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Cruizer, a question on a generator

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  • Cruizer, a question on a generator

    Cruizer, my welders are running fine,but I have a question on a portable generator which no one at this point has been able to solve. Just wondering if you can help. I bought it reconditioned a few years ago and never really checked the generator portion when I bought it.I checked out and started the motor,which was fine. It produces 110 volts at each respective 110 volt receptacle fine,but when I check for220 volts at its receptacle,there is 0 volts. On this very receptacle when I check across each hot lug independently I get 110 volts as I should,but when I check for the combined total at both hot lugs I get zero. I am confused on this one. I know this section is for welding questions,but so far have been unable to get an answer that may help reslove the problem. Then to,I don't know if it is even worth fixing given the potential cost. I bougt it from Home Depot and failed to check the generator portion when I purchased it.I guess I thought it would work properly being just reconditioned. Thanks for any input.

  • #2
    Obviously I'm not Cruiser, but my guess would be that the recepical isn't wired correctly. both hots are wired to the same leg of the generator.

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    • #3
      J Hall, That would also be my guess, If you go from hot to neutral and get 115 on each leg it should mean they are both tied to the same 115V leg.

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      • #4
        What they said. ^^

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        • #5
          I bought a generator from Costco and had to return it 29 days later when fuel started dumping out the bowl. A week after I returned it I received a recall in the mail.

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          • #6
            Originally posted by J hall View Post
            Obviously I'm not Cruiser, but my guess would be that the recepical isn't wired correctly. both hots are wired to the same leg of the generator.
            And Ditto to the other guys.

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            • #7
              Which model is it?

              By chance it doesn't have a 120v/240 toggle switch on it?

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              • #8
                No toggle switch,and thanks everyone.

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by NMWelding View Post
                  No toggle switch,and thanks everyone.
                  Can you post up the Model #, just curious.

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                  • #10
                    The generator is a Homelite model HG6000.

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                    • #11
                      Finally went out to take another look at my generator,and I am no expert,and I cannot find the problem. After reading the responses to my question,I thought I would look at it again. And I want to thank everyone for their help and hope you all can bear with me on this.Here is how it is wired. A red and blue come from one set of windings to give 120 volts and a white and a rust brown colored wire come out of the other winding to give it the other 120 volts. The red (being the hot then goes to the top of one side of a breaker and the rust colored,being the hot,ends up going to the top of the other side of the breaker. Looks like a double breaker,each side protecting its respective windings. Then two red wires come out the bottom of the breaker below where the red went in the top,and one goes to one dual 120 volt outlet,while the other red goes to the hot lug of the 240 volt outlet. Then below where the rust colored hot wire went in the top of the breaker, a set of black wires,being the hot,come off the bottom of the breaker,with one going to another 120 volt dual outlet,and then the other black goes to the other hot lug on the 240 volt outlet. I can't see the problem based on the answers I got initially,it looks wired OK,but as I said I am no expert and the problem might be right in front of me. The way it is wired to the 240 volt receptacle,the way I see it,I thought I should have my 240 volts. And of course the neutrals and ground is wired in where necessary. As I said when I first relayed my problem,when I check all the outlets,the 120 volt outlets are all fine but the 240 volt outlet gives a zero reading when I check across the two hot lugs. But if I check the hot lugs individually by touching one hot and then a neutral or a ground,I get120 volts, the same goes for the other hot lug,touching it along with either the neutral or the ground I get 120 volts with my tester. This last sentence pertains to the 240 volt outlet. I actually had a couple farmers tell me that is how it is supposed to work,I told them no way you need to have 240 volts when touching both hot lugs with a tester or nothing will run off that outlet. I proved that to them by trying to start my 240 volt buzzbox with this generator,and nothing happens. I tried to start the buzzbox with my portable welder and it started fine. And my portable welder reads 240 volts by just checking the hot lugs with my tester. Any help is appreciated guys. Thanks again.

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                      • #12
                        Do you have 240v at the input to the breaker?-Meltedmetal

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                        • #13
                          I checked the wiring of my generator against the schematic,and it is wired correctly. I checked at the 240 volt outlet,at the top of the breaker where both 120 volt hot wires hook to,and at the end of the generator where the two120 volt hot wires come out from the windings,and at no point anywhere do I have 240 volts. I have two sets of 120 volts,but nowhere do I have 240 volts.I'm thinking it must be an internal problem,which I have no idea what it is. And to be sure of myself I checked everything out multiple times. Anyone have any ideas,if nothing else I can still use it as a 120 volt generator. Thanks everyone.

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                          • #14
                            If your commons (blue and white from the windings are indeed connected in common some where to the same point then I would have to guess that when it was "reconditioned" they found one set of windings open and slipped a wire in to make it look like they were using both sets of windings when it reality they are only using one and you really only have a 120v generator that is half the rated total capacity. Any way to easily separate the winding and check them for continuity/shorts separately?
                            Meltedmetal

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                            • #15
                              OK, seems obvious now, all you have to do is stick a voltmeter probe into one of the 230 receptacles phases, and with the other probe stick it into the 120 Vac receptacles till you come up with 230.

                              Then you have the wire you need to complete the 230 on the 230 receptacle. you will need to trace it (the winding that supplys it) and r/r it with one thats already in your 230 breaker though won't matter which one as they are both on the same phase anyways.

                              You don't need a diagram and its very simple to do....

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