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Xmt 304

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  • Xmt 304

    My adult son bought a XMT 304 off local classifieds. Divorcee getting rid of stuff. XMT belonged to ex. He used it all the time, she said. Been sitting in storage over a year, she said. No way to try it at her location. You can bring it back if it doesn't work, she said. My son brings it to the shop. Plug it in. Lights come on, hear clicks and beeps, then a blinking HEL P7 code comes up. Download owners manual. We check wiring under the cover, OK. Our voltages OK. No output. Told son to return it to the lady. Story short, lady gone. Her crackhead son says FU it's yours. Lesson learned. Contacted Miller. "take to authorized service facility. Too much liability to tell you anything". OK, I can understand that in today's lawyer infested world. I'm not entirely stupid as to the inherent electrical hazards of this unit, but I can use a multimeter or change out a PC board without endangering myself. According to the operators manual, PC-1 main control board may be the problem. Serial # of machine is LF141807A. My question is this: would this machine be worth trying to repair or should we sell it as salvage and take the lumps. It is very clean in and out. My son has somewhat less than a thousand in it. He was trying to surprise me with this machine. Can't fault him for his good intentions. Hoping you Miller gurus might offer a ray of hope here.
    Thanks,
    Lake

  • #2
    I am sure Dwayne or Cruizer will be by shortly. Here is some leisure reading in the mean time. http://www.millerwelds.com/resources...-xmt304-help-7

    Comment


    • #3
      Thanks Mr. Walker,
      I'll give it a read.
      Lake

      Comment


      • #4
        Help 7 merely means that you output board caps can't maintain a proper charge and can't discharge, If you were to remove the cover, or the right side there are a couple large capacitors under that "output" board. Remove the 4 5/16" head cap bolts, pry the board back slightly, and with a ohm meter check the resistance. must be around the 18 K ohm mark. If not just order one or 2 from Dijikey. I remove the board then flame the old ones off, much easier that a soldering gun. and put the new ones on.

        You can change them out with the 20K versions ohmite part# L25J20KE
        Last edited by cruizer; 02-08-2014, 03:55 PM.

        Comment


        • #5
          Mr. Cruizer,
          Thank you for your advice. We will dig into it as per your suggestion on Monday. Will probably have questions as we go along if you don't mind our inquiries.
          Best regards,
          Lake

          Comment


          • #6
            Yep, I like inquires, and hopefully solve your problems in an effiecient manner

            Comment


            • #7
              Cruizer, OK, I'm ready to get after this thing. I've removed the small bolts that hold the output board to the blue capacitors, pulled the board away from the capacitors and am now ready to measure the resistance of what to what? You indicated about 18K ohms. Would this be across each of the capacitor terminals ? I tried that and I get a climbing number on my DVM. Sorry to be so blind.
              Thanks,
              Lake

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by lake View Post
                Cruizer, OK, I'm ready to get after this thing. I've removed the small bolts that hold the output board to the blue capacitors, pulled the board away from the capacitors and am now ready to measure the resistance of what to what? You indicated about 18K ohms. Would this be across each of the capacitor terminals ? I tried that and I get a climbing number on my DVM. Sorry to be so blind.
                Thanks,
                Lake
                I also checked the capacitors with my old Simpson analog VOM and they spool up
                to about 60k and then discharge to zero and spool up from the other direction to the same values. Took them out of the machine to test and they look fine, no lumps or burn marks. I also checked them with DOM with a ufarad test position and they both dialed in at 2685 ufarads. I don't think the capacitors are bad, but I don't have the correct equipment to verify my assumption.
                Thanks,
                Lake

                Comment


                • #9
                  yea it sucksto buy something that doesnt work. the lady probably seemed nice but maybe knew it didnt work? i bought a dynasty 200dx that didnt work. it was a couple months out of warranty. luckily miller covered the parts and the guy paid the couple hundred labor. these small inverters are small,lightweight and powerfull, but real expensive to repair. you open one up and wonder how it even works. looks like a tv inside.hopefully cruizer can get you going. hes a heck of a tech guy.good luck

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by cayager View Post
                    yea it sucksto buy something that doesnt work. the lady probably seemed nice but maybe knew it didnt work? i bought a dynasty 200dx that didnt work. it was a couple months out of warranty. luckily miller covered the parts and the guy paid the couple hundred labor. these small inverters are small,lightweight and powerfull, but real expensive to repair. you open one up and wonder how it even works. looks like a tv inside.hopefully cruizer can get you going. hes a heck of a tech guy.good luck

                    Cayager
                    Thank you for the sympathy. My son is pretty torqued over this. I'm afraid he'd wind up in jail if he ever came across that woman or her son again. Appears now that the whole thing was a deliberate fraud, but my son should have been a lot more cautious. He knew better. His experience was kind of like stepping into a dog pile in the middle of the sidewalk. Just gotta open your eyes and watch where you put your feet! Seems like we all get a lesson like this! Glad you lucked out on your 200dx. Great little machine. (I have a Maxstar 200SD. Recently piped in a new boiler install (10",8",6" & 4" pipe) with that little Maxstar. A weeks worth of steady, stick welding. Thought sure it would die on the job, but it didn't!) Anyway, I know Cruizer (and a few others) could sort out this XMT thing of ours in a heartbeat!
                    Lake

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by lake View Post
                      Cruizer, OK, I'm ready to get after this thing. I've removed the small bolts that hold the output board to the blue capacitors, pulled the board away from the capacitors and am now ready to measure the resistance of what to what? You indicated about 18K ohms. Would this be across each of the capacitor terminals ? I tried that and I get a climbing number on my DVM. Sorry to be so blind.
                      Thanks,
                      Lake
                      I said pull the board back a little and with a resistance meter check EACH 2 holes where the caps were mounted. ON each you must get around 18KILO ohms, that 18000 ohms,
                      Last edited by cruizer; 02-11-2014, 12:27 PM.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by cruizer View Post
                        I said pull the board back a little and with a resistance meter check EACH 2 holes where the caps were mounted. ON each you must get around 18KILO ohms, that 18000 ohms,
                        Mr. Cruizer,
                        OK, understood. I measured as you indicated. I read 300K on both pair. Measured with a Simpson analog meter (30x10,000). On my digital VOM reads 292,000 ohms between each pair of holes where the capacitors attach.
                        Lake

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Well, there ya go, replece them both, thats your help 7, go to Newark.com, and with those numbers, order & replace those resistors

                          buy yourself one of those small butane soldering torches

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by cruizer View Post
                            Well, there ya go, replece them both, thats your help 7, go to Newark.com, and with those numbers, order & replace those resistors

                            buy yourself one of those small butane soldering torches
                            Cruizer,
                            You are referring to resistors r-3 and r-4 correct? R-3 sits just above C-3 ( large blue capacitor bolts) and R-4 is located near the center of the interconnect (vertical) board. Both have 20K printed on their side. They appear to be wire wound ceramics. Am I understanding you correctly? Man if everything in life could be so simple! Thanks,
                            Lake

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Ok, great now I have to get up and grab a board....Yes R3 and r4, replace those, and all will be happy, or just cure that error code...Now a simple soldering tool will NOT work. Use a solid flame off one of those butane guns and ELECTRICAL solder to reattach. NOT Plumbing solder. Totally different. This will save you around $600 on a new board. You may want to mark the wires when you take them off, up to you. The wires will fall back to where they go on. But I don't want you making any mistakes

                              Comment

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