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straightening a trailer axle

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  • straightening a trailer axle

    I am suspicious that the 3,500 pound rated axle may be high carbon steel and need to know if I should heat it or not. Someone has already reinforced it but the bend is always between the hub and the springs anyway. I want to strip the hub off, heat it and bend it straight. How do I put enough pressure on it without hammering the spindle and ruining it and any advice on aligning it without putting the hub and wheel back on. I was thinking about making a bar that would fit the backing flange and using that to bend the axle back. I would love a simpler way. Maybe a new axle?

  • #2
    Is the tube bent? or the spindle itself? I assume its a drop spindle. I have straightened them with a rosebud but making them perfect without putting the hub and tire back on is a pain. You can buy new spindles in all flavors and shapes. I just scrapped 40 or so when i emptied out my dads old trailer factory as i didn't have any room...Bob
    Lots of parts here http://www.rigidhitch.com/products/T...&CurrentPage=1
    Bob Wright

    Spool Gun conversion. How To Do It. Below.
    http://www.millerwelds.com/resources...php?albumid=48

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    • #3
      3500# trailer axles are cheap enough it makes little or no sense to bother spending time, heat, money, or risk on them. Just go buy another one. Even better, spend a few more pennies and buy a 5200# axle.
      Obviously, I'm just a hack-artist, you shouldn't be listening to anything I say .....

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      • #4
        Originally posted by aametalmaster View Post
        Is the tube bent? or the spindle itself? I assume its a drop spindle. I have straightened them with a rosebud but making them perfect without putting the hub and tire back on is a pain. You can buy new spindles in all flavors and shapes. I just scrapped 40 or so when i emptied out my dads old trailer factory as i didn't have any room...Bob
        Lots of parts here http://www.rigidhitch.com/products/T...&CurrentPage=1
        The is a low budget straight tube and the bend is usually at the area between the spring and the spindle. I would have to strip the bearings to heat it. I think to upgrade to a 5200 lb axle, it will require a 6 hole wheel. I need to get it off and check for cracks too. thank you.

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        • #5
          good advice

          Originally posted by JSFAB View Post
          3500# trailer axles are cheap enough it makes little or no sense to bother spending time, heat, money, or risk on them. Just go buy another one. Even better, spend a few more pennies and buy a 5200# axle.
          I like your answer. But, I have 5 hole wheels now and I think to upgrade to a 5200 lb axle, it will require a 6 hole wheel. Is this correct?
          thank you.

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          • #6
            That is correct. But around where I am a trailer wheel is VERY cheap. And that is brand new. I bet selling that wheel and buying a 6-lug wheel would be a difference of only $20-30... Unless you get stuck moving to 16" wheels and have to get new tires. That could add a little but for the peace of mind of having heavier rated stuff I don't think you could go wrong. Plus you wouldn't have to screw around with axles in the future. Just some ramblings...
            MillerMatic 251
            Maxstar 150 STH
            Cutmaster 42
            Victor Journeyman OA

            A rockcrawler, er money pit, in progress...

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