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dry cut saw-- also called cold cut saw Question

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  • dry cut saw-- also called cold cut saw Question

    I am going to get a dry cut saw and I cut a lot of angles so am looking to get one that is set up for miter cutting. It should be 14" and have a quick and accurate clamping set up. There are several good saws out there, but the clamping for miter cuts is terrible. Anyone know of a good one?? I did see a video of the Evolution Rage 3 which looks great, but It looks smaller than the 14". I cut a lot of 2" at 45 deg. and not sure if that one would do it. Thanks

  • nywelder
    replied
    I know this is a little off topic but since I just had to deal with this I will share this. I have the dewalt 14 inch multi cutter cold saw(dw872). The blades on the Milwaukee can not be resharpened but the dewalt blades can be. I found this out because I bought a backup blade for 125.00 while my dewalt blade is resharpened, found out the blade i bought couldnt be resharpened just my mistake. But just beware of some of these blades cannot be resharpened

    oh and I love the saw it cuts great but the clamping system is a little off but I just take a speed square and double check the angles before I cut anything. FYI good luck
    Last edited by nywelder; 07-08-2013, 06:50 PM.

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  • FusionManiac
    replied
    Here is just one of the Google results for the Milwaukie saw
    http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...6465_200486465

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  • tackit
    replied
    Originally posted by CharleyL View Post
    We've been using the Milwaukee dry cut saws for several years now without any problems other than blade replacement. We have both the miter type saw and the 8" hand held circular saws. We found that blade life is considerably longer if the stock is clamped properly and in the case of the hand held saw, a guide is clamped to the stock for the saw to ride against. Keeping the blade from binding in the cut saves the teeth on the blade. One great benefit of using dry cut saws over plasma, torches, or abrasive saws is that the material can be picked up and used immediately even with bare hands because it doesn't heat up significantly during the cut. The finished cut is relatively smooth so very little clean-up is required. A file or light grinding to remove the bur is usually all that is necessary.

    The miter saw was a bit hard to move around both in the shop and to the jobsite, and supporting the stock was difficult when cutting miters because either the position of the stock or the angle of the saw needed to change every time the angle of cut needed to change. I bought a Delta miter saw/planer stand similar to a hand when folded for easy transport. It can sit upright like a hand truck with the saw still attached when being stored, can be wheeled to the worksite like a hand truck, and can be opened to workbench height very easily. It also loads and unloads easily from truck bed. I added an aluminum top, a 12" Lazy Susan type bearing, and a piece of 1/4" aluminum plate to hold the Milwaukee saw to the top of this stand. Now we have a saw that stores and transports very easily, can be set up and ready to cut almost instantly, and has pull-out rollers to help support the stock. When cutting miters, only the saw rotates to allow easy clamping of the stock at any angle. The Lazy Susan bearing under the saw allows the saw to easily rotate to the stock position so you don't need to keep moving the stock position for each different angle cut. The Delta stand is a bit light for this purpose, but it has held up very well for the past several years. Most of our cuts are on bar, strip, and angle stock up to about 2" X 2" and the biggest problem so far has been keeping the outboard roller height adjustments from slipping under the heavier stock weights. We generally use additional separate stock supports if the stock weight will be over 60 lbs or longer than about 10'.

    Charley
    That's a very slick set up Charley.

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  • CharleyL
    replied
    Dry Cut Metal Cutting Saws

    We've been using the Milwaukee dry cut saws for several years now without any problems other than blade replacement. We have both the miter type saw and the 8" hand held circular saws. We found that blade life is considerably longer if the stock is clamped properly and in the case of the hand held saw, a guide is clamped to the stock for the saw to ride against. Keeping the blade from binding in the cut saves the teeth on the blade. One great benefit of using dry cut saws over plasma, torches, or abrasive saws is that the material can be picked up and used immediately even with bare hands because it doesn't heat up significantly during the cut. The finished cut is relatively smooth so very little clean-up is required. A file or light grinding to remove the bur is usually all that is necessary.

