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Trailblazer 250g help

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  • Trailblazer 250g help

    I just picked up a Trailblazer 250G with approximately 2000 hours on it sn KD505267. The engine runs well, but it is not making power. The man I got it from said it worked well when he got it and then it would no longer weld (properly?). He used it as a generator only for some time after that, at which point the generator ceased to function as well.

    He said he had no electrical knowledge so he took the welder to a guy who was recommended to him. I don't know what this guy's area of expertise was, but the owner went back to get his welder and the guy told him he couldn't figure out what was wrong with it. When I pulled the side covers SR2(?) was flopping around, dismounted from the panel, I assume the "repairman" removed it.

    I checked the two fuses I saw, they are both good.

    I am going to call, on Monday, to get the correct technical manual for the machine. The one that was provided with it was for a JJ machine.

    I was hoping to get a jump on the troubleshooting process this weekend while the weather is nice.

    Thanks for any and all help.





    Last edited by thomas1; 03-10-2013, 09:14 AM.

  • #2
    Also, does anyone know if faceplates are still available for this machine?

    Comment


    • #3
      Jdd

      http://www.millerwelds.com/om/o426f_mil.pdf try this link for your manual. hope it helps

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by JDD View Post
        http://www.millerwelds.com/om/o426f_mil.pdf try this link for your manual. hope it helps
        Thank you, I think that's for an earlier machine, but I think I got the correct one. That's the owner's manual, I think I need to call Miller for the tech manual.

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by thomas1 View Post
          Thank you, I think that's for an earlier machine, but I think I got the correct one. That's the owner's manual, I think I need to call Miller for the tech manual.
          Unless your a tech, its unlikely that Miller is going to get you a tech manual.

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          • #6
            Originally posted by cruizer View Post
            Unless your a tech, its unlikely that Miller is going to get you a tech manual.
            Fair enough, I guess I'll find out for sure on Monday.

            Any advice on the other issues? From searching the older posts, you seem to be the go to guy for these questions.

            Thanks

            Comment


            • #7
              On the board, C10 and R23 seem to have released their magic smoke. Definitely R23, C10 may have just had its' jacket cooked in the process.







              1. Could that be the cause of my generator/welder issues?
              2. What would have caused those components to fry?
              3. Any point in trying to solder new resistors to the board or better to just buy a new one?
              4. Am I even remotely on the right path?

              Comment


              • #8
                tuff one

                they are good machines. looks like you have a disconnect somewere? wish i could tell you more,but sometimes it's hard to figure?
                i will say this always look for someting simple. we all look for something hard to fine and normally it's simple,like broken wire or along that line.

                Comment


                • #9
                  I spoke with Miller, their first suggestion was flashing the cap to re-energize the exciter field (I think that's correct).

                  I tried flashing the cap by putting battery voltage to the capacitor while the machine was running, per their suggestion, no change.

                  Would having the brushes improperly adjusted contribute to the no power problem? Looking through the tech manual the brass sleeves should be 3/32" off of the slip rings, I don't think mine are that close, I will have to readjust them next session.
                  Last edited by thomas1; 03-14-2013, 08:33 AM.

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                  • #10
                    No field board, no go go power. It turns into a #159150, might want to replace it before you continue on. Why it blew is anyones guess, likely though its just old age and conditions where the machine was kept.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by cruizer View Post
                      No field board, no go go power. It turns into a #159150, might want to replace it before you continue on. Why it blew is anyones guess, likely though its just old age and conditions where the machine was kept.
                      I thought the man at Miller told me that board controlled the DC circuit and would not affect the AC output. Maybe I misunderstood?

                      Are you saying the current part number for the board is 159150?

                      Any reason not to attempt to fit a new resistor and cap to my existing board? Can't hurt it any more, correct?

                      Thanks for your input.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        You could try, but the board isn't all that expensive. And it won't work anyways as a linear would be damaged as well. Resistors generally don't up and blow without a direct reason. and that would be something in the control of that circuit.

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                        • #13
                          Resistor and cap replaced on the board, no change. Surprise.

                          The man at Miller mentioned the field needing to be recharged as this particular machine could lose the charge if it had sat for an extended period. He said to apply 12v to the capacitor with the unit running. I did that by running jumper wires from the battery terminals to the cap. I noticed no change after doing so.

                          I did notice that all of the terminals of the receptacles have continuity to ground, any thoughts on this?

                          Any advice on the next steps to take? I will try giving Miller a call again on Monday.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Well of course its a neutral bond circuit,ie the neutral and ground are bonded to the frame. Again no field board no go go power....

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              What's the best source for boards? Am I better off to replace other components at the same time?

                              Thank you.

                              Comment

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