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Please help A/C trouble

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  • #16
    Don't forget to turn on the argon bottle.

    Comment


    • #17
      Originally posted by Matrix View Post
      Not to be a constant nitpicker but it's zirconium, not zinc. Like cubic zirconium, the stuff fake diamonds are made of.
      .
      Matrix, no nit picking intent taken on your part it's the auto spell on this silly iPad thing ... But I'll leave that for another forum

      morning brings new information ...Gts manager admits to having some bad argon from about six or seven months ago the one thing I did not do was swap argon tanks. Going to pick up zirc blended electrodes anyway...

      other comments and suggestions are appreciated and all good points and observations... It's Aluminum, it was clean when I started, various cups used, electrodes set up properly and arc length... Well I tried close far you name it... I tried max clean/ penetration balance, low med and high frequency starts all of it great points men! Thanks!! But this may just be bad argon to the shop to try it out

      Comment


      • #18
        Foiled by contaminated argon

        Ok men, first pic should be two light up attempts with new tank... Short one is amps at 70, longer one is 90... Not perfect but good enough with green electrodes and the time I have this morning... Looks like it was the gas not the machine or the man per say just needed to root cause a little deeper!

        Looks like you guys like pics too so... The next one should be my 180sd, the one after that is my welding corner in the shop which my wife thinks is her garage but as cold weather closes in I will have to make room for her car, and the last shot is a yummy primatis samwich from the steel city- I though it was appropriate for the forum and Asa payback to you guys for ready and posting replies!

        Sadly i lost the job but dang it I learned a lot and now I have this forum in my bag of tools and tricks... I'll be ready for the next one!

        looks like the pics are turned around and they don't resize but you guys will get the idea!
        Attached Files
        Last edited by Jorge; 10-19-2012, 08:37 AM.

        Comment


        • #19
          Ewww .... sour kraut?
          That's just sick and wrong, dude.....
          Blech ....

          ;^)

          Glad you got your issue sorted out.

          Comment


          • #20
            cruizer

            Originally posted by cruizer View Post
            which 180SD is it, a serial# would be handy. cause it works in DC, the SCR's are not a problem.
            serial number i have is LF067674 thanks for the help

            Comment


            • #21
              Lfo67674

              Originally posted by cruizer View Post
              which 180SD is it, a serial# would be handy. cause it works in DC, the SCR's are not a problem.
              Thanks for the help

              Comment


              • #22
                Originally posted by Matrix View Post
                Not ceriated, I said zirconiated.
                Not brown/orange, I said brown.
                Good info Matrix.....thanks for clarifying.....PR

                Comment


                • #23
                  Originally posted by Jorge View Post
                  Thanks matt, I have had this machine for a year now, a farmer had it first and I cleaned it real well and it has worked great on DC, the cups I used were all new and nice and clean and I was able to weld DC in text book form so I think the torch is good to go... I'm going to be able to sleep tonight with the idea that I need zinc blended electrodes and just to take the grounding contamination out of the equation I'm trying to light up with a 1/16 that should just ball up nicely ... No need to put a point on it

                  trying to upload a pic because everyone likes to see pictures
                  Zinc??????you need to get your readers fixed......someone has probably said something already, but it sure is not Zinc.........Matrix has good info on this....
                  PRB......

                  Comment


                  • #24
                    Originally posted by Matrix View Post
                    Ewww .... sour kraut?
                    That's just sick and wrong, dude.....
                    Blech ....

                    ;^)

                    Glad you got your issue sorted out.
                    OK Matrix, gotta disagree with ya here, Kraut Rules.........looked like you could use a little more clean aluminum, are you wiping down with acetone or xylene or anything after you scotchbright......grease is bad bad bad......and no steel brushes, only stainless brushes........that have only been used on aluminum.......that bead should be shiny and no fly specs.......hope this helps.....oh, the aroma of Kraut.........PRB

                    Comment


                    • #25
                      Going to sould silly, but are your work clamp and your tig torch on the correct terminals. And yes it does make a difference

                      Comment


                      • #26
                        Originally posted by cruizer View Post
                        Going to sould silly, but are your work clamp and your tig torch on the correct terminals. And yes it does make a difference
                        Cruizer, please let us know what the difference is. I had never heard/seen this other than DC.. Thanks for the input.....best wishes, Paul

                        Comment


                        • #27
                          Well, the selector is on the front, so its best to put the cables where they need to go, so work to the neg stud with electrode to the pos stud. high freq is also on the pos stud. If you happen to put the cable on wrong AC will be super erratic as will the pickups for the hall.

                          Comment


                          • #28
                            Originally posted by cruizer View Post
                            Well, the selector is on the front, so its best to put the cables where they need to go, so work to the neg stud with electrode to the pos stud. high freq is also on the pos stud. If you happen to put the cable on wrong AC will be super erratic as will the pickups for the hall.
                            Right on Cruizer, I had forgot about HI Freq. Good info
                            .....I sometimes like to run 6011 on DC Neg to fill a gap or on thin material, so with Dynasty 200 and Maxstar 140, I swap leads, but other machines I leave alone and switch the knob. Thanks for the fast response,,,,Paul
                            Attached Files

                            Comment


                            • #29
                              Lfo67674

                              LF067674 is the serial number that I found

                              Comment


                              • #30
                                Originally posted by Matrix View Post
                                Ewww .... sour kraut?
                                That's just sick and wrong, dude.....
                                Blech ....

                                ;^)

                                Glad you got your issue sorted out.
                                Matrix... If you ever get to Pittsburgh hit this place
                                http://primantibros.com/home.html
                                no kraut coleslaw! And fries and whtever they put on it...

                                busy day guys Saturday I will do a better prep, weld and photo... I have a dedicated SS brush, I also hit it with cleaner not looking to open up a can of chemistry and reactions ... I need some burn time but was not getting there due to the bad argon, I have miles to go before I will call it great welding... I am a humble novice but I will follow up and I will follow the welding rules thanks for the replies - I think we pretty much pirated this poor guys thread ... Hope he gets his splatter problem fixed
                                Last edited by Jorge; 10-19-2012, 09:43 PM.

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