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Basic setup tips MM211

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  • Basic setup tips MM211

    Hi all,

    I have a decent idea of what I need to adjust but would like to get your feedback from experience. Spent some time over the holiday playing with my new MM211 and had a little wire jamming here and there. Adjusted the tension roller a bit - and plan on checking it's at the 'starting point of "3"' per the manual later. What do you recommend/find for an .030 wire on 1/8" or 1/4" pieces - run on auto set as well as manual (can't see a diff). I had an odd issue where the gun had come out of the machine a bit - must have not tightened that down enough during initial setup - corrected.

    General questions - using a flux core/gasless for right now - will the junk/spatter that builds up in the nozzle and general heat add to some jamming/wire feed stops? The NOZ dip - recommended? After a few jams/corrections I set the machine away more so the cable was straight as possible - not that it was coiled up to begin. Also made sure the spool knob wasn't cranked down to pinch the wire roll and it was free spinning.

    Planning on dropping off a 40# tank for C25 fill this week - while at GTS-Welco will pick up some NOZ dip - anything else recommended while I'm at a legitimate supply store?

    Thanks alll,

    John

  • #2
    Make sure as you said the tension set on the wire spool not too tight. Using the torch while keeping its hose straight as possible should help. Make sure the spool of wire is being fed counter clockwise, with the wire coming off the bottom of the spool and going into the tensioner and rollers. A large amount of slag build up in the nozzle could cause feed problems. Have you changed the polarity on the machine to run that flux core wire?

    Comment


    • #3
      Plugged mine in out of the box. Changed nothing with feeder. Has run two spools of wire so far. No problems. One box .030 and one box of 0.35. I hear .030 is better in this machine and think that's probably true.

      Have only run 240 V so far.

      Do you need a nozzle for FCAW? There's no shield gas.

      Auto set feature seems to run extremely hot. For thin stuff I manually set. I only use auto for ~3/16 and up.

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      • #4
        Originally posted by Cgotto6 View Post
        . A large amount of slag build up in the nozzle could cause feed problems. Have you changed the polarity on the machine to run that flux core wire?
        Thx Cgotto6 - polarity is set correctly, a lot of spatter from the flux - might be a little hot too with autoset - adding to that? first time I ran it was manual - no issues - will try some more - pretty sure I have the tension roller light.

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by Thrutraffic View Post
          Have only run 240 V so far.

          Do you need a nozzle for FCAW? There's no shield gas.

          Auto set feature seems to run extremely hot. For thin stuff I manually set. I only use auto for ~3/16 and up.

          Thx Thrutraffic - I have yet to run 240 - maybe I'll do that next just - well b/c I can! Unsure about the need of the nozzle - but perhaps I misspoke - meant the tip within the larger exterior nozzle. I didn't have the issue with it on manual - perhaps onto something there - with the heat....thx for the feedback.

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          • #6
            Auto-Set does not work with Fluxcore wire- well it will "work" but it is not designed for Fluxcore- the machine is trying to Auto Set for solid wire and gas.

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            • #7
              Originally posted by Broccoli1 View Post
              Auto-Set does not work with Fluxcore wire.
              well that's great information! and gives me some confidence in what I felt too - just wasn't sure if it was 'real'. So - in 'not working' would that be effected with too much heat, spatter etc? not necessarily feeding the wire, right? or....
              thx

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              • #8
                Originally posted by jfk92 View Post
                well that's great information! and gives me some confidence in what I felt too - just wasn't sure if it was 'real'. So - in 'not working' would that be effected with too much heat, spatter etc? not necessarily feeding the wire, right? or....
                thx
                Exactly- Solid wire is SOLID

                Fluxcore wire is hollow, with the Flux inside.

                The manual doesn't exactly state that the AS feature is only for Solid wire but if you look at the Diagram on page 28 it has an Example of .035 wire and at the bottom it reads "use 75/25 Argon/CO2 gas."

