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add-on polarity switch

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  • add-on polarity switch

    I'm looking for a switch I could install on my 211. On the front panel. Any ideas.

  • #2
    Do you swap wire that much? It only takes about 30 seconds to do that switch. I suppose you could find a set of QDs in that amp range and put on there.


    • #3
      You'll have to pop the hood and make sure you have room on the interior.


      • #4
        Originally posted by Sandy View Post
        You'll have to pop the hood and make sure you have room on the interior.
        Wow, for $175 I would happily disassemble and reassemble the entire welder.

        Don't know if it's what you need, but here's something called a "Lincoln Polarity Switch" for $77:


        • #5
          For the extra, what minute maybe to change from reverse to straight. Installing a switch will take a couple of hours, thats 120 times + the cost of the switch that you'll be changing from gas to gasless wire. I probably wouldn't change the wire that much in my life time.


          • #6
            Don't know if it's what you need, but here's something called a "Lincoln Polarity Switch" for $77:

            That IS NOT the switch he would want to use....


            • #7
              Quickest and easiest would be a couple of tweco type female sockets hanging off the machine and tweco style male on the work lead and gun lead. Maybe need someone to make up a short piece of cable or two for you to make them lay where you want and look like what you want. There again, make sure you get good high current connectors and don't cheap out. Every single connection is a small loss and a potential hot spot.

              If you do it do it high class. You paid decent money for a miller, no sense cheezing it up with the cheapest crap you can find off e-bay.


              • #8
                The suggestions from walker and Sandy are probably the easiest and most economical. Miller4less has this 207236 [1/PK] SWITCH,POLARITY/CHANGEOVER $160.21 It is the polarity switch for the Thunderbolts up to and including the 350 synchrowave so it should be heavy enough for a 211. You could also use a double pole double throw knife switch if you can find one heavy enough(read scrounge one up) or 2 single pole double throws if that is easier to find/more economical. I see has knife switches from 30 amps to 6000 amps but it looks like you have to contact them for a quote. You'd probably want to enclose an open switch though. If you were so inclined you could build your own switch.
                As for why I would think about doing it. I do lots of stuff in advance so I don't have to **** with it in the middle of some project or my work day. I haven't looked at a 211 but some of the small migs I did look at IMO didn't have the lugs as accessible as I thought they should be for some thing I might want to change relatively often. I guess I could fix that too since it doesn't bother me if my equipment gets a little ugly from time to time as long as it is reliable and gets the job done.----Meltedmetal


                • #9
                  I guess you could install a polarity switch. It would save time in changing from solid wire DCEP to flux core DC DCEN. It you were working in production and changing wire frequently, it would be a real time saver.

                  You would still have to change wire, which can take a few minutes. I seldom use fluxcore in my MM 252 so it wouldn't be worthwhile for me to have a switch like that but I can see why one would be handy.


                  • #10
                    If it was me & I was switching wire that often I would get a second machine. You'll still have to switch the wire. Having said that the quick connects sounds like the best way.


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