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Bored, need a problem I actually can't figure out

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  • Bored, need a problem I actually can't figure out

    Anything, welder related

  • #2
    Bored, need a problem I actually can't figure out

    I have a Millermatic 211. It has the smooth start feature where the feed starts at a reduced speed for a second then up to set speed. This is used the help eliminate hot starts and spatter. It works correctly when using the 110v plug. But when using the 230v plug it only works on the first trigger pull then not again unless I turn the welder off and back on, then only on the first trigger pull. It worked correctly one day a few weeks ago and then back to the same. I talked to Miller and they sent me a new PC1 card, but it didn't fix it. it doesn't matter if the wire feed clamp is on or not. It's not a big deal, but would be nice if it worked the way it should. Well you asked for it.

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    • #3
      Hmmm, first off, is your ground clamp the stock miller, the one that has a couple of u shaped knubs at the end. Kinda shall we say brass less.

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      • #4
        With the machine off, press the trigger, turn the machine on, wait a couple seconds trigger depressed, release, and re trigger. Is the slow start back or does it remain the same?

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        • #5
          Bored, need a problem I actually can't figure out

          The clamp has been changed but has nothing to do with it. Tried with the trigger and turning on. The over temp light was flashing but still the same. I think you are thinking of the older machines that had a programmable feature the would adjust the feed speed with the voltage. This is a newer machine serial number MB290644N.

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          • #6
            Bored, need a problem I actually can't figure out

            Remember the strange part is it works fine with the 110v

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            • #7
              Actually the improper ground clamp sets the tone on how the welder works.

              As for the pressing of the trigger, many welders pulled a reset when this is done, not just the older models. Often this tid bit of information was not posted anywhere.

              As for the 110 to the 230. basically its a whole different program the machine is using, so you simply can't compare one to the other

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              • #8
                OK, with the gun trigger disconnected from the machine and with a paper clip or a piece of mig wire, jumper the machines trigger terminals, does the drive start slow each time, or is it slow first and speed up the other times.

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                • #9
                  Bored, need a problem I actually can't figure out

                  I notice the problem when I'm just feeding wire or even with the feed clamp open. It's before I'm even welding so the circuit isn't complete with the ground clamp.

                  It worked fine like this when I first got the welder then a couple of months in it stopped working. I was able to determine when it's not working the wire starts off in the fast mode which is why it doesn't affect the final weld, just the start. When I first got the welder I thought there was something wrong with the motor because you can hear the speed change. Then I realized it was the smooth start I was hearing.

                  As far as the 110 and 230 being different programs, I see it as the voltage comes into the PC board then out to the transformer. The PC board works strictly off of the 110v that doesn't change with the plugs. The 230 is just supplied to the transformer for more current. At least I believe that's how it works.

                  Miller was unable to figure out the problem and then decided that's the way it's suppose work. The only problem with that is why would it work only on the first trigger pull and why a couple of weeks ago it worked correctly the whole day.

                  I even went as far as to check all the grounds from the outlet to the cord and inside the machine. I even tried a different outlet.

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                  • #10
                    Bored, need a problem I actually can't figure out

                    Sorry, I forgot to tell you jumping out the connector didn't make any difference.

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                    • #11
                      Cruizer,I have a number of 30A control cables that I would like to figure out if they are servicable or not.I do not know the history of the cables but cannot see just blindly tossing them in the trash when replacements are 300 plus.
                      Short of a megaohm meter(which I could afford if I could build a couple of 30As to sell) is there a way to see if they are good or not?

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                      • #12
                        When I test the 30A's I just plug em into a WC-24 and Miller PSA power supply.

                        As for control cables, they seldom go out, however the pins in the plastic AMP pins tend to pull out.

                        Testing the cables themselves can easily be done with a resistance meter (OHMs) though.

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                        • #13
                          Bored, need a problem I actually can't figure out

                          I sent my 1-1/2 year old dynasty 200dx out for repairs about 3 weeks ago. Welder shuts off after about 30 seconds of welding then turns on showing the same numbers, on the display, as when you switch it on. No help code displays. It will do this over and over again. Any ideas what went wrong. Pulled a reset, no change.
                          Kevin

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                          • #14
                            Is it wired for single phase? IE if you open it up, it should be from left to right on the on/off switch black, white, red where black and white are the single phase connections. Often the white and the red are reversed. This leads to mod failure.

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                            • #15
                              As far as the 110 and 230 being different programs, I see it as the voltage comes into the PC board then out to the transformer. The PC board works strictly off of the 110v that doesn't change with the plugs. The 230 is just supplied to the transformer for more current. At least I believe that's how it works.

                              Nope, on 230 its sets a different program according to the tech manual, drops the output voltage lower and raises the ouput higher, therefore it also adjusts the wire speed to compensate. If the board didn't realize that it was operating at 230, and set itself up for 110, the unit would literally blow up.

                              Now is this machine on a table, or is it on its own cart. We've ran into a problem where people are using non isolated receptacles on the table, and it would feed back into the machine. A 110Vac machine wouldn't notice it but a 230 machine would. Just curious.
                              Last edited by cruizer; 09-21-2012, 08:09 PM.

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