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  • #31
    what do you mean by yard the head sorry to sound stupid

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    • #32
      Originally posted by jwd_88 View Post
      ok now the neck on the distributor housing is broke so so just the top of the housing wants to twist and not whole distributor any ideas on what to do to get it out of there
      I'd drop the pan and oil pump and drive it out from the bottom.

      It either has a massive build up of deposits on the housing preventing you from pulling it out of the block bore or it's somehow otherwise stuck to the oil pump drive shaft. If either is the case, you could pull the head and still not get it out and have to pull the pan anyhow. A pan gasket set is cheaper than a head gasket.
      MM200 w/spot controller and Spoolmatic 1
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      • #33
        Just thinkin. that there is still oil in the engine top end. and the unit is likely jammed in the head. You could try punching it from the bottom, but if you take the head off in all likelyhood the distributor will pop out with it. Yes you'll need a head gasket, however you can also clean goop off the top of the pistons and have a look see at the valves as well.

        Yarding the head, just means taking the head off.

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        • #34
          alright guys thank you both very much for the advice im going to jump right into it tomorrow morning and one way or another ill get it out i did how ever just drop the oil pan and did the rear main and replaced the pan gasket due to it leaking then i have trouble getting the oil pump lined back up so i was rotating the distributor to line it up then when i got it all back together and went fire it up it turned over but wouldnt start the it would put off a big back fire so i told the old timer in my union and he said it sound like my distributor was 180 out that my valves were close when they need to be open to fire then they would open and id get that big back fire thats when i tried put the distributor and it wouldnt come out then i broke the housing that when i turned the pros u guys so thanks for the help

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          • #35
            While you are at the parts store ask if they have a 5 gallon pail of punctuation....one long running sentence is hard to read.

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            • #36
              You have one big azzz, run on sentense there! Anyhow, why would you remove the oil pump to do a gasket, seal change, makes no sence.

              The rear seal is a bit of a B--itch, even though I've done a thousand of them, hope you did it correctly!

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              • #37
                Here's one for ya.......

                Ok I got a buddy that has a 300D with the kubota engine, he tells me that he had the rack put back to factory spot, he complains the it still throws snot balls(custom arc turned right down) off on 7018, he want to know if there was a way to set it up to weld as nice as a old red face?

                I have a load bank here to run it on.

                What do you suggest to do with this machine?

                Thanks Jeff your the MAN

                Railmen
                2007 Trailblazer 302G
                2004 Invision 354MP
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                older Hobart hefty wire feeder
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                had and sold........
                2003 XMT 304CC/CV
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                1975 Lincoln SA200G(best machine ever had )
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                1 Maxstar 200SD
                CST 280
                2 CST 250
                MM130


                Railmen

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                • #38
                  Originally posted by cruizer View Post
                  Is it wired for single phase? IE if you open it up, it should be from left to right on the on/off switch black, white, red where black and white are the single phase connections. Often the white and the red are reversed. This leads to mod failure.
                  Would this hold true for a 200dx that's oh ... prolly... at least 4 years old anyway? I'd hate to let the smoke outta mine.

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                  • #39
                    Originally posted by Railmen View Post
                    Ok I got a buddy that has a 300D with the kubota engine, he tells me that he had the rack put back to factory spot, he complains the it still throws snot balls(custom arc turned right down) off on 7018, he want to know if there was a way to set it up to weld as nice as a old red face?

                    I have a load bank here to run it on.

                    What do you suggest to do with this machine?

                    Thanks Jeff your the MAN

                    Railmen
                    OK, there is a problem with retards, running out of fuel with the Kubota lineup, they open up the injector pump air bleed and NEVER close it, this is especially true with the Red-D-Arc versions. So the injectors themselves can never pressure up with this air bleed wide open, so no torque and output is severly screwed. Best to close it!.

                    Second problem, while its best to line up the rack and housing dots, AND NOT use further retarted 300 amp brushes. It is ok, to move the rack 1/16" one way or the other to adjust the arc to the operators likeling. Any more than 1/16 of an inch and your asking for a generator overhaul.

                    Third problem is the Failed control bridge and low open circuit voltage adjusted via the engine rpm (output frequency), Again too high, or too low and the machine is out of tolerance. We recommend no more than 61hz. turning the engine higher, won't help the economy nor the end weld.

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                    • #40
                      Originally posted by welderboyjk View Post
                      Would this hold true for a 200dx that's oh ... prolly... at least 4 years old anyway? I'd hate to let the smoke outta mine.

                      Yes and preventative maintenance also inludes the tightening of the brass locks on the output studs. Recomend using red locktite on the threads. This is another BIG problem area which if left alone will end up causing damage to the inverter and memory boards

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                      • #41
                        OK I have one. Not really something you couldn't figure out, but still a problem for me.
                        I use the RCC-14 control on all my tigs. From time to time the cables go bad, right at the controller. I've bought the little repair kits and had mostly bad luck.
                        Mainly because I ain't that good with that small of wire. Besides I need to be welding with my time.
                        My Miller rep doesn't show just the cord available. I have a pile of this stuff laying around and it is bound to get bigger.
                        I would love to find a place to just buy the control cable and not the entire assembly. Any ideas?

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                        • #42
                          What you have there is basically 5 wire 26 gage cord, any electronics store will carry it, maybe go to a 22 gage so that it doesn't break as often

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                          • #43
                            Originally posted by cruizer View Post
                            Is it wired for single phase? IE if you open it up, it should be from left to right on the on/off switch black, white, red where black and white are the single phase connections. Often the white and the red are reversed. This leads to mod failure.

                            Got info on what went bad on my Dynasty 200 DX, PC-1, PC-2 and PC -10. Could reversed wires inside machine calls this?
                            Thanks Kevin

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                            • #44
                              Possible as the pc2 interconnect board got taken out first popping the preregulator module, and surging the other 2 inverter pc1 and boost pc10 boards.

                              If the boost board got hit, the inverter board would be ok, but would have taken out a diode on the pc2 interconnect board. If the inverter board got hit, damage would be confined to it, so something happened to the preregulator mod which they are likely changing out with PC2 interconnect but didn't mention it.

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                              • #45
                                Bored, need a problem I actually can't figure out

                                Thanks
                                I'll open it when I pick it up and get it to my shop
                                Kevin

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