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help with my trailers lighting?

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  • #16
    I was off because I forgot these were LED's.

    If they work properly at battery and not connected on trailer, what vehicle will this be connected to? Just saying because some vehicles have fuses built into just trailer lights. I have seen them in the dash and at the tail end of the vehicle.

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    • #17
      What make, model ,and year is the vehicle you are connected to ? On some newer vehicles, the LEDs will screw with the pulling vehicle's electronics and not work properly. The LEDs don't pull as much current as incandesants, and the computer will think the bulbs are burned out or unplugged. There are adapter boxes to fix this problem, though. Don't know if this is true or not.

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      • #18
        your 3 wires are same as the original bulb you replaced. as jiganitor mentioned, if you flow the current the wrong way a led won't work, if they had to be used with a resistor and you did not, they might be burned.

        Were the previous bulbs working in all modes?

        i still have a doubt on the ground...

        image is a thousand words ...here is a basic one. (very very basic ;o) )
        Attached Files

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        • #19
          Originally posted by BD1:296980
          What make, model ,and year is the vehicle you are connected to ? On some newer vehicles, the LEDs will screw with the pulling vehicle's electronics and not work properly. The LEDs don't pull as much current as incandesants, and the computer will think the bulbs are burned out or unplugged. There are adapter boxes to fix this problem, though. Don't know if this is true or not.
          Its. A 97 Chevy silverado. I haven't found a fuse dedicated to the towing lights.
          .
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          • #20
            The regular. Lights worked. But I wanted to upgrade the lights to led. Am I missing something?
            .
            Miller Bobcat 225NT onan
            Millermatic 211
            Spoolmate 100
            (Retapped to fit regular mig tips)
            Work better & less parts to stock.
            Miller 130xp
            T/A Dragster 85 (portability 11 pounds)
            Oxygen/Acetylene torch set 50'
            2. 4-1/2" grinders
            1. 9" grinder
            14" Makita chop saw
            1/2" Aircat impact gun 900#

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            • #21
              Originally posted by Meltedmetal:296969
              So if you remove a lamp assembly and jumper it to a battery . white to neg, then either the brake or the running lights will light but not both together?
              If I'm direct to the battery. It all work's. Like its supposed to. My last option would be to take it to a trailer manufacturing comp. To figure it out but that's going to cost me $70. I rather go back to the old bulb style.
              .
              Miller Bobcat 225NT onan
              Millermatic 211
              Spoolmate 100
              (Retapped to fit regular mig tips)
              Work better & less parts to stock.
              Miller 130xp
              T/A Dragster 85 (portability 11 pounds)
              Oxygen/Acetylene torch set 50'
              2. 4-1/2" grinders
              1. 9" grinder
              14" Makita chop saw
              1/2" Aircat impact gun 900#

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              • #22
                Have you c/k the volts at the back of the trailer? If the volts drop lower then 10 or lower volts most LED light won't work. Hope you get it soon.

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                • #23
                  Thanks I'll check tomorrow morning
                  .
                  Miller Bobcat 225NT onan
                  Millermatic 211
                  Spoolmate 100
                  (Retapped to fit regular mig tips)
                  Work better & less parts to stock.
                  Miller 130xp
                  T/A Dragster 85 (portability 11 pounds)
                  Oxygen/Acetylene torch set 50'
                  2. 4-1/2" grinders
                  1. 9" grinder
                  14" Makita chop saw
                  1/2" Aircat impact gun 900#

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                  • #24
                    help with my trailers lighting?

                    Been awile since I've worked on trailer wiring but I think I ran into the same problem in switching to led. If I remember correct it was the led lamp that was wrong? I think there two different types of led. Drove me crazy but I think I got a different style led or went back to standard?? I think got different led lp. But sorry just to long ago to remember. I'd look into the lamp 1st.

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                    • #25
                      do you have a GM truck?

                      My truck did the same thing when I had a travel trailer. You may need a box capable of combining the outputs of your truck and using a diode setup so the positive from your brake lights and running lights doesn't go back in and feed eachother. Basically, only need 3 positives for the trailer. Modern truck lights us 4 positives. That is why a high mount brakelight doesn't flash when someone uses a turnsignal. That is why you need a combo box with diodes or the highmount brake light may turn into a turnsignal also.
                      Last edited by deafman; 11-28-2012, 09:05 PM.

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                      • #26
                        help with my trailers lighting?

