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  • Metal prep for painting

    I've always just been happy to finish my projects and never really cared if they got painted before so dont have much experience with the right way to do it. I would like to change this and have a project that I want to paint. I started it last summer and it sat all winter in an unheated garage. So some of the metal has some rust, other parts scale, etc. What is the best way to clean all this up and get ready to paint? I would guess some 3M scotch brite quick lock discs? Do you wipe it down with anything like paint thinner or something? Also what do you guys recommend for primer or paint?

    Thanks

  • #2
    best way is to have it sand blasted... a 2 part paint will get you a durable finish... if you dont wanna sand blast, then get the elbow grease out and a grinder with a flap disc
    welder_one

    nothing fancy, just a few hot glue guns for metal
    www.sicfabrications.com

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    • #3
      I don't know how good of a finish you want, but if you just want to stop the rust and get some paint on it, Rust Oleum Rusty Metal Primer sticks to rusty metal like you would not believe. Just brush off the loose scale and hit it with the Rusty Metal Primer, then paint in the color of your choice.

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      • #4
        I live near the water and I treat everything with ospho. You just brush it on and let it sit over night and then wipe the residue off, prime and paint and it will be rust free for many years. I like this product and it has worked for me. I have a friend that restores cars and he puts a coat of this on before priming. If you have large pieces of rust scale brush them off but if just rust and no large pieces flaking off just put it on and have at it.

        Wheelchair

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        • #5
          Look in the phone book for powder coating shops. Take the project to them it will be done better/cheaper than you can do it yourself..
          Steve

          Bobcat 250EFI

          Syncrowave 250

          Millermatic 350P

          Hypertherm 1250

          A Bunch of tools

          And a forklift to move the heavy stuff with..

          Torchmate 2x2 CNC Plasma

          It's Miller Time - Get Back To Work!

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          • #6
            The project I'm working on now I cleaned bare metal with DuPont 5717S Metal Conditioner, this removes surface rusts and etches the surface. Then I shot it with Nason 491-16 Ful-Poxy epoxy primer (for bare metal) and finished it off with DuPont industrial coating (Imron). Yea, it's an expensive way to go, but the client was willing to pay for the quality and Imron lasts a very long time and provides excellent protection.
            Cost?

            Don't remember how much the metal etch was, probably $30.00+-
            The Full-Poxy is $200.00 a gallon with activator (provides 2 gallons)
            The Imron varies with color and gloss, $150-$300 a gallon (mixes 4 parts to 1, so provides 5 quarts)
            Miller Syncrowave 200
            Homemade Water Cooler
            130XP MIG
            Spectrum 375
            60 year old Logan Lathe
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            More stuff than I can keep track of..

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            • #7
              If the project flexes or gets impacted I hope you used the flex agent.. For less than half of the money you spent on the paint alone the powder coat shop would have handed you the finished product.. with a much better (sand blasted / electrostatic applied) baked on environmentally friendly finish..

              Rustoleum industrial polyurethane is more flexible than imron, I have shot "E" all of the above in my industrial coating days.. Imron is good for repeat business as it does not last long under harsh conditions..

              JMO's
              Steve

              Bobcat 250EFI

              Syncrowave 250

              Millermatic 350P

              Hypertherm 1250

              A Bunch of tools

              And a forklift to move the heavy stuff with..

              Torchmate 2x2 CNC Plasma

              It's Miller Time - Get Back To Work!

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by Pass-N-Gas View Post
                If the project flexes or gets impacted I hope you used the flex agent.. For less than half of the money you spent on the paint alone the powder coat shop would have handed you the finished product.. with a much better (sand blasted / electrostatic applied) baked on environmentally friendly finish..

                Rustoleum industrial polyurethane is more flexible than imron, I have shot "E" all of the above in my industrial coating days.. Imron is good for repeat business as it does not last long under harsh conditions..

                JMO's
                There isn't a booth big enough to fit this into! When it gets finished I'll post up some pics.
                Miller Syncrowave 200
                Homemade Water Cooler
                130XP MIG
                Spectrum 375
                60 year old Logan Lathe
                Select Machine and Tool Mill
                More stuff than I can keep track of..

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by ponch37300 View Post
                  I've always just been happy to finish my projects and never really cared if they got painted before so dont have much experience with the right way to do it. I would like to change this and have a project that I want to paint. I started it last summer and it sat all winter in an unheated garage. So some of the metal has some rust, other parts scale, etc. What is the best way to clean all this up and get ready to paint? I would guess some 3M scotch brite quick lock discs? Do you wipe it down with anything like paint thinner or something? Also what do you guys recommend for primer or paint?

                  Thanks
                  Proper metal prep IS EVERYTHING on a paint project.
                  Fail to do it right and you waste your money buying the paint.

                  I use PPG products. They are no better or no worse than other brands, it is just what I use.

