Miller Electric

Welding Discussion Forums

Home » Resources » Communities » Welding Discussion Forums

  • If this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ by clicking the link above. You may have to register before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages, select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below.

Announcement

Announcement Module
Collapse
No announcement yet.

Tricks for TIG welding Tri-clamp short-weld ferrules?

Page Title Module
Move Remove Collapse
X
Conversation Detail Module
Collapse
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Tricks for TIG welding Tri-clamp short-weld ferrules?

    I'm hoping someone might share some tricks for welding sanitary 304 SS Tri-clamp-style short-weld ferrules to tubing without warping the ferrule. I've tried tightly clamping the ferrule to another or a cap to hold it, but the clamp gets in the way and it will still warp if it gets hot enough. I've tried making additional tack welds for the fit-up, but that doesn't seem to impact the flanged edge of the ferrule itself. Years ago, an experienced sanitary welder told me short weld ferrules were tough, but I don't remember what he said about how to avoid the problems. My guess is it all comes down to getting the weld accomplished with as little heat as possible. Until my technique improves or I can get access to a machine with more rapid pulsing, I'm not sure what else to do.

  • #2


    I feel for ya.

    Are you purging?

    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by shovelon View Post


      I feel for ya.

      Are you purging?
      Oh, yeah... it would be really ugly without the purge. I've mostly been trying to make my own short branch tees, which gets pretty tricky trying to get in the tight space between the run off the tee and the clamped/capped ferrule. One idea I had was to create something of a heat-sink in the form of a solid cylinder with a slightly flanged "ferrule" on the end that I could clamp onto? I don't know...

      Comment


      • #4
        I have made expanding mandrels for repair work on alum bike frames.

        MTBR frame forum members have made them out of brass. I think Paragon machine Works (cycle products) markets something similar.http://www.paragonmachineworks.com/storename/paragonmachineworks/ViewDept-261334.aspx

        Perhaps a copper cylinder with tapered threaded fittings to expand, and the flange would indeed do the trick.

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by shovelon View Post
          I have made expanding mandrels for repair work on alum bike frames.

          MTBR frame forum members have made them out of brass. I think Paragon machine Works (cycle products) markets something similar.http://www.paragonmachineworks.com/storename/paragonmachineworks/ViewDept-261334.aspx

          Perhaps a copper cylinder with tapered threaded fittings to expand, and the flange would indeed do the trick.
          So, do you think the idea of holding the ferrule straight is the answer or doing a better job of dissipating the heat? I'm not sure I entirely understand what these devices do.

          Comment


          • #6
            The upper one holds it straight and is a blocking shoe for alum, the copper one holds straight and acts like a heat sink for steel.

            Comment

            Working...
            X
            Special Offers: See the latest Miller deals and promotions.