                        Now that I think more about it, I added a 2nd red lamp and split brake and turn lamps. Just went with 4 rear red lamps and wired the two stop lamps together and wired one left turn and one right turn. In my simple mind it was easiest fix and I figured more lights the better.
                        Just a thought.

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                        • #27
                          Originally posted by Country Metals View Post
                          I have never heard of a 3 wire system, only a 4 wire system and I have owned over 8 trailers in my short 15 years. There is flat 4, round 4, round 5, now flat 5, round 6, round 7, soon round 8, air brakes. You need Ground, Blink, Brake, Running. No system that I have ever worked on can have blink and brake on the same wire because they would conflict each other.

                          That is probably why the lights don't work when connected on the trailer, and why they do work when blink/brake are disconnected. You are having a conflict on the towing vehicle.
                          Everthing I have ever worked on had blink&brake on the same wire. What makes them work right is the switch at the steering wheel. the brake wire powers the switch and the flasher powers the blink.
                          Bob
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                          • #28
                            Originally posted by Bob Miller View Post
                            Everthing I have ever worked on had blink&brake on the same wire. What makes them work right is the switch at the steering wheel. the brake wire powers the switch and the flasher powers the blink.
                            Bob
                            Here is the thing about trailers. I had one trailer a few years ago that we were going to use on a friends truck. Lights didn't work, but they did work on my truck. Chevy vs Ford here, nothing fancy. NO LED's either. We looked under the trailer and found that the flat 4 ran to a junction box near the axle. Opened it up, everything was fine. Followed every wire to the bulbs and everything came up correct. So we did the next thing logically, we connected another truck. My truck chevy - worked, friend 1 truck ford - did not work, friend 2 ford - did work. Cut and played with wires, couldn't figure it out, hooked up a fourth truck, friend 3 chevy - did not work... OMG WTH! Called my garage that is always good about these things to come over, tested all wires, everything is supposed to work. Does/Doesn't its a coin flip.... We ended up using a different trailer and wasted almost a whole day. Still never figured out why the lights only worked on certain vehicles. Ground was not the problem. And truck wiring worked on all 4 trucks because they all worked on another trailer.

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                            • #29
                              Originally posted by Country Metals View Post
                              Here is the thing about trailers. I had one trailer a few years ago that we were going to use on a friends truck. Lights didn't work, but they did work on my truck. Chevy vs Ford here, nothing fancy. NO LED's either. We looked under the trailer and found that the flat 4 ran to a junction box near the axle. Opened it up, everything was fine. Followed every wire to the bulbs and everything came up correct. So we did the next thing logically, we connected another truck. My truck chevy - worked, friend 1 truck ford - did not work, friend 2 ford - did work. Cut and played with wires, couldn't figure it out, hooked up a fourth truck, friend 3 chevy - did not work... OMG WTH! Called my garage that is always good about these things to come over, tested all wires, everything is supposed to work. Does/Doesn't its a coin flip.... We ended up using a different trailer and wasted almost a whole day. Still never figured out why the lights only worked on certain vehicles. Ground was not the problem. And truck wiring worked on all 4 trucks because they all worked on another trailer.
                              Loose wire IN the trailer plug is my guess...or spread blade socket.
                              MillerMatic 211 Auto-set w/MVP
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                              • #30
                                Greetings,

                                You have the brake/turn lights working correctly.. yes?

                                The running or driving lights work off the same circuit/wire the TAG light is on.

                                You will want to tie both black leads from the LEDs (L&R) together, then to the same wire that is feeding the tag light. This is the common source voltage for the driving/tag and parking lights .

                                FYI you could make this connection by splicing into the wire at back of the tag light socket, it may be brown do not remember.

                                The only other item I would like to point out, if the tag light socket has one wire that's what you will want to tie into, very easy.

                                However if it has two wires, one will be hot and the other will be ground, you want the wire that is the hot lead. Very simple to determin, nick both wires and touch the wire from the LEDs, one will light them and the other will not. This happens because the voltage is going through the tag light bulb, that causes the voltage to drop as it passes through the bulb and the LEDs will not light.


                                Brake and turn light functions are controlled by the turn signal lever, that connects to a switch in the column.

                                At the trailer plug you have 4 connections;
                                1 ground
                                1 left turn/brake
                                1 right turn/brake
                                1 tag/driving/parking

                                Hope this will help, you just do not have the driving/tag/parking tied together. No need to pay someone 70 bucks that's a rip..
                                Greg

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