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Help with Stick welding Stainless uphill/Vertical

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  • Help with Stick welding Stainless uphill/Vertical

    I havent done much stainless stick . Mainly TIG stainless. What are some good techniques for going uphill? Ive heard stainless stick is a royal pain uphill. We have a project coming up and I can forsee us doing this. More then likely it will be with either 1/8 316 rods or 1/8 309 rods. Were adding a manway to a tank that is roughly 1/8 or so in thickness on the tank wall im not sure of the man way material thickness yet. For some reason they want stick vs MIG or TIG so here we are lol. Any help would be appreciated...Thanks gents..

  • #2
    Stick stainless 309 or 316 is a pain in the arse, for one reason, it doesnt like to lay flat like a 7018 weld when welding vertical using stick. Make sure you have a die grinder with a burr bit on it (single cutt burr bit works best on stainless), and grind down the hump in the middle of the weld before you run your next pass. Also when setting your heat on your machine, a 1/8 316/309 rod wont run right if you were to set it at the same heat you would run a 1/8 7018 rod. You would run the stainless steel a little colder than the 7018. Thats pretty much all I can tell you, good luck.
    If you want peace, be prepared for war!

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    • #3
      Definitely NOT a SS stick expert, but it seems to me this project could accomplished much better by using pulsed mig.
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      • #4
        I have welded a bit of ss with stick. The rods I have ran were ESAB. For me I ran them very close to what I would run 6010 at for amps. Much lower than 7018. Does not weld as nice as 7018 does out of position.
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        • #5
          I find ss welds very nice. Same technique as 7018 meaning pause on the side and weave quickly across the middle. The critical thing is your amperage. 7018 will look decent across a much wider range of amps than ss will. Most people weld it way too hot, especially vert position. Also, 3/32 ss electrode is much easier to manipulate than 1/8, especially vertical. 1/8" will give you a BIG fillet weld in vert position.

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          • #6
            Originally posted by atc250r View Post
            I find ss welds very nice. Same technique as 7018 meaning pause on the side and weave quickly across the middle. The critical thing is your amperage. 7018 will look decent across a much wider range of amps than ss will. Most people weld it way too hot, especially vert position. Also, 3/32 ss electrode is much easier to manipulate than 1/8, especially vertical. 1/8" will give you a BIG fillet weld in vert position.
            I totally agree. I weld alot of stainless all position stick and forget 1/8" on material that thin. Run 3/32" at 62-67 amps and no more. That will be plenty hot and you will know because your rod will be glowing by the time you get near the end. Don't know if your able to get the rod of your choice but I've had the best vertical stainless welds with a rod made by Filler Metals Ltd. Hope this helps.
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            • #7
              Originally posted by Showdog75 View Post
              I totally agree. I weld alot of stainless all position stick and forget 1/8" on material that thin. Run 3/32" at 62-67 amps and no more. That will be plenty hot and you will know because your rod will be glowing by the time you get near the end. Don't know if your able to get the rod of your choice but I've had the best vertical stainless welds with a rod made by Filler Metals Ltd. Hope this helps.
              Showdog has given spot on advice. I have also welded a lot of stick on stainless and his heat range and electrode size is right on target, but as Sundown stated if you have no expierience on this you would be better off to follow his advice or have someone else weld it.

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              • #8
                Proper angle

                One other thing I want to add.I weld some stainless from time to time and one thing I learned that greatly improved my welds was to angle your rod slightly down instead of up when welding vertical up.Stainless doesn`t flow like 7018. And this I learned from either this forum or the AWS forum. There is a great bunch of knowledgable guys on both of these forums. As always thanks guys.

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by NMWelding View Post
                  One other thing I want to add.I weld some stainless from time to time and one thing I learned that greatly improved my welds was to angle your rod slightly down instead of up when welding vertical up.Stainless doesn`t flow like 7018. And this I learned from either this forum or the AWS forum. There is a great bunch of knowledgable guys on both of these forums. As always thanks guys.
                  What about on the 6g position on lets say on a two inch pipe schd 80.what would you guys recommend for land&gap root pass.(still referring the ss stick rod)

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by iran8gold View Post
                    What about on the 6g position on lets say on a two inch pipe schd 80.what would you guys recommend for land&gap root pass.(still referring the ss stick rod)
                    Very difficult to open root with stainless smaw. Especially 6G. TIG is a much better (and common) choice for open root ss.

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by atc250r View Post
                      Very difficult to open root with stainless smaw. Especially 6G. TIG is a much better (and common) choice for open root ss.
                      So are you saying completely different technique from a 6010 root pass?

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by iran8gold View Post
                        So are you saying completely different technique from a 6010 root pass?
                        Yes

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                        • #13
                          iran8gold

                          what atc250r is saying is not a different technique but a different process.
                          root and hot pass tig with purge and then stick to finish

                          old but new

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                          • #14
                            Thanks to you all really.... I got the settings with amps and 3/32 and once i got the feel on some practice pieces i was able to get it done rather well. I agree with Sundown 100% would have been alot better with MIG. I ran a series of root passes with a Lincoln Red Baron 3/32 rod. Guys if youve never used these TRY THEM they make life so much better and very little slag to deal with. Then i capped using a series of stacking weaves it came out great. Ill try to get pictures up soon. Thank you all again and the amp advice helped big time....Cheers to you all..

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                            • #15
                              For 309 rod what is the best polarity?

                              I bought some scrap stainless to refine my technique and tried with both positive and negative electrode. The positive almost seemed better. Am I going the right direction? Also I read the heat is about the same as 6010 and that seemed to work well. Any particulars to help? So far I am using 3/32 but have some 1/8 to work with also

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