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Lay a Syncrowave on its side to change coolant.

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  • Lay a Syncrowave on its side to change coolant.

    I've owned my SW 250 DX for about .....9 yrs or so. Starting to have problems in AC, so I thought I'd do some maintenance. I remember the sales guy telling me to change the coolant regularly. I haven't. What's the easy way to do it? Am I missing the drain plug?

  • #2
    Just undo the water line off the tig torch and run the coolant out of the tank

    Comment


    • #3
      Spark Gaps..

      Originally posted by Barnage View Post
      I've owned my SW 250 DX for about .....9 yrs or so. Starting to have problems in AC, so I thought I'd do some maintenance. I remember the sales guy telling me to change the coolant regularly. I haven't. What's the easy way to do it? Am I missing the drain plug?
      While it sounds like you are certainly overdue for a coolant change..

      my first guess on your AC problems would probably have me looking at the HF spark gaps...

      When was the last time they were cleaned and adjusted??

      I would clean and adjust them... they can get pretty crudded up and pitted in a shop environment... and performance degrades

      the info is in the manual.. free download..

      just fill in your serial # to get the right version..

      http://www.millerwelds.com/service/ownersmanuals.php

      Comment


      • #4
        Just a quick reminder, Spend a couple extra bucks and buy the Miller low conductivity coolant.

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by H80N View Post
          While it sounds like you are certainly overdue for a coolant change..

          my first guess on your AC problems would probably have me looking at the HF spark gaps...

          When was the last time they were cleaned and adjusted??

          I would clean and adjust them... they can get pretty crudded up and pitted in a shop environment... and performance degrades

          the info is in the manual.. free download..

          just fill in your serial # to get the right version..

          http://www.millerwelds.com/service/ownersmanuals.php
          Adjusted the gaps when the arc randomly dropped out. Right side was at .012, left side was at .008. I was hoping that was the only problem. Ran a couple filler rods without a glitch after adjustment.
          Also noticed, when I had the covers off, that the coolant was brownish.
          So, what I understand from the reply, just pump the coolant out?
          Thanks for the help.

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by Portable Welder View Post
            Just a quick reminder, Spend a couple extra bucks and buy the Miller low conductivity coolant.
            No skimping here.

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by Barnage View Post
              Adjusted the gaps when the arc randomly dropped out. Right side was at .012, left side was at .008. I was hoping that was the only problem. Ran a couple filler rods without a glitch after adjustment.
              Also noticed, when I had the covers off, that the coolant was brownish.
              So, what I understand from the reply, just pump the coolant out?
              Thanks for the help.
              When adjusting gaps I usually also blow the area out with compressed air as well as removing covers and blowing out the area where the transformer and other circuitry for the HF generator reside....

              There is high voltage involved and collected dust can allow HV bleed and carbon tracking... that reduces voltage, and can also degrade HF performance and affect your arc stability...
              sometimes causing intermittant problems that are hard to trace..

              often the easiest way to figure that out is to remove covers and turn the machine on in a dark room... trails of blue corona sparks can then usually be seen if you do indeed have leaking..

              just a thought...
              Last edited by H80N; 07-02-2013, 05:19 PM.

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by H80N View Post
                When adjusting gaps I usually also blow the area out with compressed air as well as removing covers and blowing out the area where the transformer and other circuitry for the HF generator reside....

                There is high voltage involved and collected dust can allow HV bleed and carbon tracking... that reduces voltage, and can also degrade HF performance and affect your arc stability...
                sometimes causing intermittant problems that are hard to trace..

                often the easiest way to figure that out is to remove covers and turn the machine on in a dark room... trails of blue corona sparks can then usually be seen if you do indeed have leaking..

                just a thought...
                Yep. Did a good blow with the dryest shop air I could muster. Still miffed about no drain plug when Miller says to change coolant REGULARLY.
                Also, noticed some "stalactites" of plastic? hanging from the transformer in the center of the machine. Normal? or did I get this thing hot?

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by Barnage View Post
                  Also, noticed some "stalactites" of plastic? hanging from the transformer in the center of the machine. Normal? or did I get this thing hot?
                  Could you post some pics?? could be either..

                  tough to tell without seeing...

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Yep. I'll post pics. As soon as I can figure out how. I can work on this in the morning.
                    thanks all.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      "Also, noticed some "stalactites" of plastic? hanging from the transformer in the center of the machine. Normal? or did I get this thing hot?"

                      Sounds to me like the sealer used on the trans.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Update

                        Waiting on a repaired board from Radwell.

                        Comment

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