                  Whatever brand you decide to use, make sure the other products are from the same brand.
                  The PPG I use is the Color Concept product. This 2 part paint is absolutely bullet proof.
                  I use the 2 part primer as well.
                  Once you spray the primer, no rust will ever affect it again. You could soak it in saltwater.
                  However, you have one week to apply the paint. Longer than a week you will have to scuff sand it and apply another light coat of primer. Then you have another week to paint it. The bonding is chemical, so that is the reason for the time frame. It is all explained clearly in the instruction product sheets available from the PPG dealer.

                  For the metal prep, I always wash the part first with hot soapy water.
                  I then remove the rust with a wire cup brush.
                  Next I apply metal conditioner and then rinse it off.
                  Dry and apply primer as soon as you can (to prevent light rust from forming)
                  Paint it within one week, or sooner. I always prime one day and paint the next.
                  You will love the finish, but not the cost of paint and catalyst. This stuff is getting expensive by the day.

                  But regarding the powder coating........ Well, not for me thank you. There is no repairing chips that you will get with powder coating, and you will get them.
                  And for the cost of having that done, you can buy the 2 part paint and primer. Just my 2 of course.
                  pg
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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by nocheepgas View Post
                    There isn't a booth big enough to fit this into! When it gets finished I'll post up some pics.
                    That I can relate too..I had to blast n paint the Sterling 5500 truck bed for the same reason..

                    Here's my pics:



                    Steve

                    Bobcat 250EFI

                    Syncrowave 250

                    Millermatic 350P

                    Hypertherm 1250

                    A Bunch of tools

                    And a forklift to move the heavy stuff with..

                    Torchmate 2x2 CNC Plasma

                    It's Miller Time - Get Back To Work!

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Pass-N-Gas View Post
                      That I can relate too..I had to blast n paint the Sterling 5500 truck bed for the same reason..

                      Here's my pics:



                      I use Quality powdercoating in Dallas. they have a batch oven 50 x 10 x 8. Dropping parts off, I am always amazed by the size of some of the stuff they coat
                      Miller 350P
                      Miller Econotig
                      Milwaukee Dry saw
                      Evolution Dry saw (for sale)
                      Scotchman 350 cold saw
                      7x12 bandsaw
                      1910 ATW 14 x 72 lathe
                      fridge full of adult beverages
                      Sirius radio

                      www.snpequipment.com
                      callouses and burns a plentysigpic

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                      • #12
                        Thanks for all the advice everyone. I called some powder coating places and they want a lot more than the price of paint to blast and powder coat things.

                        So my plan now is to sandblast this myself and have been doing some searching on sandblasting. I bought a used ALC pressure type blaster for a really good price but have never used it.

                        After blasting I think I'm just going to spray bomb the primer and paint. This is just a homemade spring compressor for the garage so it doesn't need to look "pretty". I have a HVLP conversion gun that runs off my compressor that I used to spray my kitchen cabinets that would do a better job but not sure it would be worth the trouble of mixing the paint and cleaning the gun.

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by ponch37300 View Post
                          Thanks for all the advice everyone. I called some powder coating places and they want a lot more than the price of paint to blast and powder coat things.

                          So my plan now is to sandblast this myself and have been doing some searching on sandblasting. I bought a used ALC pressure type blaster for a really good price but have never used it.

                          After blasting I think I'm just going to spray bomb the primer and paint. This is just a homemade spring compressor for the garage so it doesn't need to look "pretty". I have a HVLP conversion gun that runs off my compressor that I used to spray my kitchen cabinets that would do a better job but not sure it would be worth the trouble of mixing the paint and cleaning the gun.
                          People can do amazing things with rattle cans, just look at the subway cars in most major cities
                          Miller 350P
                          Miller Econotig
                          Milwaukee Dry saw
                          Evolution Dry saw (for sale)
                          Scotchman 350 cold saw
                          7x12 bandsaw
                          1910 ATW 14 x 72 lathe
                          fridge full of adult beverages
                          Sirius radio

                          www.snpequipment.com
                          callouses and burns a plentysigpic

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by STRENGTH AND POWER View Post
                            People can do amazing things with rattle cans, just look at the subway cars in most major cities


                            Must be nice to have an oven that big at your disposal..

                            Mine is 100 miles away and I would have had to cut off the rack or the back of the bed to get it in..
                            Steve

                            Bobcat 250EFI

                            Syncrowave 250

                            Millermatic 350P

                            Hypertherm 1250

                            A Bunch of tools

                            And a forklift to move the heavy stuff with..

                            Torchmate 2x2 CNC Plasma

                            It's Miller Time - Get Back To Work!

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by STRENGTH AND POWER View Post
                              People can do amazing things with rattle cans, just look at the subway cars in most major cities
                              Ya they can! I'm not looking for a perfect finish, just want something that will last. Want to prep the metal right so what ever I use will stick pretty good. Who know I might pull out the paint gun to do this if I'm in the mood.

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