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MM 211 Concerns

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  • MM 211 Concerns

    I finally unboxed my MM211mvp, and cleared my old HH135 off my welder stand, set everything up and gave it a test drive last night. I only had a little bit of time by the time I got everything up and running, but I ran across a couple of issues:
    • I've had _no_ luck with the autoset. I loaded the spool of Hobart .030" ER70S6, set the knob to .030 and I can't get the weld to lay flat to save my life. I get fairly nice tacks, but when I run a bead it looks like I'm building volcanos (they're smooth, not like if I wasn't getting gas flow, but have a pronounced hump in the middle):

      In this pic I started (from top right to bottom left) with it set to the middle of the 1/8" range (it's 1/8" wall box), then tried it at the top of the 1/8" setting, then finally at the 3/16" setting (you can see it burned through at the end). I have good penetration, doesn't seem to be the lack of surface prep (that piece only has a few rust spots on it, it's nowhere near as bad as it looks in the pic, I cut a weld apart and it's not porous...), it just sits high like that. I'm hoping that I'm doing something wrong because if not that kind of thing pretty much makes the autoset useless (FWIW, I've made exactly the same part before with the HH135 and have no problem laying down a nice flat bead, even with the settings off I can adjust with gun travel...)
    • I think the flow meter might be wonky- I'm used to setting it somewhere _slightly_ higher (one or 2 ticks) than I need, pulling the trigger and getting exactly the gas flow that I need. this one, with a full, new bottle (that is reading the correct pressure...) with it set to maybe 21-22- pull the trigger and it drops to 11 (on my other flow meters i think I'd normally see about 17-18), and when I let go it doesn't always come back to the original setting. Weirder for me, if I close the bottle valve and quickly pull the trigger it will jump past 30 when I let go, and if I do it a couple of times will come pretty close to pegging the flow gauge before it it finally drops from the bottle being closed. Anyone see anything like that before?
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    Last edited by Silverback; 12-27-2012, 10:45 AM.

  • #2
    It appears you are dragging the puddle, if so try pushing.

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    • #3
      On my 211 the autoset has a mind of its own at times, it works better on 14 and 16ga. metal. It will just take time working with it, and there are some guys on here that just will not use the auotset it is just a pain in the butt..

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      • #4
        Forget the auto-set and set it manually, and see what you get. If need be, try the flow-meter from the Hobart on it to see if that helps with the sheilding gas prob.

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        • #5
          Auto Set sucks. I have a 211 and didn't use the feature after 5 minutes. Play with the settings, push the puddle, less wfs, gun angle is too extreme, and a bit slow. Better to lay a bead in a fillett joint vs flat as well. You can't compare beads from a 135 with the 211 either. Always "crack the valve" on the tank before hooking up a new bottle too, possibly clogged, doesn't take much. Hope you figure it out its a great machine!!

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          • #6
            I only use the auto set on 3/16" and 1/4" stuff. Otherwise it lays down too much wire.

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            • #7
              Yep, use the chart and manual settings. On mine if I use AutoSet it runs way too hot and burns right through the work piece. I get pretty much what you are seeing using AutoSet and it's because my travel speed is to high. Can't be helped because slowing down burns right through. And I'm talking 1/8 to 3/16 materials.

              This is exactly why I think Miller should release a chart or spreadsheet formula for us 211 owners so we can set voltage and IPM better when not using AutoSet. AutoSet sucks and the increments on the dial don't really tell us what we need to know.

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              • #8
                Originally posted by Great White TJ View Post
                On my 211 the autoset has a mind of its own at times, it works better on 14 and 16ga. metal. It will just take time working with it, and there are some guys on here that just will not use the auotset it is just a pain in the butt..
                Originally posted by kvwall View Post
                I only use the auto set on 3/16" and 1/4" stuff. Otherwise it lays down too much wire.
                Originally posted by Thrutraffic View Post
                Yep, use the chart and manual settings. On mine if I use AutoSet it runs way too hot and burns right through the work piece. I get pretty much what you are seeing using AutoSet and it's because my travel speed is to high. Can't be helped because slowing down burns right through. And I'm talking 1/8 to 3/16 materials.
                LOL, I find it more than a little funny that all 3 of you seem to indicate that it works or doesn't work in different ranges. I guess at least I'm not the only one.


