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Dynasty 350 HF Troubleshooting

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  • #16
    unplug your remote, with a piece of mig wire or a paper clip jumper A & B on the machine amphenol Does the HF come on

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    • #17
      Jumpering A to B closes the contactor as if I was stepping on the pedal. The output light turns on. When HF is selected it is still intermittent. When HF is working the sparks are weak and are not arriving 700 times per second, it is much slower.

      Of note - today while welding - output from the machine stopped. When depressing my remote pedal the display was functioning and showing the output amperage (variable with pedal movement) but there was no weld output, no shielding gas (the solenoid didn't click) and the pre/post flow counters did not run. I tried moving the remote/cord looking for an internal wire problem and I couldn't duplicate it. It started working again a few minutes later.
      Last edited by wumpscut223; 12-01-2013, 01:39 PM.

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      • #18
        See the problem is that everything test fine, and your HF should be working, A & B jumpered runs the contactor, HF, Gas and such.

        Do we have a bad relay" (relays are board mounted)

        Do we have a failed relay in the pedal. possible, bad remote all together? possible.

        Bad conduit in the torch, possible, Short to frame ground? possible,

        Working on a table with a non osolated grinder plug? possible

        Primary cable hooked up wrong by using the red lead? Possible

        Just too many variables. This machine is extremely error sensitive, but its not pulling any.

        I just don't know unless it was sitting in my shop.

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        • #19
          Cruizer,

          I appreciate you playing the game with me...I can reason through most of those...

          Bad Relay? Very possible

          Bad Remote? Possible but if A to B engages HF, when the remote is working, everything should be working and it is not. So - I think this is highly unlikely.

          Bad torch conduit/short - It could be possible, but HF would be running strong on the PC7 card all the time. When HF isnt running on the torch end, the spark gap isn't running on the torch end. I think also unlikely.

          Working on a table with a non-isolated plug? I'm not sure what you mean by this. A lot of my welding is done on the ground, cement floor.

          Primary wrong? I'm not sure what you mean there.

          What relays are you concerned with? Which relay is controlling the +15VDC that goes to the PC7? I will be with the machine the next 6 hours and can check for you as needed.

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          • #20
            [QUOTE=wumpscut223;314689]Cruizer,

            I appreciate you playing the game with me...I can reason through most of those...

            Bad Relay? Very possible

            Bad Remote? Possible but if A to B engages HF, when the remote is working, everything should be working and it is not. So - I think this is highly unlikely.
            Still possible if the pedals control cable has shorted into the potententiometer leads

            Bad torch conduit/short - It could be possible, but HF would be running strong on the PC7 card all the time. When HF isnt running on the torch end, the spark gap isn't running on the torch end. I think also unlikely. If the torch cable conduit is bad you'll still get some output but hf will not travel throughit well and back feed

            Working on a table with a non-isolated plug? I'm not sure what you mean by this. A lot of my welding is done on the ground, cement floor. Alot of people weld on a outlet box, with non isolated receptacles, this mkes the table live, The machine doesn't like it much.

            Primary wrong? I'm not sure what you mean there. 3 phse machine. If you use the red on single phase, there isn't much auxillary, and bad things will occur.

            What relays are you concerned with? Which relay is controlling the +15VDC that goes to the PC7? I will be with the machine the next 6 hours and can check for you as needed

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            • #21
              Now the HF only starts the arc, doesn't matter if its AL or steel. The inverter monitors the arc after starting, so thats all your after. But you realize this right.

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              • #22
                maybe get me the correct serial# too

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                • #23
                  The correct SN is - LH500798L. I do understand that HF is not continuous 100%, but with my torch isolated from the workpiece and pedal depressed or A-B jumpered the HF spark gap should be continuious until a weld arc is sensed by the machine.

                  The outlet I plug my welder into is a NEMA6-50 wired into a subpanel for the garage. The garage subpanel has a good ground rod driven into the ground about 4 feet from the panel. The welder outlet wiring runs straight into the subpanel and is tied into the ground bus. There are no other active circuits in that panel while I'm welding.
                  Last edited by wumpscut223; 12-02-2013, 02:02 PM.

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                  • #24
                    Did you use the Black and the white wires for the welder, or did you use the red.

                    Don't really care much where the panel is, The ground rod is kinda pointless unless you know exactly what the soil conditions are

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                    • #25
                      The two hot wires from the breaker (Black and white) are hooked to the two top lugs of the switch in the welder. I am running it single phase. Measured between them is a perfect 239VAC. Measured between either one and the ground is 120VAC.
                      Last edited by wumpscut223; 12-02-2013, 04:44 PM.

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                      • #26
                        We never measure to frame ground from the hots, mostly because it means NOTHING. Anyway, just reopened the online manual, and that is correct.

                        So have a looksee at the other stuff I mentioned. I'm leaving for the day and don't answer posts at home.

