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Welding shop concrete thickness

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  • Welding shop concrete thickness

    I did a 40' x 80' addition onto my existing shop, It is now time to pour the floor.
    My question is how thick should I make it.

    I will have semi trucks pulling inside, usually gravel trains for me to work on them which are empty, However I will also have the steel truck coming in to deliver once a week.

    I bought 6 x 6 x 6GA wire mesh to put in the floor, I plan on using a 6 bag mix which is 4000psi concrete.

    My hilo weighs 12,000 lbs plus the 7,000 lbs lift capacity which equalls 19,000 lbs. when fully loaded.

    I now have the sand compacted for the fourth time, ( watered down between compactions over a weeks time ) so the concrete will be about 6-1/4" deep.
    Keep in mind I'm using 6Ga. mesh verses the 10 ga.that is sold at the big box store.

    So my question is will the 6-1/4" be OK or should I go 8" in the area that the semi will pull onto and leave the rest 6-1/4" thick.

  • #2
    Welding shop concrete thickness

    I have done some sidewalks in NJ that the city required 6", I would go 8" and have the concrete company add reinforcing fiber to the mix. I've done some concrete work, but I'm not a mason, just my .02
    Kevin

    Comment


    • #3
      In my concrete testing days, I'd go with a plastized mix as well. You can get varying hardness out of them. Talk to your concrete supply guys. That would be best as they know. Concrete just isn't mixing portland with gravel anymore. Also mix portland with your sand when you compact it. That'll take any moisture out of it to prevent any cracking of the concrete after it's poured. Wetting it down probably isn't the best. If your mixing it yourself you can still buy the plastizisor from a concrete firm. And if your using it, then the final product will last forever without cracking and its not nessesary to go the 8" either.

      Also remember to lift the mesh up off the ground, so the poured product can get undrneath it.
      Last edited by cruizer; 09-07-2012, 07:26 PM. Reason: keys sticking on keyboard ack,,,

      Comment


      • #4
        Welding shop concrete thickness

        Commercial

        Most commercial concrete pours, such as retail stores, commercial offices, industrial buildings and warehouses, can need up to 9 inches of thickness in the concrete pad. Retail stores and commercial offices will call for at least 5 to 6 inches of concrete, while industrial buildings and parking lots can call for 7 to 8 inches of concrete. Any commercial parking lot that will have heavy machinery needs 8 to 9 inches of concrete thickness to withstand the heavy equipment.

        http://www.ehow.com/info_12163574_thick-pour-concrete.html

        Comment


        • #5
          Worked for a concrete company...

          first is the shop heated? How long will loads be parked, do you want to have to board all tracked equipment? If it were me I would not go anywhere less then 8 inches and would likely go thicker on the truck lane. If it were me, the center where the trucks and the load is would be 9 inches and I would taper to 6 inches in the corners and sides where the load is less. Also being a constant tempature is the best thing to keep the concrete from cracking.
          Kevin

          Comment


          • #6
            Cruizer, I'm not mixing the concrete myself, and yes I made chairs to hold the wire in the middle of the slab, I to have seen wire sitting at the bottom 1/2" of the slab on some jobs that I have torn out, plus I'm using the heavier wire.

            I didd'nt mention that I put 6 beam that are 30' long that are being cast into the floor with four beams running across the 6 beams. The beams cover an area that is 16' wide x 31' the beams are a combination 12" W.F. with a 10" flange and some 14" x 30lb.

            The top of the flanges will be flush with the finish floor and I shot them in with my lazer and they are all within 3/32" of being level.
            I put 2 of the beams inline with the frame rails of a semi truck, then the next two are 8'3" on center which catches the outside edge of a semi trailer and the last two are approx. 3' off each edge of a semi trailer to allow me to do a side pull.

            My plan is to be able to straighten out rolled over gravel train trailers, heavy equipment or what ever someone brings in to be straightened.

            When I'm not using it for straightening, I'll use it to fabricate off.

            The beams dont start untill your about 28' inside the door so I have decided to make the concrete 8" thick in the area leading up to the beams where the semi trucks will be and leave the rest 6-1/4"thick.

            In the new section of the building which is 40' x 80' I will have 2 crane bays with 2 bridges in each truck bay which is 4 cranes total.

            Comment


            • #7
              The duty cycle will be fairly low, 8 inches in critical spots should be fine, toss a couple rods in here and there.

              Comment


              • #8
                Nice Shop!!!

                Originally posted by Portable Welder View Post
                Cruizer, I'm not mixing the concrete myself, and yes I made chairs to hold the wire in the middle of the slab, I to have seen wire sitting at the bottom 1/2" of the slab on some jobs that I have torn out, plus I'm using the heavier wire.

                I didd'nt mention that I put 6 beam that are 30' long that are being cast into the floor with four beams running across the 6 beams. The beams cover an area that is 16' wide x 31' the beams are a combination 12" W.F. with a 10" flange and some 14" x 30lb.

