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  • Rlrsk8r
    started a topic ShopMaster 300 not working correctly

    ShopMaster 300 not working correctly

    It's been a couple years since I did any aluminum but I went to the shop to do an aluminum tig job (simple inside corner) on the Miller Shopmaster 300. It has a MIG feeder and a TIG HF unit (and I could hear the HF) on it. Has a bottle of Argon that was running about 50CFH. I verified gas coming out of the TIG torch and reduced it to around 20 before I struck an arc.
    The shop owner told me that about a year ago the capacitors blew and he sent it out for repair. The LWS sent it to W Va (Miller repair depot) for repair and it worked when it came back. Then later on, it simply stopped welding and he hasn't been able to get it to work at all.
    I tried it and the tungsten was sharp and all work was clean.
    I set the amperage at about 100 amps AC and attempted to strike an arc but only got a rough arc. I was finally able to get a puddle but the arc was still EXTREMELY rough and unstabe like it had no gas. The tungsten melted and the cup got red hot and cracked.
    I was at no time able to make a good puddle as I've done with other welders and what little I was able to do was simply CHEWING GUM.
    Does anybody have suggestions ?

  • cruizer
    replied
    Well go one step further and shoot us that serial#

    Leave a comment:


  • txpaul57
    replied
    Shopmaster 300 not welding

    Hi,
    I was wondering if someone has ever had the issue I am having with my Shopmaster 300. I was welding on a Friday and all was good, came in Saturday and not welding. Was running S32P, so first thing i did was troubleshoot the wire feeder but could not find any issues. so I tried stick and no arc at all. So after looking in a few forms and seeing the main issue might the CR1 or PC1, I replaced CR1 with OEM part, still no fix. Pulled PC1 out and looked for blown components, burnt spots or cracked tracing and still not seeing any issue. Called local repair shop and they said to test PLG55 pin 5 for 10V, was 11.3. Then tested PLG51 pin 1 & 2 for 18V, was 19.4. If I had voltages at these points then more than likely PC1 issues. Also checked TP1 which had continuity.

    So knowing I didn't need to spend 800.00 on new PC1, I located and checked out a company 3E Services in Tucker GA, highly recommended, that had repaired many of the Miller 155826 boards. Called and spoke to them and received estimate, sent in for repair. Received back with a list of components replaced.

    Installed board this morning and still same issue. So I tested SR2 for the heck of it..... But do not know where to go from here. Is it possible for the repaired board to not really be repaired? Never know unless I replace with a new one, but if not PC1 then I spent 800.00 for nothing, plus the repair cost of board.

    I have gone as far as I can here, any suggestions?

    Paul

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  • cruizer
    replied
    I'm willing to bet you that its a mixed gas, I've got a bottle here that plainly states Argon, but its a c-25 mix.

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  • RoGrrr
    replied
    Originally posted by mediaad View Post
    Thanks!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
    WTF ?!? ?!?

    Leave a comment:


  • mediaad
    replied
    Thanks!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

    Leave a comment:


  • RoGrrr
    replied
    Originally posted by cruizer View Post
    Well, since it stick welds ok, and tig is rough, even when scratch starting, AC or DC, I'm going to go with operator error, or bad gas. Likely using a C-25 mix.
    I had wondered about the gas too. I checked the cylinder but it is pure argon. I'm wondering if somehow the cylinder is contaminated. I have yet to try the wire feeder to see if that works with mixed gas but I was mainly interested in tig so I deferred on that trial.
    As far as your operator error suggestion, I don't take offense to that but doubt it is a problem since the boss had problems with it and he's a good welder.
    I would imagine that like a blind squirrel, I could have found at least one acorn (a good bead on SS) but I never got a good sounding arc and the puddle just would not form.

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  • cruizer
    replied
    Well, since it stick welds ok, and tig is rough, even when scratch starting, AC or DC, I'm going to go with operator error, or bad gas. Likely using a C-25 mix.

    Leave a comment:


  • RoGrrr
    replied
    Originally posted by cruizer View Post
    Did you try scratch starting direct off the machine? (shopmaster)
    Yuuuuup. The problem is the ROUGH ARC when I get it to glow. Even when I was a newbie, I NEVER had an arc like that. Something's fubar'd.
    That's my story and I'm stickin to it

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  • cruizer
    replied
    Did you try scratch starting direct off the machine? (shopmaster)

    Leave a comment:


  • RoGrrr
    replied
    Originally posted by cruizer View Post
    OK, for steel gas must be 20 CFH Argon is ok
    Straight polarity in tig (neg to torch pos to ground clamp)
    HF in start
    Now its not nessessary to even use the HF starter in Steel, just scratch start to the work piece off a piece of scrap
    For Aluminum
    AC only
    HF in continuous
    Cruizer
    I did all that. NO GO. I tried HF in continuous. NO GO. I tried all polarities. NOTHING WORKED. I had HF. I could hear it. I could feel it. It also darkened my hood.

    As that OLD commercial used to say: "WHAT'S A MOTHER TO DO?"
    Oops. I'm dating myself....

    Leave a comment:


  • cruizer
    replied
    OK, for steel gas must be 20 CFH Argon is ok

    Straight polarity in tig (neg to torch pos to ground clamp)

    HF in start

    Now its not nessessary to even use the HF starter in Steel, just scratch start to the work piece off a piece of scrap

    For Aluminum

    AC only

    HF in continuous

    Leave a comment:


  • RoGrrr
    replied
    I went back to the shop and removed all the accessories so I could verify the power supply. I set it up for stick with 6013 and was able to lay a smooth bead with it.
    I then attached the tig torch and HF unit and opened the gas bottle (Argon). Again, I verified gas flow and post flow with the torch pointed into my ear. Yes, I turned the HF off before I did this.
    I tried to lay a bead on SS. The arc was ROUGH and noisy, almost like the a wrong gas bottle was hooked up to the manifold but this time the only bottle hooked up was ARGON. I never was able to get it to form a decent puddle. I tried AC and DC/both polarities.
    The stainless was .050 and the tungsten was .065. Every time, the tungsten melted and the base metal burned thru.
    I varied the current all over the place, changed the HF settings too.
    I took the side covers off the power supply to visually check and the main switch was in good shape, with all the sections operating normally/properly.
    I also checked the circuit board visually and found no evidence of a bad connector or burned component on the board.
    At this point, I'm at a total loss as to WTF is wrong.

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  • ccawgc
    replied
    Try stick welding in both AC and DC. If good, the look at your HF box .
    Down load the operators manual from this web site and make sure it is connected correctly. If all good the pull the cover off the HF points and look at them.
    The arc should be crackling and not a soft buzz. Also see if the points are 1/2 inch or 1/4 inch dia. The 1/4 inch sized points holder has a bad habit of failing.
    Miller has a kit to put the 1/2 inch size ones in. If you have the 1/2 in size they made need to be replaced if they a pitted or very dirty.

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  • cruizer
    replied
    Well, just cause something worked laaaassst time, doesn't mean it worked correctly. So if it worked last time the problem must be with the operator certainly NOT with the machine or hookups.

    Leave a comment:

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