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Tricks for TIG welding Tri-clamp short-weld ferrules?

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  • Tricks for TIG welding Tri-clamp short-weld ferrules?

    I'm hoping someone might share some tricks for welding sanitary 304 SS Tri-clamp-style short-weld ferrules to tubing without warping the ferrule. I've tried tightly clamping the ferrule to another or a cap to hold it, but the clamp gets in the way and it will still warp if it gets hot enough. I've tried making additional tack welds for the fit-up, but that doesn't seem to impact the flanged edge of the ferrule itself. Years ago, an experienced sanitary welder told me short weld ferrules were tough, but I don't remember what he said about how to avoid the problems. My guess is it all comes down to getting the weld accomplished with as little heat as possible. Until my technique improves or I can get access to a machine with more rapid pulsing, I'm not sure what else to do.

  • #2


    I feel for ya.

    Are you purging?
    Nothing welded, Nothing gained

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    • #3
      Originally posted by shovelon View Post


      I feel for ya.

      Are you purging?
      Oh, yeah... it would be really ugly without the purge. I've mostly been trying to make my own short branch tees, which gets pretty tricky trying to get in the tight space between the run off the tee and the clamped/capped ferrule. One idea I had was to create something of a heat-sink in the form of a solid cylinder with a slightly flanged "ferrule" on the end that I could clamp onto? I don't know...

      Comment


      • #4
        I have made expanding mandrels for repair work on alum bike frames.

        MTBR frame forum members have made them out of brass. I think Paragon machine Works (cycle products) markets something similar.http://www.paragonmachineworks.com/storename/paragonmachineworks/ViewDept-261334.aspx

        Perhaps a copper cylinder with tapered threaded fittings to expand, and the flange would indeed do the trick.
        Nothing welded, Nothing gained

        Miller Dynasty700DX
        3 ea. Miller Dynasty350DX
        Miller Dynasty200DX
        ThermalArc 400 GTSW
        MillerMatic350P
        MillerMatic200 with spoolgun
        MKCobraMig260
        Lincoln SP-170T
        Linde UCC305 (sold 2011)
        Hypertherm 1250
        Hypertherm 800
        PlasmaCam CNC cutter
        Fadal Toolroom CNC Mill
        SiberHegner CNC Mill
        2 ea. Bridgeport
        LeBlond 15" Lathe
        Haberle 18" Cold Saw
        Doringer 14" Cold Saw
        6 foot x 12 foot Mojave granite

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by shovelon View Post
          I have made expanding mandrels for repair work on alum bike frames.

          MTBR frame forum members have made them out of brass. I think Paragon machine Works (cycle products) markets something similar.http://www.paragonmachineworks.com/storename/paragonmachineworks/ViewDept-261334.aspx

          Perhaps a copper cylinder with tapered threaded fittings to expand, and the flange would indeed do the trick.
          So, do you think the idea of holding the ferrule straight is the answer or doing a better job of dissipating the heat? I'm not sure I entirely understand what these devices do.

          Comment


          • #6
            The upper one holds it straight and is a blocking shoe for alum, the copper one holds straight and acts like a heat sink for steel.
            Nothing welded, Nothing gained

            Miller Dynasty700DX
            3 ea. Miller Dynasty350DX
            Miller Dynasty200DX
            ThermalArc 400 GTSW
            MillerMatic350P
            MillerMatic200 with spoolgun
            MKCobraMig260
            Lincoln SP-170T
            Linde UCC305 (sold 2011)
            Hypertherm 1250
            Hypertherm 800
            PlasmaCam CNC cutter
            Fadal Toolroom CNC Mill
            SiberHegner CNC Mill
            2 ea. Bridgeport
            LeBlond 15" Lathe
            Haberle 18" Cold Saw
            Doringer 14" Cold Saw
            6 foot x 12 foot Mojave granite

            Comment

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