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Miller xmt 350 VS good shape - $1100 - good deal or not?

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  • Miller xmt 350 VS good shape - $1100 - good deal or not?

    is it worth it ? I mainly want it for tig and stick (I have a mig). I'm not sure about the difference between this and the regular xmt 350 cc/cv. Any info before I agree to buy would be great. Thanks.

  • #2
    What do you need to do with a welder?

    What types of welding do you need to/want to do? It's not a bad price if you have a suitcase wire feeder already. Look at the face plate to see all the available functions are what you have on your wish list. It's not a good deal if you don't get everything you want at any price.

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    • #3
      My main need is to maintain tig welding skills.

      I need to keep up my certs for 2 inch 6g carbon and stainless in case they go out during dry spells in work. Other than that it will mostly be used for personal projects. I wouldn't mind having something that I could do aluminum but not sure how much more a machine like that would cost.

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      • #4
        Problem is that its a voltage sensing unit, so no 14 pin receptacle. Basically its a construction model. So its live all the time. Thats why you'd need a voltage sensing feeder.

        Aluminum might be a problem since you have no contactor or even a way of hooking it up to the machine without a WC-115 with built in contactor.

        Not a particularly popular machine, and the price reflects that.

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        • #5
          Yes...

          Even though thats an odd ball 350 vs, assuming it not stolen(be sure that model walks off many sites). 1100 for a inverter xmt 350 which will still run any feeder with a contactor is a good price. Be warned, if the case is beat up, it is very possible that welder lived a very hard life, I suggest popping the case off and looking at the internals for corrision.
          Kevin

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          • #6
            Thanks for the replys

            Originally posted by Tryagn5 View Post
            Even though thats an odd ball 350 vs, assuming it not stolen(be sure that model walks off many sites). 1100 for a inverter xmt 350 which will still run any feeder with a contactor is a good price. Be warned, if the case is beat up, it is very possible that welder lived a very hard life, I suggest popping the case off and looking at the internals for corrision.
            Kevin
            The case looks to be in great shape. And the guy's small little shop is spotless looking. I think he is moving on to a more versatile welder. I'll probably buy it if everything checks out and maybe later do the same thing. I eventually want to be able to weld aluminum even if it's only for my home projects.

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            • #7
              Just remembered, I've got a wrecked standard XMT 350, so for $450, you can have the front face, the display board, breakers and wiring for the conversion

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              • #8
                Is it tough to convert?

                Originally posted by cruizer View Post
                Just remembered, I've got a wrecked standard XMT 350, so for $450, you can have the front face, the display board, breakers and wiring for the conversion
                I've done a little electronic repair before, is this difficult?

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by b.maker View Post
                  I've done a little electronic repair before, is this difficult?
                  Nope just remove and replace components, nothing really technical.

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                  • #10
                    Let me think about it.

                    I've also got a broken xmt 304 with 2 bad boards (213664 and 219820d). This was going to be a replacement. I'd like to have both machines (working of course) but the boards were listed as unrepairable and the upgraded cards that they need (240570 and 240500) are more than I paid for it. But it would be nice to have basically an equivalent machine as a replacement .

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                    • #11
                      Can't see both the display and control board going out at the same time. What was the error code?
                      Last edited by cruizer; 09-11-2012, 05:03 PM.

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                      • #12
                        The usual problem is with the output board, igbts, or SR1. The output board while expensive to buy, is really easy to fix. IGBT's are not particularly expensive.

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                        • #13
                          It's weird to me too...

                          There are no error codes..I took it to a supposed certified Miller weld repair shop... they told me the 2 boards were bad. When I plug it in , everything appears to work. Just no output.
                          I have an IGBT tester and all of them checked out.? I also have a bench power supply and physically input power to the IGBT's and SR1 individually and everything checked out there as well. I also have a couple of capacitor checkers and both the big blue capacitors checked out as well. I tested the diodes and the resistors on the little board attached to the IGBT's(desoldering them) and all checked out. I checked the main switch for continuity and good contact along with loosening and cleaning and re-tightening any grounds or cables I could find...no dice. I just don't know enough to find the problem but I think I have the equipment(with the exception of an IC tester) to test and replace anything on the boards. I'm willing to try anything because it's just an "electronic spare parts for a robot" in its current state.

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                          • #14
                            No error codes makes it a blown zener on the display board. Display board runs the contactor circuit
                            Last edited by cruizer; 09-12-2012, 08:26 AM.

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                            • #15
                              The control board usually gives a Help 6, the output board usually a help7, sometimes the control transformers to run the igbts blow which will also give you a help 7. But you blow a IGBT transformer, you also take out a igbt. Never the less, shoot me the serial# and I can pretty much tell you which Zener is blown.

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