    The miter saw was a bit hard to move around both in the shop and to the jobsite, and supporting the stock was difficult when cutting miters because either the position of the stock or the angle of the saw needed to change every time the angle of cut needed to change. I bought a Delta miter saw/planer stand similar to a hand when folded for easy transport. It can sit upright like a hand truck with the saw still attached when being stored, can be wheeled to the worksite like a hand truck, and can be opened to workbench height very easily. It also loads and unloads easily from truck bed. I added an aluminum top, a 12" Lazy Susan type bearing, and a piece of 1/4" aluminum plate to hold the Milwaukee saw to the top of this stand. Now we have a saw that stores and transports very easily, can be set up and ready to cut almost instantly, and has pull-out rollers to help support the stock. When cutting miters, only the saw rotates to allow easy clamping of the stock at any angle. The Lazy Susan bearing under the saw allows the saw to easily rotate to the stock position so you don't need to keep moving the stock position for each different angle cut. The Delta stand is a bit light for this purpose, but it has held up very well for the past several years. Most of our cuts are on bar, strip, and angle stock up to about 2" X 2" and the biggest problem so far has been keeping the outboard roller height adjustments from slipping under the heavier stock weights. We generally use additional separate stock supports if the stock weight will be over 60 lbs or longer than about 10'.

    Charley
    Attached Files

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  • Swamp rat
    replied
    The steelmax has a junk vise on it already been thru the THIRD one , our dealer sent two replacements and the didnt last no time then sent a second saw with the same problem. Run from them. They also didnt do anything about the two ruined New blades , if you have any movement while cutting your going to ruin the blade.
    If you can find the Milwakee , i have heard good comments on them.

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  • walker
    replied
    Milwaukee still shows it in their line up. http://www.milwaukeetool.com/power-tools/corded/6190-20

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  • scott-n-montana
    replied
    sure

    I went to three businesses today that sell Milwaukee products. Two of them had no idea either until they got on their computer and found they couldn't order one. The third business said he knew about it and said it happened about 6 months ago. Said something about them getting out of the metal cutting saws. That's what I found out just today. If you still don't believe me I guess you can go to a Milwaukee dealer and ask them..

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  • kbenz
    replied
    I have seen nothing about the Milwaukee being discontinued. Would you mind showing your source of information?

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  • dkennett
    replied
    dry cut saw-- also called cold cut saw Question

    Just checked. A number of retailers studs show the Milwaukee 6120 available.

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  • scott-n-montana
    replied
    Thanks

    Thanks for the info. The Milwaukee seems pretty solid, but they have been discontinued. I think their abrasive saws have been discontinued also. They seem to make one of the best saws so they decided to quit making it. Sounds like a good idea. There is still a few out there though on the web. Anyway - I seen the Makita - which seems to have the best fence and clamping system so I'll probably get that. 500.00 and it's only a 12", but I guess it'll do. Dewalt would probably be good, but I have their abrasive saw and the fence is time consuming when cutting lots of angles. Thanks again:

    Leave a comment:


  • kbenz
    replied
    Originally posted by tackit View Post
    For just a little more money you get a lot more saw

    http://metal.baileighindustrial.com/band-saw-bs-128m
    a bit much to carry to the jobsite though

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  • dondlhmn
    replied
    Seems like this tread is sort of wandering between cold cut and dry cut saws....hmmmm... Anyway, my $.02, since abrasive saws fall into one of those categories is that I would NEVER have one in my own shop. The abrasive saws make a huge mess, cover everything in the shop with grit and make you blow black boogers for a while after making a few cuts. Maybe I'd use one outside on a work site where nothing of mine is going to get all covered with crap and there may be a little breeze blowing to keep me from having to breathe the crap the saw throws.(besides the breeze makes the MIG and/or TIG guys swear and I just love the sound of swearing in the morning!!) Needless to say, my shop has only two saws and they are both "band" types...one dry and one wet, but the wet one is OFTEN used dry (good blade!) since I don't really like having saw drool all over the workpiece or my hands and the floor, either!!

    Also, if cutting mostly ferrous and not cutting aluminum or such, a guy COULD just get really good with an A/O cutting torch. Kind of hard to be VERY accurate with, but I have seen guys that can make cuts that look like they were made with a CNC Plasma rig!!

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  • zibby
    replied
    dry cut saw-- also called cold cut saw Question

    I have Milwaukee dry cut saw. Solid base and lock mechanism. Worth the price.

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  • tackit
    replied
    For just a little more money you get a lot more saw

    http://metal.baileighindustrial.com/band-saw-bs-128m

    Leave a comment:

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