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  • #16
    thats a good piece of info mr. 57, about increasing the drag angle, i bet it will help with the slag pockets while using 7014, i assume that an increase in amps is advisable, due to the amount of rod exposed in the puddle

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    • #17
      Originally posted by kevin View Post
      thats a good piece of info mr. 57, about increasing the drag angle, i bet it will help with the slag pockets while using 7014, i assume that an increase in amps is advisable, due to the amount of rod exposed in the puddle
      If you try it with 7018 you'll get a very crowned terrible looking bead, but with 6013, 7014, and 7024 it works. There's always a lot of debate on this because most pro welders in the US don't use 6013 very often and will often berate it as "junk" or "farmer rod". We're trained with 6010/6011 and 7018 and that's 99% of what we use at work so we're very comfortable with it. You don't build skyscrapers with 6013, but it does have legit uses, so it's a good rod to know how to run.

      It's very difficult to put in "noobie friendly terms" but I can make comparisons if you're somewhat proficient with 7018.

      Travel speed - move faster than you would with 7018

      Angle - run a more exagerrated drag angle than you would with 7018

      Arc length - tighter than you would with 7018. 6013, 7014, and 7024 are all considered "contact rods". It's perfectly OK to drag them along with the flux contacting the surface of base metal. With 7024 in particular there's a LOT of flux/slag, drag technique with a heavy angle is preferred or else you're just about asking for slag inclusions.

      Manipulation - smooth straight line or very light weave. If you have to make a wide weave or multiple stringers you shouldn't really be using 6013 to begin with. No exagerrated motions or whip and pause (6011 technique) ever.

      Amps- Depends on polarity you're running. I like to run 6013 on the higher/hotter end of the spectrum. it's a light penetrating rod designed to be run quickly on gauge thickness materials, Don't be scared to crank up the amps and boogie. See notes on polarity.

      Polarity - 6013 is actually intended to be run on AC or DCEN
      (straight polarity) . Perfect for light penetration and quick travel speeds. If you run them hot on DCEN, instead of DCEP (like you would for 7018) it sort of "cancels out" the crowning you would normally get from the increased drag angle and you'll still get decent penetration. You can run 6013 DCEP if you prefer, but it's one of the only rods you'll find that generally runs better DCEN. Same guidelines generally apply to 7014.

      That's as accurately as I can describe it in words, any comments/critiques are welcome.
      2007 Miller Dynasty 200 DX
      2005 Miller Passport 180

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      • #18
        welding skills for the fast fill rods has been almost terminated in most shops, due to the age of flux core, i have run miles of 7024, to be honest, i miss it, but now working for myself, i have not run into a job that really could use the 7024 rod, i like stick welding, i prerfer stick welding when the job can not break, under any circumstances, but i feel that the world is passing us rod burners by, it seams like more shops are going to the mig process more and more, i am not to hot on mig welding, its ok, it has its place,

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        • #19
          This looks good considerinbg you have no priror experience. I suggest you to keep practicing and I am sure you will learn much quicker.

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