolgun
              Lincoln Pro Mig 140
              Hypertherm Powermax 30
              14" Rage Evolution dry saw
              40 ton press brake
              Evenheat Heat treat oven

              1x42 / 4x48 belt grinder

              Comment


              • #8
                Update on TB325

                Ok here is what is happening as of today, I talked to some one at Miller(very sorry guys I can't remember your names) last week about what I was seeing with my new machine. I told them what I was doing and the results I was getting, so they very nicely listen to what I had to say. They took notes and said they were going to try and see the same things I was..........

                So today I get a call back from these two nice guys from Miller, and they report to me that yes they are seeing some of the stuff that I do.

                After talking to them for 15min or so, they decide that just maybe that there might be a board, so they are going to change it out for me and see if that helps

                I'm very happy with the efforts that Miller is putting froward on solving this issue.

                Railmen
                2007 Trailblazer 302G
                2004 Invision 354MP
                1999 60 series feeder
                2005 Maxstar 200DX
                2007 CST280
                1999 HF 251-1
                older Hobart hefty wire feeder
                Hyperthrem 600
                Maxstar 150S(such a cute welder)
                had and sold........
                2003 XMT 304CC/CV
                1947 Lincoln SA200G short hood
                1963 Lincoln SA200G
                1975 Lincoln SA200G(best machine ever had )
                1970's Lincoln SAE400G
                2 Maxstar's 200DX's
                1 Maxstar 200SD
                CST 280
                2 CST 250
                MM130


                Railmen

                Comment


                • #9
                  Open the left cover and see if the tank vent line is squshed as well, seems to be a popular thing. In the winter you'll likely need a full cover, I've got them (custom made for the 325) as the tank vent solinoid likes to freeze shut and the throttle encoder likes to freeze as well. Also toss the foam element on the air cleaner.

                  When you change the oil, use a Lubrifiner PH2835 (no Fram,Hastings or Kohler), spark pugs are NGK BPR5EGP, and the Airfilter is a Lubrifiner LAF 5802. Always use a "Diesel oil, like 5-40 ( as no additives), or Quaker 5-50 (no other brand)
                  Last edited by cruizer; 05-01-2014, 10:23 AM.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Trail blazer

                    I am having a problem with a TB 302 ,I believe I posted this here before but didn't get any help, here it goes Intermittent arc . LWS have replaced brushes and a board stil have problems. One LWS told me to take it back when I am having issues with it ""I said intermittent" may not act up when they have it .Hello MILLER can you help? All I use at my own shop is true blue and also at the day job so please help.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by SNUNEZ View Post
                      I am having a problem with a TB 302 ,I believe I posted this here before but didn't get any help, here it goes Intermittent arc . LWS have replaced brushes and a board stil have problems. One LWS told me to take it back when I am having issues with it ""I said intermittent" may not act up when they have it .Hello MILLER can you help? All I use at my own shop is true blue and also at the day job so please help.
                      Thanks for letting us know. Can you send us your contact information via private message so we can get in touch with you directly?

                      Thanks,
                      Miller Welding Forums Administrator

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by SNUNEZ View Post
                        I am having a problem with a TB 302 ,I believe I posted this here before but didn't get any help, here it goes Intermittent arc . LWS have replaced brushes and a board stil have problems. One LWS told me to take it back when I am having issues with it ""I said intermittent" may not act up when they have it .Hello MILLER can you help? All I use at my own shop is true blue and also at the day job so please help.
                        Because its intermitant, I'd guess that it has something to do with your cables, best to yank on the connections and clean the green corrosion from them. Are you using spools?, Another thing is that you really want that engine to be tuned to 62.5hz, too low and your going to have problems as well, Too high and same thing

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Intermitant problems are difficult o find, however it won't be a $$ board, or generator issue. Often a simple loose or corroded connector. Best to use a Dielectric grease in ALL molex connections to the boards

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by cruizer View Post
                            Intermitant problems are difficult o find, however it won't be a $$ board, or generator issue. Often a simple loose or corroded connector. Best to use a Dielectric grease in ALL molex connections to the boards
                            Cruizer,
                            You reccomend dielectric grease in all molex connections to the boards. I have found a few articles which may be of interest.

                            To Prevent Electrical Problems:

                            1.Avoid silicone sprays.

                            1.Use a good spray cleaner like DeoxIT D5 Connector & Contact Treatment. This breaks up the oxides and contamination. This is only a cleaner and the cleaning improves conductivity.

