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  • #16
    Originally posted by duaneb55 View Post
    Out of 19 additives tested in a third party blind test, Stanadyne Lubricity Formula only scored 8th out of 9 of the additives that tested better than the US Standard HFRR score of 520 and still missed the Engine Manufacturers Association desired target of 460 by 19 points. The Performance Formula didn't make the cut at all according to the test report below.

    http://www.johnfjensen.com/Diesel_fu...itive_test.pdf

    Disclaimer: Other independent or manufacturers tests as well as your personal results may vary.
    Thanks for the information. I much prefer to see facts rather than hearsay with no factual backup.

    Griff

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    • #17
      I hear you there Griff.

      I certainly have my opinions on many things but subjects such as this need to be backed up.

      I have absolutely no affiliation with the testing facility or the folks that published the results but I should add that the one FPPF and three Opti-Lube products scored in the top 5. One FPPF product and some "famous" names didn't make the cut so it's important to know the ones that did and which ones performed the best to make the most informed decision.
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      • #18
        I run Optilube XPD in every gallon of fuel that goes through my pickup. It seems to make things quieter and smoke a bit less. I used to run stanadyne in everything until I read that study. The Optilube XPD is a bit expensive, but I buy a few gallons at a time from Synthetic Motorsports and save a few bucks off the retail price. I like it. But that doesn't mean you will.

        If you read that study Biodiesel is really the best wear additive. You will still have gelling problems in the cold. And apparently some diesel engines do not like it.

        Also, don't freak out. I am not associated with any of the products, retailers, studies or anything about diesel fuel additive other than an active consumer of such products.

        Does using these things make everything run better? I don't know. I know that I don't run into gelling problems when I fill up with diesel in Phoenix and then drive up to 0 degree temps in the mountains. That is something.
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        • #19
          Originally posted by gnforge View Post
          I'm the same!! Makes me cringe every time I start mine. I never rev a motor up till has good oil pressure and cyl. temp is up. That's basic engine 101. And if I would have reved a cold engine up as a kid a would have got slapped up side the head, & well deserved. I hate to start my Big 40 Diesel cold.
          Agreed they do last but how much longer and less repairs would u have if we're set up correct.
          I always run high quality oil and good additive such as Lucas or equivalent to keep damage at Min. Still makes me cringe every start.

          I believe I've figured out how to partially reduce the fast run time after start.
          After the engine fires, and go to the "Run/idle" position, then go to "run", then back to "run/idle". As soon as you hit the run/idle position the second time, it immediately idles down.
          It reduces the fast run time to at least 1/3 of its normal fast run time had you initially stayed in the run/idle selection.
          It seems to outsmart the electronics and idles down sooner.
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          • #20
            I hope that's not hard on the run idle. I guess its a trade off which is harder on the unit.

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            • #21
              Originally posted by Kpack View Post
              I hope that's not hard on the run idle. I guess its a trade off which is harder on the unit.
              Could you or someone elaborate on this run-idle system? What's the difference between me running beads and it cycling between run and idle, and I doing it with the switch?
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              • #22
                I don't know I'm just scared to mess with that switch . But I also understand your concern about running at high rpm when started up maybe some of the experts will weigh in. My bobcat is so cold natured it takes awhile to be able to idle down surge.

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                • #23
                  I would probably let it run as intended from the factory. Some engines need to be started and idled up for a bit to keep plugs from fouling amongst other things. If it was a problem miller wouldn't keep producing machines that did it. I do hear you though, I still feel weird wrapping up my Dirtbike right after starting it, but it's what works best for that instance.

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                  • #24
                    I've given this a lot of thought. An air-cooled Kohler engine whether it's connected to a generator/welder, or lawn mower, other application is still a Kohler engine with all it's weaknesses when it comes to length of service. Miller is not in the engine business but the welder business. They're not interested in a engine/welder with hard starting characteristics in harsh weather conditions. So they've designed a starting setup that will not fail regardless of the complete idiot at the controls in 10 below zero weather. If the engine lasts a few hundred hours less, who cares. But I do. So I think I'll stick with the above technique I've discovered and hope I'll get more life out of the engine before I kick the bucket. IMHO
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                    "I'm a slow walker, but I never walk backwards" - Abraham Lincoln

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                    • #25
                      What proof do you have that any extra wear is being put on the motor? This is a debate I've seen on many a car forum. The truth is nobody has any legitimate way to know, so a whole bunch of opinion gets thrown around as fact. The only people who I would trust information from would be the manufacture.

