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  • Stick electrode problem

    Hi Everyone,

    Can Somebody help me with this. I'm using a DC welder and I'm encountering a problem where the filler metal of the stick electrodes melts faster than the flux. This produces a concave inside the stick electrode, hence making it difficult to strike an arc again. You have to break the protruding flux before the arc will ignite again.
    The stick electrode I'm using is 6013 1/8" diameter china rod. When comparing to a locally manufactured electrode of 7018 1/8" diameter rod (best quality), the flux and the filler metal melt at the same time.

    Any ideas why this happened? Thanks! Much appreciated.
    Attached Files

  • #2
    Normal

    Hi Mawz17,

    you are experiencing a normal thing. Everyone deals with it in their own way, I roll the electrode tip between my fingers to break it away or strike the electrode aggressively if the weld is non-critical.

    Don't sweat it mate

    Nick

    Comment


    • #3
      That happens with 70-18 too, quite often actually. Nowadays its just a ' must do' before I weld

      Comment


      • #4
        find a limb of an oak or maple tree about 5'dia, slice off about 5 " or so, drill a 3/4" hole in the ctr about 1" deep, use this hole to twist off the flux, save the gloves, also, when your torch tip gets grimmy, just drag it over the oak while it is still burning, it cleans the tip, this does not replace a tip cleaner, it cleans the torch good enough so you can keep working, then clean it with the tip cleaner when it cools off. instead of a limb from a tree, any piece of oak will do, you see this in the shops usually run by the grey beard welders

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by kevin View Post
          find a limb of an oak or maple tree about 5'dia
          I would love to find some 5' dia trees. I have the saw...Bob
          Attached Files
          Bob Wright

          Spool Gun conversion. How To Do It. Below.
          http://www.millerwelds.com/resources...php?albumid=48

          Comment


          • #6
            Did I miss something here?,...............

            Comment


            • #7
              I dont know what to say, other than, thats a saw, a real saw. I cant help but like it, like it alot

              Comment


              • #8
                thumbs up for the 5' diameter maple or oak...jeez everything is bigger south of the border

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by willy j View Post
                  Did I miss something here?,...............
                  Yup.
                  Dynasty 280DX
                  Bobcat 250
                  MM252
                  Spool gun
                  Twentieth Century 295
                  Twentieth Century 295 AC
                  Marquette spot welder
                  Smith torches

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by kevin View Post
                    I dont know what to say, other than, thats a saw, a real saw. I cant help but like it, like it alot
                    Thanks Kevin. I couldn't afford one in '76 when my dad was a dealer of the Echo brand. A guy emailed me and said he had a box of big saw parts under his porch if i was interested. It had cut Northern Cali wood its whole life and didn't run. Well being an Echo Tech i got her going and love using it even with a smaller bar on it. Since we don't have much big wood except for the Maples and Willows that seem to grow in clumps off the stump. 100cc and it will move some chips. Sorry for the post hack Got excited talking about saws...Bob
                    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0wDHm...=ULEMCjHs9z1d8
                    Bob Wright

                    Spool Gun conversion. How To Do It. Below.
                    http://www.millerwelds.com/resources...php?albumid=48

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      A not amusing reply; try a shorter arc. it should help you to maintain an arc until the electrode is consumed. If you have to restart the arc with a used stick, bang on it against something non conductive like a 5" piece of hardwood. This will break the flux. Scratch start in the joint where you can burn it out, drawing it to the point you stopped.
                      Dynasty 280DX
                      Bobcat 250
                      MM252
                      Spool gun
                      Twentieth Century 295
                      Twentieth Century 295 AC
                      Marquette spot welder
                      Smith torches

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Or you could break off the glassy end of the used rod with a chipping hammer before you put it back in the stinger or even a pair of pliers in the stinger...Bob
                        Bob Wright

                        Spool Gun conversion. How To Do It. Below.
                        http://www.millerwelds.com/resources...php?albumid=48

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          bob, did you say something not amusing, there arent many places where trees grow big enough for that baby. a little tree history about new hampshire, in the 18 hundreds, n.h. had about 87% deforested land, cleared for sheep farming. now its the opposite, about 87% forested, so with that said, the trees could be over 100 years old, but with logging, almost all of nh trees are about 50 yrs on average, so if you come visit, leave the big boy home, bring one with a 16" bar, your state has endured a lot of and clearing, as with western ny

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            back on the subject here,mauz, what you are being told is necessary for 7018, i dont use 6013 so i cant comment, if you are serious about welding, ditch the 6013 and run 7018, thats the real deal,it may be problematic a bit but keep practising, if you stay with 6013, you will be wasting valuable practice time. it gets confusing, each rod has its quirks, if you run some stainless rod, that makes a big hang nail, but it is not needed to beat the thing to get it to fall off, you just get it close to the work and it takes care of itself, meaning, it lights right up. good luck

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by kevin View Post
                              back on the subject here,mauz, what you are being told is necessary for 7018, i dont use 6013 so i cant comment, if you are serious about welding, ditch the 6013 and run 7018, thats the real deal,it may be problematic a bit but keep practising, if you stay with 6013, you will be wasting valuable practice time. it gets confusing, each rod has its quirks, if you run some stainless rod, that makes a big hang nail, but it is not needed to beat the thing to get it to fall off, you just get it close to the work and it takes care of itself, meaning, it lights right up. good luck
                              Hey! thanks a lot guys. The 6013 rod came from a friend who was just starting on welding so he used a student rod. I was curious about this issue because this was the first time I encountered it. Do other rods like 6011, 6010 have the same effect? I mean the end of the rod caves in?

                              Comment

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