                            2.Use an electrical contact enhancer like Stabilant 22 or Stabilant 22A. Initially it is non-conductive and then switches to a conductor in the presence of electricity. This switching ability is set so that the material will remain non-conductive between adjacent contacts in a multiple connector, and yet enhance the conductivity of each connector. It's as if it had its own brain, and it provides a tenfold to a hundredfold increase in connector reliability.

                            Skip this paragraph if you're not technical. Stabilant 22 is a potentially electricly-active material which through a synergistic combination of effects enhances conductivity within a contact without causing leakage between adjacent contacts. While Stabilant 22 has a high dielectric constant it acts to form a capacitive layer which is in parallel with whatever residual resistance exists in the contact increasing the passage of AC signals. However, given sufficient DC bias within the gaps of the contact the thin film of Stabilant 22 will "switch" to conducting by quantum tunneling and thus limit the resistance of the contact to a serviceable level.

                            Nick

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Cruizer,
                              Here is another. I have seen conflicting opinions. Please let me know what you think.
                              Thanks,
                              Nick

                              As written by Wayne Orwig, MGNOC Georgia State Rep.

                              Using Dielectric Grease on connectors.

                              A lot of people use dielectric grease on connectors. Some people mistakenly believe that dieletric grease is a conductor. In fact, it is just the opposite; it is an insulator. Dielectric grease is typically made of silicone grease.

                              As an insulator, dielectric grease is good for use on spark plug boots. This was one of the original applications on vehicles when the high-energy ignition systems came out. It can help insulate the connector and, in particular on a motorcycle where it can get wet, it waterproofs the spark plug boot. And, because it is silicone, it is fairly stable at high temperatures and won't affect the rubber and plastics.

                              So why would you put an insulator on a connector? The idea is that you use a thin layer. When you push the connector together the grease is pushed out of the way enough to get a connection and the surrounding grease then keeps out water and oxygen. The connector will be protected from the environment and less likely to corrode. Plus, the silicone is safe for the plastics and PVC insulation.

                              That sounds good, so far; so why not smear it on everything? Well there are a number of good reasons.

                              First, silicone grease outgases constantly. If the silicone gas gets near a connector or a contact, such as a relay, and there is a spark, the spark at the contact can create silicon dioxide. Some people even suggest that the silicone gas from dielectric grease can travel many feet through the unsulation on a wire and damage a contact on the other end. Omron states that even their sealed switches can be damaged by nearby silicone grease outgassing. Reference the following links for more info:

                              http://www.omron.com/ecb/products/pdf/en-d2vw.pdf

                              http://machinedesign.com/article/lub...-switches-1025

                              Second, it is an insulator. It can prevent contacts from touching. If you do use it, use a very thin layer.

                              Third, if you have a corroded connection, silicone grease will not help. In fact, it may make it worse. It can never improve anything. Dielectric grease will never make a poor connection better.

                              Fourth, it attracts dust and dirt and it hardens over time. This means that if you smear a lot of silicone grease on connectors you may see nearby relays, switches, or points fail later on. Since silicone grease does nothing at all to improve the connection and, in fact, may insulate the contacts in the connector increasing the resistance the connector may still fail.

                              So what do you do? Look for a contact enhancer/lube. While most contact cleaners are simple solvents that just wash the connector off there are contact enhancers that deoxidize the contact surface and actually work to lower the contact resistance (make a better connection). Most contact enhancers leave a lubricant behind that protects the metal and continue to deoxidize the metal and improve the connection. They can work to lower the resistance and make a better contact as time goes by. The best you can hope for from dielectric grease is that it seals it enough to not get worse. I have used Caig Deoxit on my bikes for a few years now. I first found out about this on my job when I had to correct an issue in a connector system that could not tolerate even 5 thousandths of an ohm of resistance drift. We had a connector in the field that had been improperly plated and was starting to drift, mostly in warm humid areas like Florida. Our testing showed that the Caig Deoxit could be a good long-term fix. We ended up using the Deoxit to stabilize the bad units until we could get corrected wiring harnesses built with the correct connectors. We also put a layer of Deoxit on the new parts to protect and keep them clean over their lifetime. This solved the drift issue that we had.

                              I still use a small amount of silicone grease on my spark plug caps. It helps to waterproof them and makes it easier to pull the cap off, but I use it in very small amounts and never near a relay or switch.

                              Comment

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