                The top of the flanges will be flush with the finish floor and I shot them in with my lazer and they are all within 3/32" of being level.
                I put 2 of the beams inline with the frame rails of a semi truck, then the next two are 8'3" on center which catches the outside edge of a semi trailer and the last two are approx. 3' off each edge of a semi trailer to allow me to do a side pull.

                My plan is to be able to straighten out rolled over gravel train trailers, heavy equipment or what ever someone brings in to be straightened.

                When I'm not using it for straightening, I'll use it to fabricate off.

                The beams dont start untill your about 28' inside the door so I have decided to make the concrete 8" thick in the area leading up to the beams where the semi trucks will be and leave the rest 6-1/4"thick.

                In the new section of the building which is 40' x 80' I will have 2 crane bays with 2 bridges in each truck bay which is 4 cranes total.
                I want to see some pics, looks like a perfect setup

                Great idea to put the beams in the floor, are you going to cut chain pockets in the beams, how are you going to affix your pulling devices? I never been a fan of the d ring, it would be a lot of work, but 2" receiver tube would make nice flat floors, and be able to convert into pulling fictures.

                Comment


                • #9
                  For your floor beam, dig big footings and run rebar through the the beams.
                  D ring on a heavy flat bar will work fine. Cut a big enough hole at the end of the beams to get the D rings in and out as needed, also the dirt.
                  Think about a jib crane just heavy enough to swing a wire feeder.
                  Pour the footing for the jib at the base of your gantry crane. Have the jib swing under the gantry.
                  Run rebar from the beams in the concrete to a J bolt for the shop frame.
                  That way the whole shop frame is grounded (HF tig) and you can hook your ground/ work lead to the J bolt and jig off the floor beams.
                  Same for the welding table,a small pad in the concrete grounded to the frame, no cables under your feet.
                  No saw cuts or cold joints in the bay you will use a creeper, nothing but smooth concrete.
                  Last put your air compress on/off switch by the light switch at the mandoor exit, lights out, air off.
                  Good Luck,
                  Bob

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Thanks for the ideas, I have run rod to all of my crane columns already so yes I can have my ground connected to the table and it will all be grounded to floor beams also.

                    As far as rebar, The beams are all welded together in a grid 6 going the 31' way and 4 going the oposite way all spaced apart.
                    I welded mudd hooks to the bottom side of the top flange on all the beams.
                    I have a little over 10,000 lbs of steel beams that the grid is built out of.

                    No pockets for chains, I will just weld down to the beams as needed.

                    No Jib crane will be needed because I'm installing 4 over head cranes in the building,

                    I also have future plans to intall a 18,000 lb hoist so I will provide at least 12" of concrete where the posts will go.

                    Thanks for the ideas, Keep them coming befor the concrete gets poured, I have all the mesh in so I'm waiting on the concrete guy now.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Tie Downs and floor heat

                      I went with your disired thickness but a must is the 6 bag mix.
                      One think that I did and not regret one bit was to install anchor tie down points.
                      I used 1" cold rolled bar stock that I heated to bend them like inverted U shape with long horizontal tails. These are about 3 to 4 feet long and I went with addtional rebar weave mat and and additional 2" thickness 3 to 4 feet around each tie down. I used a cast iron water main shut off cap housing so I have a covered flush floor tie down. I have used these for pulling vehicle frames and such.





                      I also went with water heating coils underneath the washed sand that has been heated by a simple water heater two 5500watt elements. I have used this system for 14 years now in NORTH DAKOTA!

                      NDAV8R

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by NDAV8R View Post
                        I also went with water heating coils underneath the washed sand that has been heated by a simple water heater two 5500watt elements. I have used this system for 14 years now in NORTH DAKOTA!

                        NDAV8R
                        Nothin' better than heated floors!

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          I do not think you going to like welding on the beam everytime you want to pull a frame. Also if you have ever broken a chain pulling, you need the best anchor you can get. Not sure of the beam thickness, but you could tap 1" holes in it to allow plates to be bolted up.
                          Kevin

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by Tryagn5 View Post
                            I do not think you going to like welding on the beam everytime you want to pull a frame. Also if you have ever broken a chain pulling, you need the best anchor you can get.
                            Kevin
                            I agree. I have witnessed chain breaks from a distance and you can't even blink before the shrapnel fly! If you check, almost every frame shop in the country, uses chains. I have used 1/2" High tensil chains even for light applications. You can also use cable or solid rod links. Common sense goes a long way! My set up is for the smaller jobs, though.

                            NDAV8R

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Usually, chains break loose when welded in such a way leverage is applied to the welded link, allowing it to twist and break either the link or the weld. Welding the first link in line to the direction of pull would eliminate this. Also, the use of D-rings (that can flop back and forth) will also prevent broken chains, they can always be air-arced off and reused.

                              The big advantage to imbedding beams in the floor, you can always weld jigs, fixtures, and even the job itself down to the floor, insuring nothing moves while you are welding it up. Also, you can locate chains and pull-tabs exactly where you want them, vs. having to compromise all the time with permanent imbedded loops.

                              Portable has been in business long enough, and just from reading his various posts on this board, I'm pretty confident he knows what he's doing.
                              Last edited by JSFAB; 09-12-2012, 09:12 AM.

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