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Problem with Miller 211...since it was new

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  • #16
    Did you check your tension setting ? You stated it was going smoothly. The manual does have info on setting drive roll pressure. You hold the gun a couple inches above a piece of wood and squeeze trigger. The wire should curl around when it hits the wood.
    Just thinkin, does the drive rolls match the wire ? Is the polarity correct ?

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    • #17
      I agree with bd1, sounds like the nut on the spool tension is too tight.

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      • #18
        Originally posted by Cgotto6 View Post
        I agree with bd1, sounds like the nut on the spool tension is too tight.
        You might be onto something with that. The other night when I was laying some beads down to take pics of I decided to back off on the drive wheel tension and spool nut. It did seem to weld better and require less wire speed but the problem didn't completely go away. I'll try setting both as per the instruction manual though and see.

        Something about the whole drive mechanism bothers me though. It seems like it is almost wobbling as it turns and it's very creaky/flexible and cheap feeling. To be honest, the drive mechanism on my $300 Lincoln 110 feels more solid.

        The second pic I did was at around 6 and 75 IIRC. I basically just adjusted the wire speed till I got a nice sound and you can see I had to rush the bead to keep up with the high wire speed.

        Group of beads in the 1st and 3rd pic were trying out a new "U" technique to get that TIG look. I was running colder and lower wire speed settings than I'd normally use 4* and 50) and I never really tried it before other than those 5 beads. All were done outside, at night leaning over a cinderblock so I didn't expect them to be great. The pieces were scrap metal that i only quickly cleaned up, but it still just seemed like more splatter than I am used to having except for the smooth bead I ran with high wire speed...for some reason that seemed to be very clean, but then a later one I did wasn't. Maybe it is a ground issue...
        Attached Files
        Last edited by kris396ss; 11-22-2013, 01:59 PM.

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        • #19
          Wish any of my welding beads looked that good.
          Miller Challenger 172
          Hobart AC/DC Stickmate
          Older Sears AC Stick machine

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          • #20
            Problem with Miller 211...since it was new

            Yeah a little bit of splatter but there is nothing wrong with those beads, they look good.

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            • #21
              I too am on the fence with my new 211 (for home). I have always had real good welds with the Linc. SP175 I use at work. I too have been experiancing the same symptoms with my 211 you are experiancing. I have 3 differant size wire spools .23 (Inweld), .30 (Forney) & .35 (Forney). I use mostly the smaller .23 (ment to get .24 but grabed .23). I've been using 220v (as is my work welder). The Miller seems to be kinda stubborn if the metal isn't absolutely clean or it will sputter, pop, splatter and/or burn the wire back to the tip causing the feed to stop until it cools for a second then it will pop loose. I will get kinda ****ty looking weld beads on autobody panels when this happens, the Linc. seems more forgiving. Tonight I was in the garage welding somemore on some rocker patches and thought I would finish with the Miller plugged into 110v and like others have stated before it seemed to smooth out and lay a cleaner weld at least for the short time I used it on 110v, I should have tried it sooner to get a better feel for it on 110v. I don't know why there would be any differance in the way it welds using either 110v or 220v but it did seem to smooth out and lay a better weld on the thinner metal I was welding. Mabey someone could chime in and explain why the differance. You might want to try it on another voltage and see if it helps.

              Dave

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              • #22
                Like some have stated in other postings, the 211 like .030 wire. It also mentioned that Lincoln L -56 brand works real well and is more forgiving on dirty metal. I like the L 56 and it runs fine for me. My 211 is 6 months old and maybe Miller made some changes on the later models .
                For body work I read the ''Easy Grind '' works well. I never done it but read about it here.

                Easy grind
                https://weldingsupply.com/cgi-bin/ei...DEF:OR:130TF44

                L- 56
                http://www.homedepot.com/p/Lincoln-E...0631/100341107
                Last edited by BD1; 11-24-2013, 08:00 AM.

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                • #23
                  Originally posted by BD1 View Post
                  Like some have stated in other postings, the 211 like .030 wire. It also mentioned that Lincoln L -56 brand works real well and is more forgiving on dirty metal. I like the L 56 and it runs fine for me. My 211 is 6 months old and maybe Miller made some changes on the later models .
                  For body work I read the ''Easy Grind '' works well. I never done it but read about it here.

                  Easy grind
                  https://weldingsupply.com/cgi-bin/ei...DEF:OR:130TF44

                  L- 56
                  http://www.homedepot.com/p/Lincoln-E...0631/100341107

                  Mine is about 3-4mo. old. I can't imagine that it would be that picky reguarding wire because the Linc. SP175 I use at work will burn it with no problems. But if using it in 110v dosen't resolve it then I just might have to try a 2lb spool of those wires, I just would hate to throw away 11lb spools of new clean wire and I wont give it to my employer because... well... we'll just leave it at that.
                  Thank you for the heads up on wire.

                  Dave

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                  • #24
                    How did the wire run that came with the 211 ??? My ran fine with it then I bought
                    the L-56 when I used it up.
                    where you located ?? you want me to mail you some to try ? PM me if you do.

                    Comment


                    • #25
                      I think I found the problem

                      I have been Mucking around with this welder giving it every chance I could before I kick it to the curb and go buy a Linc.. I have been having the same problem with not getting steady good welds and without having to stop and pick the wire from the tip when it would burn back and the barry would get stuck until it would cool and pop free. one time I had to replace the tip because it was burned into the tip. Anyhow I can't imagine this machine is that picky reguarding wire given the class level this welder is in. What I discovered is rather disapointing but hopefully the answer I and all the others have been having. If it is not the total answer then it surely has to be one of them and I hope it corrects my problem for good because the welds I would do look like total crap and made me feel like I had never welded before.