                I would say that a quick guess on my HH135 and 95% of the time I can adjust with travel speed/weave, where the autoset setting isn't close enough for me to do that makes it a totally worthless feature. I'm betting it's programmed somehow into the hardware, I wonder if you can reprogram it.

                Originally posted by fabricator View Post
                It appears you are dragging the puddle, if so try pushing.
                Originally posted by Packers To Super Bowl !! View Post
                Auto Set sucks. I have a 211 and didn't use the feature after 5 minutes. Play with the settings, push the puddle, less wfs, gun angle is too extreme, and a bit slow.
                huh... I find it a little disconcerting that both of you think I'm dragging the puddle. I was pushing, probably at about 5-7* from perpendicular to the work piece, so I doubt to extreme either (extreme gun angle pushing usually results in a lot of splatter, I got literally _none_ which did really impress me)

                Better to lay a bead in a fillett joint vs flat as well. You can't compare beads from a 135 with the 211 either.
                Why can't I compare beads between the 2. I understand that they're different welders and will have a different feel, but this is that this is just wrong.

                Always "crack the valve" on the tank before hooking up a new bottle too, possibly clogged, doesn't take much.
                Cracked the bottle, attached the regulator/guages, cracked it again, attached the hose, cracked it again, attached the hose to the back of the welder... I think I flushed the lines out about as well as they're going to get


                Hope you figure it out its a great machine!!
                Besides the problems listed so far I'm pretty impressed... with the HH135 I always felt like I had to work the weld in there, like I never had quite enough power to really get it fully whetted. I'm not sure that I could do anything to get that welder to burn through on something 1/8" or thicker.

                This thing felt like a proper tool, like it had power to spare and the arc would do what I wanted it to do, it's just the auto set settings were wrong.

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                • #9
                  I'd give the 14ga dial range a try. I haven't had an opportunity to try an auto-set unit, but I suspect input voltage influences the accuracy of Auto-set dial settings. Meaning if Miller designed the Auto-set feature around a 230 volt input, and your supply is 240V or higher, the Auto-set dial setting could be hotter then advertised.

                  Also keep in mind that different joint designs require different output power levels. For example, a butt joint constructed out of 1/8" is going to require a lower voltage and wire speed setting then a T joint.

                  What type of oscillation if any were you using?

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                  • #10
                    ...Miller should release a chart or spreadsheet formula for us 211 owners so we can set voltage and IPM...
                    The chart is in the owner's manual; both the paper version, and the PDF. 4 pages' worth, IIRC.

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                    • #11
                      I wish I would have read this thread first

                      Then I wouldn't have had to start a new post. It looks like I'm not the only one who believes that the auto settings on the MM211 run too hot!

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                      • #12
                        You can't expect an auto-set feature to work as well as experience. Auto-set can't take into account for joint design, position, or skill of the operator. I believe the auto set was more to get more people into welding that don't have experience.

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                        • #13
                          Country beat me to it. Well said. It is not possible to have a magic button that can factor every single aspect into its calculations. Just dial it in manually like everybody else and you will be off and running.

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                          • #14
                            Yes, but....

                            Originally posted by Country Metals View Post
                            You can't expect an auto-set feature to work as well as experience. Auto-set can't take into account for joint design, position, or skill of the operator. I believe the auto set was more to get more people into welding that don't have experience.
                            ....this makes good sense.....until you think about the fact that if the auto set was designed for people "that don't have experience", then what happens when they set it and continue to burn through their tubing and can't get good welds when the machine is set as per the instructions???!!! Talk about frustrating to the newbie home welding hobbyist! You pay a premium for an "auto set" feature that after ruining a bunch of metal you learn that the auto set feature really doesn't work well and that you have to learn to set the appropriate wire speed - voltage - metal thickness - type-of-weld combination through trial and error experience. OK, I accept that, but why did Millermatic build a welder that doesn't work as advertised? I would have rather saved the money and bought a 220 V unit without a worthless feature. If I'm forced to learn the machine by trial-and-error anyway, I'd rather have not paid for the auto set!

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                            • #15
                              Can anyone tell me if these 2 regulators are compatible? The first is the one that came with the welder that is acting funny, the second is one that I found in my pile of stuff that I'm not sure what it came from/was originally for (it was in the box with an ebay purchase):

                              Attached Files

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