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  • #46
    I bet I have one you cant figure out.

    All my welds keep breaking and I know its not me so whats wrong with the welder.

    And by the way, I've only been wrong once and that was when I thought I was wrong but then discovered that I was'nt.

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    • #47
      Originally posted by Portable Welder View Post
      I bet I have one you cant figure out.

      All my welds keep breaking and I know its not me so whats wrong with the welder.

      And by the way, I've only been wrong once and that was when I thought I was wrong but then discovered that I was'nt.
      You know, your not so far off there, there is lots of Chinese, and east indians that could not weld if thier life depended on it. and its always the machine causing the problem. The ones that can barely speak english I imediately send elsewhere. The ones that attempt to talk me down in price are gone too. They all seem to like to barter, The Hudderites are ok, as they fill me up with fresh bread, meat and picked eggs.

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      • #48
        Bored, need a problem I actually can't figure out

        Nothing wrong with barter, as long as its beneficial to all party's.

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        • #49
          211 Soft Start

          Did we ever fix the 211 soft start issue. It sounds like there may be a releay sticking or chattering or posibly a logic problem some where since it only does it on the first pull, and after reseting. I am not a miller tech, just an electronics guy so take this with a grain of salt. With out a scat to read and trace, i really can give you any more advice.

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          • #50
            Originally posted by FusionKing View Post
            OK I have one. Not really something you couldn't figure out, but still a problem for me.
            I use the RCC-14 control on all my tigs. From time to time the cables go bad, right at the controller. I've bought the little repair kits and had mostly bad luck.
            Mainly because I ain't that good with that small of wire. Besides I need to be welding with my time.
            My Miller rep doesn't show just the cord available. I have a pile of this stuff laying around and it is bound to get bigger.
            I would love to find a place to just buy the control cable and not the entire assembly. Any ideas?
            The parts book shows all the pieces to build your own cord. If you have the right crimpers. But not a cord that is already assembled ready to just plug in.
            They do have ready to plug in cord assemblies for the foot controls.
            Glenn 300 amp stick
            Millermatic 35
            L-tec plasma

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            • #51
              Originally posted by trapc45 View Post
              Did we ever fix the 211 soft start issue. It sounds like there may be a relay sticking or chattering or possibly a logic problem some where since it only does it on the first pull, and after reseting. I am not a miller tech, just an electronics guy so take this with a grain of salt. With out a scat to read and trace, i really can't give you any more advice.

              No since the op's machine works in 120, but not in 230, I'm thinking something is allowing the strike relay to come on and stay on. I'm going with a primary ground issue. Easily tested by disconnecting it temporarily. Reason why I think this is that the unit did work properly for some time, I'm wondering if something was improperly hooked into that panel and supplying a low voltage to that ground circuit, and into the commons on the board. Now most of the commons are isolated, strike isn't.

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              • #52
                I don't wanna make a stupid cord, I wanna simply BUY one. How stupid is that?

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                • #53
                  Originally posted by FusionKing View Post
                  I don't wanna make a stupid cord, I wanna simply BUY one. How stupid is that?

                  I never said "Stupid", unsure where that came from.

                  Now the cable doesn't come in one piece sooo...

                  For a RCCS-14 you'll be needing the following:

                  039273 - amp conector c/w pins
                  151146 - 26.5' cable
                  215030 - tubing
                  209313 - 5 terminals required
                  209314 - connector

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                  • #54
                    Hello, I have a xmt 304 230/460 serial LB022136 welder that burns up the wires(1&3) on the RC3 connector on the PC2 board. The service manual doesnt really cover much about the PC2 board and does not have test points to check, not that I can with it burned now. The wires seem to be linked to the control transformer? I checked and did not find a short. The line contactors clicked on and off several times before it made a loud boom and bruned the wires, also knocked a smaller cap off the PC2 board. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

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                    • #55
                      One of your autolink contactors is jammed, Only one side can work at a time. If you press one in, the other should remain locked. (of course pc2 removed, and power off) quite likely one of the large charge caps is smoked and an igbt.

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                      • #56
                        Using two welders to make one. The PC2 was burned the same way and I had a good good one from another welder. Before I installed it I swapped the contactors from a unit that had an explosive C3 and C4 issue. I also tested the contactors for sticking and proper switch after the install, the original ones were good as well. Which board tells the autolink contactors to close? Is is possible that it is being told to close both? The contactors switched on of real fast with 240v tried 460v and still switched fast. The wires burned before it could be turned off, now it blows the building breaker as soon as its turned on.

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                        • #57
                          Originally posted by Tommikaze View Post
                          Using two welders to make one. The PC2 was burned the same way and I had a good good one from another welder. Before I installed it I swapped the contactors from a unit that had an explosive C3 and C4 issue. I also tested the contactors for sticking and proper switch after the install, the original ones were good as well. Which board tells the autolink contactors to close? Is is possible that it is being told to close both? The contactors switched on of real fast with 240v tried 460v and still switched fast. The wires burned before it could be turned off, now it blows the building breaker as soon as its turned on.
                          You lost your SR1 control bridge and likely your on/off switch

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                          • #58
                            yeah SR1 is shrorted now, just like the other one was before I changed it. Any ideas on why did that get taken out with the PC2?

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                            • #59
                              Perhaps an over load, what is the resistance on the auxilary windings off SR1 (where the black and white primarys would have gone)

                              Also take a diode meter to the 2 protection diodes on pc2. Also test the igbts via a diode tester, red to the top pole on the igbt black to the bottom, and black to the middle red to the bottom

                              Check your switch too

                              Take a capacitence reading off the two large caps as well, you'll have to drain them first.

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                              • #60
                                extreme 12 vs trouble

                                I have a 12vs an i can't get it to run well. It has .045 flux core in it. wire runs, and strikes but then runs inconsistent. Turned up it will run but not good. You can hear it start stop when it does it

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