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avoiding heat warping......a call for your collective wisdom

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  • avoiding heat warping......a call for your collective wisdom

    Howdy kids hope all are well

    I have a chunk of 1/4" plate that is 32" x 16"

    to stiffen this plate I plan to weld some parallel flat bar 1" x1/8" x 16" along the 16" direction of the plate. The flat bar will be positioned and welded so that the 1" side will be perpendicular to the 1/4" plate.

    These stiffeners will be equal spaced.

    My concern is that I will warp the plate.


    What can I do to minimize warping?
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  • #2
    Yup you are going to warp it toward the welded strips. How much weld do you need?...Bob

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    • #3
      avoiding heat warping......a call for your collective wisdom

      Stager welds , jump all around clamp it down real good and /or weld it on aluminum to draw lots of heat away. Those will all help

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      • #4
        thank for your reply, Bob

        I do not think I need much of a weld. My goal is to minimize flexing along the 16" direction. Perhaps 4 to 5 1/2" beads along each side of the 1/8" x 16 flat. That is most likely overkill. And I am thinking mig.

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        • #5
          More shorter welds, like 1/2", cooling with air between each weld. Clamp down firmly to known flat surface

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          • #6
            also if you are clamping it down, leave it clamped down and heat the whole piece evenly with torch and let cool down after should normalize all the stress from the weld beads. i know this is very time consuming but some times required if part is to be as strait as it was be for... or if this will not work for you then small beads (ie 1") long and skipping around will put much less stress on it. i never liked compressed air for cooling as well if it is a part that may crack this will not help as you cool the beads too fast for the grain structure to form correctly and may crack or fracture.

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            • #7
              Yes arc, I should have said that. I have done it on non critical welds to speed up the process.

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              • #8
                avoiding heat warping......a call for your collective wisdom

                How many bars? You could per crown the plate by clamping it down with some spacer bars on the opposite side you are welding the 1" bars. If you clamp it to a flat surface it will still warp. As stated, do not air cool with compressed air it's just not a good idea weather it's critical or not!

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                • #9
                  1-Use a pc. of thicker plate that will be strong enough without welding stifeners on it. Maybe 1/2" thick? No welding = no warping.

                  2-Clamp it flat, weld it up & straighten it after it cools. Depending on how much weld you put it may bow in both directions.

                  Edit 3 - Use thicker stiffeners and less of them.

                  What are you trying to accomplish? 1/8x1 isn't exactly robust for stiffening.
                  Last edited by MMW; 01-20-2013, 07:55 AM.

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                  • #10
                    I would figure out how strong/stiff the finished product needs to be, and go from there.

                    The less you weld on it, the less it's going to warp.

                    For a 16" long stiffener, I think I'd try to get away with maybe four 3/8" long tacks 4" on center, and allow everything to cool off / equalize as much as possible between each tack weld.

                    If you find that you're getting a crown on the top (opposite side from where you're welding) halfway through, I might run a bead on the top side to pull it back straight (or even convex) before finishing the welding on the stiffener side (which will pull it back). Then grind off the bead on the top side after you're all done.

                    If you run into problems, Google "flame bending" (which can also be done with a welding machine).
                    Last edited by Helios; 01-20-2013, 07:17 AM.

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                    • #11
                      Patience!

                      This plate is too small to deal with restraightening. Just tack the pieces in place, then jump/scatter weld it 4 times, go get a beer and drink it slowly, then come back and weld 4 more times, then go get a glass of water, then weld 4 more times, and get another beer......

                      And 3/8" welds aren't really welds, they are big tacks and prone to breaking if these bars are really necessary.

                      Also make sure you weld on both sides of the flat bar to keep that straight as well.

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                      • #12
                        Just a thought. You could drill some holes through top where the braces will be..maybe two or three per brace. From the bottom, weld the braces on the ends only with short welds and then spud weld through holes in top of plate. I would also use thicker than 1/8 " for braces
                        Last edited by monte55; 01-20-2013, 09:23 AM.

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                        • #13
                          You guys are funny, the guy has not even said what this plate is for and you are already saying his design is insufficient. How the heck do you guys know that 1/8 x 1 bar is too small for the task?

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by go2building View Post
                            How many bars? You could per crown the plate by clamping it down with some spacer bars on the opposite side you are welding the 1" bars. If you clamp it to a flat surface it will still warp. As stated, do not air cool with compressed air it's just not a good idea weather it's critical or not!
                            Oh have you not been able to keep a welded piece flat using air to speed the process? Why would this not be alright to do on a non critical piece?

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                            • #15
                              op: more info, things I have learned, & thanks to all that have responded!

                              The overall project is a cnc device.

                              It is my intention, once this frame is assembled, to Blanchard Grind the surfaces (so that they will be in the same plane) that the linear bearing rails will be attached to.

                              although, I do not need this robust design to accommodate the operation of this device (can't hurt though) I do need to have the sides stiff to accommodate the grinding process.

                              Please see the rocker indicators (in blue) in my sketch. This is the motion that I am trying to avoid.

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