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                      Here is my welder on my cart from my previous welder.

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                      Here is all the differant wire I have bought trying to find one that it liked, 4 rolls total (1 roll I threw the box away). some in differant sizes.

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                      This is what I found to be the problem, the spool adapter. I watched the spool rotate with the trigger pulled and it would slow then speed up in the same spot sometimes stopping while the drive rollers were trying to pull more wire. I tried to tighten the drive rolls till it was at it's max and still the samething. I even changed the drive roll to the small groove with bigger wire and still the samething. then I figured there had to be something wrong with the spool holder I adjusted the tention on the adapter till it was intirely too tight and still nothing I loosened it till it was ready to fall off and still nothing better. At my wits end with this welder I figured I would really take a look at WTF is it's problem. With the other posts from others having the same/simular problem I just had to find out for myself and post what I found.

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                      This pic I took the adapter off. when I would rotate it with or without a roll on it I could feel it grab and scrape something. Humm, what could that be and why.

                      Next up what I seen.
                      Attached Files
                      Last edited by DATEC; 05-26-2015, 07:51 PM. Reason: correction made to first sentance

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                      • #26
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                        After I removed the adapter I looked and seen what looked like it was scrubbing against the back plate and had to figure out how to get the smaller adapter off. I took the other side of the welder cover off and looked and seen that it was only a long bolt that had a washer on it to hold the small adapter against the backing plate and figured that there must be a nut molded into the small adapter to keep it there (kind of a cheep design really but what ever). I seen 2 small holes next to the bolt head and figured that it was to set pins on the adapter to prevent it from turning while working o prevent it from loosening from the bolt.

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                        In this pic you can see I can't even get the metal gauge dehind the adapter because it it completely flush/tight against the backing plate.

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                        I used the jamnut trick to get the bolt loose from the adapter, there is no real room to do this from the other side because of the electronics all around and infront blocking easy access with a wrench so I went with this route. Rember you are working backwards when trying to get it loose, clockwise will loosen the nut counter clockwise will tighten it. Remove the nuts after you get it loose enough to turn with your fingers.

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                        Once loose you hold the bolt and spin the adapter after it clears the pins.

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                        Here you can see the pins that hold the adapter in place so it dosen't come loose from the bolt. Then what I seen became clear where the problem started to make since.

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                        • #27
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                          Here you can see even better the scrubbing that was preventing the spool from being smooth in its rotation hanging up and causing crappy looking welds and pitiful performance. So I looked into what the problem was and why and how to fix it. I figured it was the larger adapter rubbing as the smaller one does not rotate while welding. I put the smaller adapter into the larger one as it would be in the welder and this is what I found.

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                          The smaller adapter goes too deep into the larger one allowing it to scrub the backing plate (just stupid). no matter what you do you will never correct this without doing something like what I did. No adjustments will get rid of it, it must be corrected or it will always scrub. But what to do....

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                          Well I found a washer with the same size for the bolt and made sure it was thick enough to clear the differance between the 2 adapters but not too thick to render the pins useless (they must be engaged into the backing plate to prevent it from loosening).

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                          I installed the washer as shown and put the smaller adapter on.

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                          You can see it here and also when you get the small adapter on so far you will need to line the pins up with the holes and finish tightening using the jamnut trick, making sure it is tight bu not so tight you distort or damage anything like the small adapter.

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                          • #28
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                            Here you can see I now have a small space behind the small adapter because I can now get the metal guage behind it easly without too much slop. When I put the larger adapter on it just clears the backing plate without touching and spins freely. When I tighten the adjustment nut it goes from free wheeling without scrubbing and gets tighter as you tighten the nut and still no scrubbing. The 2 adapters touch (on the inside at the bolt hole) and as you tighten the nut they squeeze together causing resistance.

                            I think what is needed is either the larger adapter needs to be trimmed down or the smaller one needs to be longer at the area of the pins to allow for a small space like the one I shown here. Either that or a spacer needs to be installed like the one I did, I would like one alittle larger then the one I used but I wasn't going to make one so a washer will have to do. The other choice would be to coin the backing plate around the bolt area to allow the smaller adapter to stand off the plate a smidge. Either way something has to be done because these are not cheep welders and they need to run like the Blue BadAss's they are.

                            I have welded a couple (quick) small tests since and it now runs smooth and error free, no burn back or studder feeds (yet) time will tell if this corrects the problem but I think it just might.

                            Now, Miller, as for my Cap and Shirt .........

                            I hope those who have had this issue read this and gives it a try, it might be your problem too.

                            Have a nice day.

                            Dave

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                            • #29
                              Thank you for taking the time and effort to post your troubleshooting and results. The info and help on this forum is outstanding thanks to many people who care enough to help.

                              I'm picking up a new MM211 this week, and will certainly look for this issue. Hope someone from Miller reads this thread; if the problem is common maybe they can provide the optimum spacer.

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                              • #30
                                No problem it is my pleasure. I reread my first sentence of my repair post and it reads as though I have gotten rid of it for a Linc. and that would not be true I have wrote that incorrectly. If this fix I came up with does not resolve it then I will be kicking it to the curb and get a Linc. but my repair has to be proven first , I really hope it corrects it because I don't want to get a Lincoln unless push comes to shove. I also hope Miller does the nessary correction and makes it right, you can't consider your self a top tier product with these over sites in manufacturing and design. It may have been overlooked in the testing part of the assembly which should be addressed. Either way I just wanted to share what I found and hopefully it will shed some light on the problems others are having and provide them with a fix.

                                I will rewrite my first sentance.

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