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Miller Diversion 180 Lost power

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  • Miller Diversion 180 Lost power

    I bought a brand new Miller diversion 180 and brought it to school to test it out since they have some 220V plugs in the work shop. I welded some steel maybe a 16th thick very nice looking welds very easy to set up and easy to use. I then tried some thicker things and everything was good even up to 1/4 inch material at about 150 amps.
    I then tried to weld some aluminum (which i was horrible at) This stuff was maybe again 1/16 thick. I was welding at 70 amps.
    As I was welding I heard a popping noise from inside the machine and the 30 amp breaker blew. Strange. I reset the breaker and decided to just switch to steel. Everything seemed OK and it seemed like an isolated occurrence.
    I brought it home and showed my brother how to weld a bit. No problems. Total welding time on the machine so far was about an hour.
    I got a job from my neighbor to weld a steel railing, so I brought the machine back to school to use the 220V. I welded a bead 1.5 inches long at 150 amps and then I heard loud popping noises from the machine. So loud that people in the office came to see what was wrong. The breaker blew, I reset it but the machine was completely dead.
    It is currently being repaired.

    I am worried that I'll have problems down the line, and that my 2000 dollar investment is going to go up in smoke. I was wondering if anyone had any thoughts as to what happened inside the machine or similar experiences.
    Why would a brand new machine fail in such a manner?

    James

  • #2
    Wow, that is unfortunate. Ive never had any trouble with mine, knock on wood. Some of the guys here on the forum my have some advise or info. Post your serial number so they can better help you, Good luck.

    Comment


    • #3
      That's too bad! But since it's brand new, it sounds like warranty. Check with where you bought it.

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by ja baudin View Post
        Wow, that is unfortunate. Ive never had any trouble with mine, knock on wood. Some of the guys here on the forum my have some advise or info. Post your serial number so they can better help you, Good luck.
        Have you used yours on both 110V and 220V?
        I saw a post about another machine that switches automatically with a relay but the relay can get stuck after long disuse.
        Serial Number MD380489J if that gives people more info.

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by james.marks View Post
          Have you used yours on both 110V and 220V?
          I saw a post about another machine that switches automatically with a relay but the relay can get stuck after long disuse.
          Serial Number MD380489J if that gives people more info.

          Yes I've used it both on 110 and 220. No trouble.

          Ja

          Comment


          • #6
            You have to keep in mind that the duty cycle on the diversion series machines is very low (20% at 150 amps). So, as you crank up your amps into the 150 range, you are very limited in how long you can run the machine before over heating it.
            Last edited by snoeproe; 11-01-2013, 09:01 AM.

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by snoeproe View Post
              You have to keep in mind that the duty cycle on the diversion series machines is very low (20% at 150 amps). So, as you crank up your amps into the 150 range, you are very limited in how long you can run the machine before over heating it.
              True, it should throw the thermocoupler if the machine overheats, not throw the panel breaker. The Diversion is robust enough to recover from a shutdown. Some machines shutdown sooner than others depending on quality of input power, and may surprise an operator. When the characteristics present itself, the operator can tailor their technique to prevent exceeding duty cycle.

              So far I have not seen a dead Diversion. Hopefully when repaired it will be very dependable.

              Comment


              • #8
                I was definitely not exceeding the duty cycle, as the machine broke before I even got past 1.5 inches long bead- I'd say less than 30 sec of welding.

                The machine came back on friday and I spent 2 hours welding together the railing I was working on.

                No problems, no popping.

                The problem was a rectifier on the mains side. The technician showed me the pc1 board. One of the pins was completely fried on one of the rectifiers.

                I think it was an isolated incidence. Just like all electronics there is a percentile that companies try to exceed. But even if 99% of machines are good there is that 1 percent-which is the reason for warranties.

                Anyways if I have any problems in the future I'll be sure to post them here to let people know.

                On a side note the technician told me that you must ground the work because the high frequency starting voltages may find their way back to the internals. Thoughts?

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by james.marks View Post
                  I was definitely not exceeding the duty cycle, as the machine broke before I even got past 1.5 inches long bead- I'd say less than 30 sec of welding.

                  The machine came back on friday and I spent 2 hours welding together the railing I was working on.

                  No problems, no popping.

                  The problem was a rectifier on the mains side. The technician showed me the pc1 board. One of the pins was completely fried on one of the rectifiers.

                  I think it was an isolated incidence. Just like all electronics there is a percentile that companies try to exceed. But even if 99% of machines are good there is that 1 percent-which is the reason for warranties.

                  Anyways if I have any problems in the future I'll be sure to post them here to let people know.

                  On a side note the technician told me that you must ground the work because the high frequency starting voltages may find their way back to the internals. Thoughts?
                  Ground the work to what? That sounds suspicious to me. The cabinet is shrouded with a metal cover. And the chassis goes to utility ground. What if you are running off a generator?

                  Perhaps the technician was just trying to be helpful. The only ground my parts get is from the clamp.

                  Good to hear you got it up and running.

                  Comment

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