                      Would every single car in the entire world come from the factory with a cold startup idle circuit of some kind if it was putting additional wear on the engine? I would suspect not as recalls and warranties can kill a company quick.

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                      • #26
                        Originally posted by Cgotto6 View Post
                        What proof do you have that any extra wear is being put on the motor? This is a debate I've seen on many a car forum. The truth is nobody has any legitimate way to know, so a whole bunch of opinion gets thrown around as fact. The only people who I would trust information from would be the manufacture.

                        Would every single car in the entire world come from the factory with a cold startup idle circuit of some kind if it was putting additional wear on the engine? I would suspect not as recalls and warranties can kill a company quick.
                        This is not the kind of wear you would see in more warranty claims or recalls. It would be more towards the end of an engines life, long after those cars have expired warranties and have had several owners.
                        I've been around air cooled engines for 50 years, including aircraft engines. It is a common sense thing, and a known fact that much of an engines wear comes from initial startup.
                        I use the information from the manufacturer only as a guide. I don't trust everything they say. If they could be trusted, service bulletins would not be needed.

                        A friend of mine didn't believe in proper warm-ups either. He would run his engine hard and fast from start in cold weather. He didn't understand why his block cracked.


                        P.S> One other thing, Cruizer on this forum recommends 5w-50 oil. Claims the engines will last several thousands hours longer. Why doesn't Kohler recommend that? Wouldn't want the engines to last too long, would have to cut back on manufacturing.
                        Last edited by Gobysky; 04-04-2014, 03:14 PM.
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                        Two big fire extinguishers

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                        • #27
                          I don't have a definite opinion on this subject but I cringe when I hear a cold engine racing, especially unloaded. That is probably a learned response from long ago. I will say this though new design engines are not old design engines nor are fuels and lubricants what they were. The older engines may well have tolerated a little carbon build up and blow-by into the oil on cold start up better than the new designs are able to, or it may be a pollution issue in which case they will readily sacrifice your engines longevity to keep emissions down. Just a couple of thoughts.---Meltedmetal

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                          • #28
                            Bobcat 250 starting question

                            I resurrected an old thread, mainly because I changed out my 10w-30 oil in my Kohler with Castrol Syn 5W-50. First thing I noticed was quieter valves. As per Cruizer's recommendations, I'll start running this oil. Couldn't find Quaker 5w-50. So hopefully this will work well, and live long.
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                            Two big fire extinguishers

                            "I'm a slow walker, but I never walk backwards" - Abraham Lincoln

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                            • #29
                              Originally posted by Gobysky View Post
                              I resurrected an old thread, mainly because I changed out my 10w-30 oil in my Kohler with Castrol Syn 5W-50. First thing I noticed was quieter valves. As per Cruizer's recommendations, I'll start running this oil. Couldn't find Quaker 5w-50. So hopefully this will work well, and live long.
                              Actually no on the 5-50 anymore as all the zinc additive has been removed, go to Quaker state "DEFY", or even better a quality motorcycle oil. as for pesky recomendations. Kohler says that there engine needs a rebuild at 2500 hrs. My many many rig welders are exceeding that figure to 10K -12K hours. no glitches, zero problems. And they work thier machines hard!

                              All this oil BS is nuts, I post the info, you guys can take it for what its worth, or don't.
                              Last edited by cruizer; 08-07-2014, 03:56 PM.

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                              • #30
                                I've seen guys use that STUPID idle switch, Complete WASTE of time!! Full flow PROPER filter that oil is pumped within a 1/10 of a second on a freezing or hot day. Besides it simply isn't starting without oil pressure anyways

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