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                        • #27
                          The only two items you mentioned that I couldn't check are:

                          Torch - I don't have a second one to test

                          Relays - I don't see anything externally burnt, but I don't know which I need to check. I finished most of the Troubleshooting section last night:

                          Pg 82 Schematic Test Values
                          R1,R2 =.3Ohm
                          R3,R4 = 198 and 200 ohm
                          R5 = I couldn't find where to check
                          R6 = I couldn't find where to check
                          R7 = One of the contacts here is labeled HF-XFMR (High Frequency Transformer?) I don't know how to test R7 because of the C3 capacitor in series with BUS-CTR. It appears this is a winding on T1. T1 pins are unlabeled on the PC3 board. Do you know how the pins are assigned?
                          R8 = .2Ohm
                          R9 = .3Ohm
                          R10 = .5Ohm

                          V1 = 16.1
                          V2 = I don't know where to check. I don't see violet wires as labeled. This appears to be on T2, the main torriod transformer. I don't see any violet wires leaving it.
                          V3 = 234
                          V4 = 116.6
                          V5 = 18.9
                          V6 = 18.9
                          V7 = 676
                          V8 = 25V? Why is this low?
                          V9 = 468
                          V10 = 468
                          V11 = Not checked
                          V12 = -15
                          V13 = +15
                          V15 = No Voltage This should read +24, right?
                          V16 = No Voltage This should read +24, right?
                          V17 = +15
                          V18 = +10
                          V19 = +12 and waveform is good.


                          PC1 Test Point Values
                          RC1-1 to RC1-2 = 3.7
                          RC2-1 to RC2-4 = 934
                          RC6-3 to RC6-7 = 3.7
                          RC6-5 = 14.7
                          RC6-9 = 5
                          RC6-11 = 5
                          RC6-12 = 5 - The description says this means I have a Primary error? No help codes are displayed, do you agree this should read 0? If so what should I check?
                          RC6-13 = 18.8
                          RC7-1 = 15
                          RC7-2 = 15
                          RC8-1 to RC8-2 = 15
                          RC8-3 to RC8-2 = 4.8

                          LEDS ALL OFF

                          PC3 Test Point Values
                          RC20 to RC21 = .6? This voltage is out of limits
                          RC25-1 to RC25-3 = .4 Is this OK?
                          RC26-1 to RC26-2 = 16
                          RC26-4 to RC26-5 = 16

                          PC5 Test Point Values
                          RC1 Checks = Tested as per PG 86
                          RC2 Checks = Tested as per PG 86
                          RC5 Checks = Tested as per PG 86
                          RC7-1 to RC7-2 = 15
                          RC7-9 to RC7-2 = No Wire, No volts noted - This isn't correct is it?
                          RC7-16 to RC7-10 = 935
                          RC8-1 to RC8-3 = 321.6
                          RC9-1 to RC9-6 = 16
                          RC9-3 to RC9-10 = No Wire Present (Do I need a probe that will fit deeply into the socket?)
                          RC9-4 to RC9-5 = No Wire Present
                          RC9-8 to RC9-10 = 18.8
                          RC9-9 to RC9-5 = Not Checked
                          RC10-1 = Not Checked
                          RC10-2 = Not Checked
                          RC11-1 = Not Checked
                          RC11-2 = Not Checked
                          RC11-4 = Not Checked
                          RC11-5 = Not Checked
                          RC11-6 = 25 Is this OK?

                          LED1 = OFF


                          PC6 Test Point Values
                          RC1-1 = 0
                          RC1-2 = 0
                          RC1-3 = 0
                          RC11-1 = 3.6
                          RC11-2 = 3.7
                          RC11-3 = No Wire
                          RC11-7=4.9
                          RC11-14 = 5
                          RC11-15 = 5
                          RC11-16 = 14.7
                          RC13-22 = 15
                          RC14-1 to RC-14-8 = Erratic with Amphenol A-B jumpered or not.
                          RC14-3 = 25
                          RC15-2 = 14.6
                          RC15-3 = 4.9
                          RC15-4 = 4.9
                          RC15-6 = 4.2
                          RC15-12 = 4.9
                          RC15-14 = 4.9
                          RC15-17 = 4.9 Does this seem high?
                          RC15-18 = 4.9 Does this seem high?
                          RC16-1 = +15
                          RC16-2 = -15
                          RC16-3 = =25
                          RC16-4 = -25
                          RC17-2 = 4.9
                          RC18-6 = 10
                          RC18-8 = 15

                          PC7 Test Point Values
                          RC1-1 to RC1-3 = 321.6
                          RC2-1 to RC2-2 = Erratic. No appreciable voltage, no steady ~700hz.

                          PC8 Test Point Values
                          RC1-1 to RC1-2 = 16
                          RC1-3 to RC1-6 = 4.9
                          RC1-4 to RC1-5 = 16.1
                          RC1-9 to RC1-8 = No Wire at RC1-8
                          RC2-1 to RC2-4 = 935


                          What do you think?

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                          • #28
                            Pay the piper, and take the unit in to a CST Miller tech. If they have no CST guys, take it, or send it somewhere else.

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                            • #29
                              Aww, this is just as I was beginning to have fun... I don't want to give up.

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                              • #30
                                This info is for anyone who has a similar problem. My original idea regarding the source that drives the HF board was correct. PC6 SENDS the signal to the PC7 board that tells the PC7 board how fast and when to make HF. The 700Hz signal that we couldn't find was not coming out of the PC6.

                                I replaced my PC6 board with a brand new PC6. Problem solved. The initial info from the troubleshooting/service manual was good.

                                Thanks for your help over those weeks Cruizer.

                                Case closed.
                                Last edited by wumpscut223; 01-19-2014, 05:07 PM.

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