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  • welding alloy 20

    My customer has a few parts that need to be welded. They are Alloy 20 and I am wondering if anybody has any experience with this material. I usually weld their valve bodies and flanges which are stainless 316 alloy. I think I should be using stainless 320 filler metal, but not sureClick image for larger version

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  • #2
    welding alloy 20

    Originally posted by bababouy View Post
    My customer has a few parts that need to be welded. They are Alloy 20 and I am wondering if anybody has any experience with this material. I usually weld their valve bodies and flanges which are stainless 316 alloy. I think I should be using stainless 320 filler metal, but not sure[ATTACH]31243[/ATTACH]


    I don't have experience welding alloy 20, but I do have experience in asking google 'welding alloy 20'....see link below from Carpenter, who should have more detailed data.
    For this kind of deal you really need the customer to specify weld process and procedure for everybody's backside protection.


    http://www.cartech.com/techarticles.aspx?id=1830

    'Fully austenitic, highly alloyed grades like Type 310 (25Cr-20Ni), Type 330 (18.5Cr-35Ni-1.25Si) and 20Cb-3 stainless require special considerations to avoid hot cracking. Since ferrite is not an option, welding consumables should contain low residuals including sulfur, phosphorus and silicon. For that reason, a special low-residual filler metal, E/ER320LR (20Cb-3LR) was developed by Carpenter specifically for 20Cb-3 stainless.'

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    • #3
      Originally posted by dave powelson View Post
      I don't have experience welding alloy 20, but I do have experience in asking google 'welding alloy 20'....see link below from Carpenter, who should have more detailed data.
      For this kind of deal you really need the customer to specify weld process and procedure for everybody's backside protection.


      http://www.cartech.com/techarticles.aspx?id=1830

      'Fully austenitic, highly alloyed grades like Type 310 (25Cr-20Ni), Type 330 (18.5Cr-35Ni-1.25Si) and 20Cb-3 stainless require special considerations to avoid hot cracking. Since ferrite is not an option, welding consumables should contain low residuals including sulfur, phosphorus and silicon. For that reason, a special low-residual filler metal, E/ER320LR (20Cb-3LR) was developed by Carpenter specifically for 20Cb-3 stainless.'
      I originally googled alloy 20 and found what I needed as far as what wire to use. I was asking if anyone had any experience welding with this material and if there were any things that I should know ahead of time. Thanks for posting your research.

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      • #4
        I welded it years ago putting flanges onto 3" and 4" Carp 20 pipe. It welded just like Stainless, nothing different...Bob
        Bob Wright

        Spool Gun conversion. How To Do It. Below.
        http://www.millerwelds.com/resources...php?albumid=48

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        • #5
          Thanks Bob, I assumed that it welded the same, I just wanted to make sure. Last year the same customer had the same valve bodys made out of titanium. So I asked around and decided that I had finallly gained enough knowledge that I would go ahead and try it. No biggie just make sure there is plenty of argon around the weld. Now I do the titanium valve bodies like they are stainless.

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          • #6
            In a few days or probably next month, I'll be able to post some new pictures and helpful information about welding alloy 20. My boss just won a bid on about 700 feet of small bore socket weld alloy 20 piping. The best I recall from last time I welded any alloy 20, it welds a lot like duplex stainless. Turn up, go fast, watch your interpass temperature (keep it below 350 fahrenheit between passes). Use plenty of argon flow. If you have to slow down much, just downslope out of it and wait for it to cool. It doesn't feed well when it's hot and it's not good to try to carry too much metal or stuff the filler to it. Pictures to follow some time soon.

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            • #7
              Nice.. This post was dragged out of the archives. I forgot that I was looking for advice on alloy 20 back in 2013.

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              • #8
                Originally posted by bababouy View Post
                Nice.. This post was dragged out of the archives. I forgot that I was looking for advice on alloy 20 back in 2013.
                Well how did it go? Weld ok?...Bob
                Bob Wright

                Spool Gun conversion. How To Do It. Below.
                http://www.millerwelds.com/resources...php?albumid=48

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                • #9
                  It's going great. Instead of turning up and going faster like I do with duplex 2205, I found it better to turn it down about 10 amps cooler than 316L and still travel pretty fast. The Alloy 20 is runny and gets hot quicker than duplex, 304, or 316L, but at least the filler flows good and the puddle follows my arc. I am enjoying making these welds, and it shows (I made a LOT of them in a short time). Amperage: about 72 amps. Filler: 3/32" ER320LR. 1/8" thoriated tungsten, #8 cup with a large gas lens. 40 CFH of Argon.

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