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Welding 2010 differential housing

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  • Welding 2010 differential housing

    I am repairing a 2010 F-350 rear differential housing that lost the pinion and the pinion wedged its self between the ring gear and the bottom of the housing. The crack is 1" long and 1/8" wide. I am trying to figure out what the best procedure(clean, grind, preheat, weld, anneal, post heat) is to complete the task. I was provided with All Stated super 275 rod, but I want to be positive and only do it once.

    I will be using a syncrowave 300 with a stinger in DC mode to weld. The material is about 1/8" thick where the damage is too the housing. it is bottom center of the housing.

    Any help will be greatly appreciated.
    Thank You

  • #2
    I don't mean to doubt your welding skills, but if you have a differential case with an open crack in it, getting it welded shut is the least of your worries. The case is now distorted. Welding it up won't undo the distortion. The chances that you'd ever be able to put that thing back together and get the gear mesh and bearing preloads correct and get them to stay that way are very, very small.

    Welding might be good practice but I think you should be looking for a new axle!


    • #3
      What the said. Scrap it and get another one


      • #4
        Originally posted by walker View Post
        What the said. Scrap it and get another one
        1. That is my risk to take. I need to post pics so others may have the same light shed on the issue.

        2. Even if I were to "Practice" on this housing, my original question has not been answered. I was told this was the site for obtaining technical information...


        • #5
          As with the others that Axle is screwed. Personally I'd just stop drill it, heat it and mig weld it. No good can come from tigging it. And its not that the axle will fail on you, its the crap that will be thrown from it killing and maiming others behind you once it does fail.


          • #6
            Most center sections these days are nodular iron I believe, I've seen people weld them with about everything, mig, tig, stick (7018, super missle, stainless, Ni55 & Ni99).

            I've welded a few including one with about a 1 1/2" chunk blown out of it.

            I'm no super expert but I've had success (after a big time degreasing) with this: 500 degree preheat, bevel as needed (well past the end of the crack), Ni99 rod making short (3/4"-1 1/2" beads) on the inside, grind anytime you think you need too, Keep the heat up all thru the welding, grind the reinforcement flush, flip it over and grind to sound weld metal and weld the outside the same way, post heat and wrap it up in fire blanket then wrap that with cheap house insulation.

            Dye pen test the next day. I trussed the worst one just to give it a better chance at a long life. Last I heard it was still ok after several years.

            I'll assume you'll check it for straigtness before installing the internals.

            Like you said it's your decision but I'd check salvage yards for a good housing. But I don't even know what you're going to use it for.

            I've shelled out a Dana 70 at highway speed and contrary to some posts the earth is still rotating on it's axis and no busloads of kindergardeners were slaughtered. Many small pieces were scattered about tho and the stench of overheated 90 weight forced some small children to run away screaming. Your experience may be much more deadly : )



            • #7
              Is that a sterling 10.25 rear end? I think you are on the right track. Did you check to see how straight it still is? I'd weld it up either way. Worst case you are just improving your skills. Pre- and post-heat seem to be the most important things. I've welded them up with mig er70 and n99 stick rod and had good results. Don't skimp on the cleaning, that will really help. Good luck. And post up your results


              • #8
                JTMcC, Thank you for your response. It is a small crack just enough to drip oil. The issue with this project it all the suspension brackets that are aftermarket. I spoke to the customer about the concern of integrity and he decided to fix this housing.

                Elvis, Thank you for your response. It is a sterling 10.25 beefy everywhere except the bottom where it cracked.

                Thank you.


                • #9
                  Clean repeat. ... cover anything that would have problems with a spot of splatter. Keep it hot before during and after. Skip the tig and reach for 7018

                  It was not made by God. But don't haul a trailer @ 75mph if it runs the least bit warmer/louder than the original or GOD may have to help fix your neck. Here in the land of rust: locked up diffs usually seize once you stop, but make for dirty shorts when they don't.


                  • #10
                    Welding 2010 differential housing

                    Good advise JTMcC. Fixed Dana's and also used a mobile company that specialized in axle repair. Seen them cut off complete spindle on Dana, weld new one on ck & Straighten also guaranty the work. Can't remember name ?
                    Also hv a good friend that has a heavy frame shop (over 35 years) he straightens axles all the time. Even seen him fine tune new ones. There repairable.


                    • #11
                      weld away...

                      That diff should be cast steel, they weld very easy, also i highly doubt the diff is bent. I have seen them gernade from heavy tuned trucks pulling 30k loads.


                      • #12
                        forgot to mention

                        That diff has a removalable center section. Think of a larger ford 9". Diff should be a dana 80. Again as long as the axle shafts pull easily, weld it up and go, likely the pinion nut came loose because someone reused the nut or failed to torque to the proper torque.


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