                AS is only for .030 and .035 Solid wire. If you want to use .023 solid wire or Fluxcore then you'll need to switch the machine to manual mode.

                Comment


                • #9
                  If you get into aluminum with a spool gun, AS won't work either.

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                  • #10
                    To much drive roll pressure can deform fluxcore wire, making it difficult for the wire to feed through the round bore of the contact tip. The best way to help eliminate this issue is by replacing the smooth V groove drive roll with a knurled (serrated) V grooved drive roll. The teeth is the knurled V grove will grip the wire better the a smooth V groove, allowing you to set the drive roll pressure arm tension much lower.

                    When running fluxcore wire , I remove the brass nozzle, and install a fluxcore nozzle. The fluxcore nozzle really isn't a nozzle, It more of protective sleeve for the tip adapter.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Flux core (innershield) wire vs. solid. Flux core generally uses less voltage/amps than the same size in solid. This means you should turn the machine down. Polarity is usually also different between the two. Solid= work lead to - & gun to +. You would switch for flux core most of the time, gun to -. Knurled v-groove rollers work better for flux core as stated above. Smooth v-groove for solid. Flux core uses a longer wire stickout than solid. About 1" for fux, 1/2" for solid. Keep the nozzle on or get a flux core nozzle when running flux core to protect the diffuser. I like splatter spray more than nozzle dip. They sell it at GTS-Welco. No need to soak it, just spray it once in awhile. Get yourself a bunch of extra tips & also a torch tip cleaner to clean your mig tips. No reason to throw them away until they get worn. Don't be afraid to remove the nozzle & clean it with pliers or a screwdriver.

                      When changing rolls of wire it's a good idea to blow out the gun with compressed air.

                      The above are just generalizations. Check the wire mfg. specs & the door chart is always a good starting point.
                      Last edited by MMW; 11-27-2012, 04:53 AM.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Great tips all.

                        I plan on getting a knurled drive roll - I'll search the miller website, cyberweld etc. As per that - I read the manual yesterday afternoon and noticed the 'recommended starting point' for the drive roll pressure arm was a setting of "3" - out of "4". I had mine at "1" even less, possibly 1 1/2 as well. So I went home and cranked it down - and it felt like it took about 300 cranks (exageration) to get it down to the "3" - was not comfortable with that much - might bring it back up to say - "2" next time I run it - but plan on getting a knurled drive roll anyway.

                        Splatter spray vs. noz dip - good to know - may just pick up both. Found myself brushing the nozzle gently with a wire brush between runs to get the junk out. also using some mig welding pliers gently.

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                        • #13
                          With a knurled drive roll you will use less tension. I usually set the tension just past the slippage point. I always try to keep the gun as straight & untwisted as reasonably possible.

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                          • #14
                            Your 211 is a great welder and the manual for this welder will get you whwre you need to be to set this welder up.If you are useing the Brass nozzle that came with your welder for flux wire?? then you need to change it to the black nozzle for flux wire.As for your drive roll if you open your door on the the welder down on the bottom you will find the part number for the Knurled drive roller. Auto Set will not work with flux wire, and the Auto Set when used with Gas, this setting is something you will have to work with it is not set in stone for the settings.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by jfk92 View Post
                              Great tips all.

                              I plan on getting a knurled drive roll - I'll search the miller website, cyberweld etc. As per that - I read the manual yesterday afternoon and noticed the 'recommended starting point' for the drive roll pressure arm was a setting of "3" - out of "4". I had mine at "1" even less, possibly 1 1/2 as well. So I went home and cranked it down - and it felt like it took about 300 cranks (exageration) to get it down to the "3" - was not comfortable with that much - might bring it back up to say - "2" next time I run it - but plan on getting a knurled drive roll anyway.
                              If you have the tension too light that could lead to slippage which could also be contributing to your spatter problem. There is a correct tension that you must balance. Nobody can say what that may be as wire, rollers, and the tensioner all vary.

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