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Millermatic will not feed

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  • Millermatic will not feed

    Hi,

    I'm new here and new to welding so don't beat me up too bad. I was welding tonight at the welder quit feeding wire. No melting at the tip, wire can be pulled through, solenoids click like they should and voltage to the motor.

    Does anyone know where I can find parts for one of these and any ideas how much a motor would be as that would be my guess for the problem. I will try it with another power source tomorrow just to be sure, but I wanted to see if anyone had an idea of other things to check or possible causes and how much money I was looking at before I rip it out.

    Thanks,

    Craig

  • #2
    Which Millermatic is it? There is more than one kind made. Also a model and serial number will be needed before any of your questions can be addressed.

    Comment


    • #3
      It was late and I thought the welders I had were in my sig in this forum. It is a 70's Millermatic 35 from what I was told when I bought it. Sereal # is 71-597675. Thanks in advance.

      Comment


      • #4
        Hmmm, time for a new machine, 71-... means its a 1971. parts are real obsolete for that unit, though, you could merely remove that drive motor assembly and stick in a drive asembly from a newer unit.
        Last edited by cruizer; 12-22-2011, 09:43 AM.

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        • #5
          I like it so that may be an option. Old stuff is bulletproof. What model would I be looking for to replace it with? I was looking in the owners manual and it mentions two circuit breakers (mine only has one) and a rectifier as possible causes. Any idea how to check the rectifier?

          Comment


          • #6
            Update

            I think it is time for a new voltmeter because the motor spins fine when I took it out to test it. I bridged the connection for the trigger and that yields the same result. I'm guessing rectifier. Its part 037346B listed on the side. Any ideas where I can get one? I called the local guy and he can't bring up that number.

            I just bought a new rectifier for ~$20 from Praxair. I figure that is easier and cheaper than taking it somewhere. I'll let you guys know if that works so maybe it will help the next person. I also noticed the white heat sink material on the rectifier is oozing out so hopefully that is my problem.
            Last edited by ItsMillerTime; 12-22-2011, 12:55 PM.

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            • #7
              It's good to see you taking a more logical approach. I was going to say do a little troubleshooting and figure out what's wrong before you just go changing out major and/or expensive components.

              Let us know how you make out with it.

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by duaneb55 View Post
                It's good to see you taking a more logical approach. I was going to say do a little troubleshooting and figure out what's wrong before you just go changing out major and/or expensive components.

                Let us know how you make out with it.

                I always double check everything. I was at my friend's house and used his voltmeter to check the APPS sensor on my truck and it actually blew my ECM fuse. I'm having bad luck with tools lately, but I'm glad I found the problem.

                Also, I called back to make sure they were including the heat sink material (the white compound that was oozing) and (they said it is a self contained unit and should not have any such material around it so if you have one of these with similar issues and see the white compound ooozing out it is most likely bad.) They lied to me. It has the heat sink material. I'll install it tomorrow and post again.

                Thanks for the responses everyone! I will post again next week when I install the part. If your reading this thread chime in and let me know if you would keep the millermatic 35 with reasons for and against. I really think it is a cool welder and want to hang onto it.
                Last edited by ItsMillerTime; 12-29-2011, 12:47 PM.

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                • #9
                  037346 which becomes a 035704, simple 40 amp 800 volt bridge

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                  • #10
                    Still not feeding wire....

                    Ok so I replaced the rectifier today and the problem still exsists. I have voltage to the wire speed control, rectifier and only the positive terminal on this cylendrical tube that has two tabs on it which are connected to the transformer, the wire speed control, the rectifier and the motor. The negative terminal to this tube has no voltage even if I press the trigger. I'm at a loss so I hope someone will chime in and tell me where to look next. I don't know if those tubes can go bad or what their function is exactly. Here is a picture of what it looks like: http://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot...52788396_n.jpg

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Not a tube!!!

                      Originally posted by ItsMillerTime View Post
                      Ok so I replaced the rectifier today and the problem still exsists. I have voltage to the wire speed control, rectifier and only the positive terminal on this cylendrical tube that has two tabs on it which are connected to the transformer, the wire speed control, the rectifier and the motor. The negative terminal to this tube has no voltage even if I press the trigger. I'm at a loss so I hope someone will chime in and tell me where to look next. I don't know if those tubes can go bad or what their function is exactly. Here is a picture of what it looks like: http://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot...52788396_n.jpg
                      That brown ceramic guy is NOT a tube... But a high wattage ceramic resistor... should be on your schematic... the other side is probably common with ground... do you have a voltage reading across it???
                      Last edited by H80N; 12-30-2011, 01:45 PM.

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                      • #12
                        Your unit SN precedes those that their manual can be downloaded from the Miller website under the Resources menu so you would have to contact Miller Customer Service to get a copy (usually via email) that would have the unit wiring diagram to follow. The earliest model year available for downloading is '73.

                        I'm not sure if your earlier unit will have the diagram inside the wire feeder lid or not. If it does, a clear photo of it would prove helpful in explaining what/where to check for voltages.

                        As near as I can tell, the resistor you posted the photo of is R3 and has a 25watt rating and resistance of 10ohms but not likely your problem.

                        From your latest description, it's most likely control relay CR1 that controls both the wire feed and main weld output contactor on two seperate sets of contacts is bad. The earlier relays were larger open units and the replacements are smaller "cube" type with clear housing.

                        To find it, follow the (-) lead (wire #50?) off the SR2 bridge rectifier and it should take you to CR1. Once you identify it, check it for stuck or burned contacts or if it's functioning at all.

                        Let us know what you find.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          I do not have voltage across the brown ceramic resistor. I don't see any relays except for the one that controls the gas output over onthe right in the photo. The rest of the wires attach to this thing that looks like a transformer (in the center of the photo) and has what looks to be a small transformer inside maybe to convert A/C to D/C for the motor? I have noclue what anything does or is, but I am smart enough to work on it unplugged .I’ll shoot an e-mail to Miller to see if they can help me diagnose it unless someone knows where the relay is inside the thing that looks like a transformer. Here is a link to the photo: http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot...01669626_n.jpg
                          Last edited by ItsMillerTime; 12-30-2011, 03:40 PM.

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                          • #14
                            Main contactor??

                            have you checked the continuity across the main contactor.... that is a common failure mode on both the MM35 and the MM200 .... after a while the contacts get burnt.... the coil will actuate and it will clunk into position but the contacts will no longer carry current..

                            see the device circled in orange

                            Name:  f321e040cbb8cc46c98485c6b81d5b21.jpg
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                            the contactor could also be classified as a relay...

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                            • #15

                              There is not any voltage across it where the negative and positive connections come from therectifier. Where else should I test and how do I fix this problem? Just someelectric contact cleaner and steel wool and then use dielectric grease?
                              Last edited by ItsMillerTime; 12-30-2011, 04:33 PM.

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