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Help! Smaw

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  • Help! Smaw

    Hey you all,

    I am trying to re-learn the art of the STICK

    I stopped about 20years ago and switched to MIG and TIG. I have been doing some projects for myself lately outside in the wind. Now my fillets and laps are good in 1G, 2G, 3G up and down. I haven't needed to go overhead yet. Open root anything really sucks. I know they would pass the xray if I used a flashlight with NO batteries!!!!

    So I download 2 books on SMAW one from Miller and one from Lincoln. I have been reading both and the info is very similar. The exercise I am attempting is right at the basics. 1/8" mild steel. 1/8" 6010( Lincoln 5+) open root flat. This is the exercise spelled out in the book. For the record the book said the first attempts will be failures. They didn't lie.
    The machine I am using is my XMT350 cc/cv. I have have used from 75 amps to 90amps with the arc control from 20 to 80. Another article suggested 50 to 60 so that is where I am at.

    Oh! after a bunch of trys I did a really good one bead - perfect
    So I did it again, not even close. So even I can get lucky. I want to be proficent.


    Our local JC has welding classes but are book up, bummer. So I am attempting this on my own.

    I see the "key hole effect" form when I start. I move the rod side to side, in half moons, zig-zag. i move fast enough to not burn through and I am not welding at all. i move slower to get the 2 pieces together and then the key hole....... i could drive my truck through.

    If i knew someone up here that was a pipeliner or a high steel ironworker I would ask for any help they would be willing to give, I don't know anyone that does this.
    So any assistance I can get here, trust me, would be greatly appreciated.

    Thank you in advance. H
    Live Right Have Fun

    XMT350 CV/CC
    22A Feeder
    MM175
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    TB302
    12vs Extreme
    Hypertherm PowerMax 1000
    20" x 40" CNC Mills (2)
    16" x 60" engine lathe
    65 Ton edwards iron worker
    3/16' x 24" power slip roll
    16' power feed mitering bandsaw
    and other fun toys

  • #2
    How much of a gap are you running? With 6010 I always run a stringer bead for my root, you can weave a lil with 7018, but 6010 try a stringer. If you get the gap and arc length just right, you shouldn't even really have to pause, you just do a slow drag and run a perfect root. I keep a very close arc length, helps keep the burn thru to a minimum, and you can control the keyhole better. Try about 10-15 degrees drag on your electrode. I run a 3/32 gap. Keep your eye on the puddle and keyhole, just drag along, and only pause if the hole starts to open up more, or not fill in.
    Last edited by hockeyguynick; 04-17-2010, 02:17 PM.

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    • #3
      i do my 6010 open root on pipe so i don't know if this will help, but i always do a stringer bead with a key-hole and usually a little push back into the puddle when i come back into it. it gives the effect of the stacked dimes nicely.

      I also noticed you didn't mention anything about a bevel and a land. don't know if that will help ya either.
      American By Birth, Union by Choice!

      4th generation Pipefitters LU 537

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      • #4
        UPDate

        OK,

        So Hockeyguynick and DamageInc537, thank you.

        so now I can post a couple of pics. I adjusted my gap to 3/32 and the rod angle, I was way overboard. Also just ran a stringer.

        Again the 1st bead looks the best to me and rest just get worse.

        damageInc537, your question about a bevel. Not yet I want to follow the books on that part. I get to bevel a little later.

        I included the 2nd bead with the burn throughs without any attempt to fix these. I will learn better if I go on and try without burning through instead of repairing at this point.

        In pic 1 the 1st bead after instructions from the afore mentioned people shows the 1st bead at the left

        pic 2 is the back side of these, agian #1 is on the left.

        I am not there as yet but trying.
        Attached Files
        Live Right Have Fun

        XMT350 CV/CC
        22A Feeder
        MM175
        Dynasty 200DX
        TB302
        12vs Extreme
        Hypertherm PowerMax 1000
        20" x 40" CNC Mills (2)
        16" x 60" engine lathe
        65 Ton edwards iron worker
        3/16' x 24" power slip roll
        16' power feed mitering bandsaw
        and other fun toys

        Comment


        • #5
          With beveled pipe, .250 and greater, 5/32 5p+ open root, penny wide gap, nickle wide land. 3/16 hot pass after grinding the root. Fill and cap with 3/16. (This is downhill welding). The harder the pipe, the less you can push on the root pass. X42 is soft and pushing the root in is allowable. X80 is hard and no pushing, what-so-ever is permissable, suck back city. That is all I can think of right now.

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          • #6
            fast freeze

            6010/6011 use a different technigue than 7018, are you whipping the rod from the puddle, it works better than just draging it

            Comment


            • #7
              Where abouts in Southern Cal are you?
              I'm in north Mexico (National city)

              No I'm no pipe welder but I can run my fare share 6010 and 7018.
              If you need a hand with technique PM me
              Miller Syncrowave 200 W/Radiator 1A & water cooled torch
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              K.O. Lee surface grinder 6X18
              Over 20 years as a Machinist Toolmaker
              A TWO CAR garage full of tools and a fridge full of beer
              Auto shades are for rookies
              www.KLStottlemyer.com

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              • #8
                i think you might be holding the rod to far from the puddle, just rest it on the plate at 15 degrees and let it burn down. no pushing or pulling.

                i only had a pic of a pipe weld.
                Attached Files
                TB 325
                TB 302
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                spoolmatic 30a/wc24
                suitcase x-treme 12vs
                miller 211
                evolution rage 2

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