Just re read your settings and your polarity is wrong It needs to be set to +wire or DCEP reverse polarity for solid mig wire. You use DCEN for flux core or inner shield wire. That would be the first thing I would change.
Then try these settings.
Set the fine adjustment to about 7 to 8 this should get you at or near 24 volts.
Then on the feeder set the Hi Low switch to HI and dial the feed knob to about 50% Leave the CC/CV switch set to CV
And give that a try and keep the distance from the contact tip to work at about 3/4" or a little less. If the wire stubs as in it just hits the material, sparks and melts away slowly turn the wire speed down. If the wire burns back to the tip and melt off turn the wire speed up.
Keep in mind Mig welding is not like stick welding where you can make wide swings of the dial and you only foul things up a little bit.
If you start making huge adjustments to the voltage or the wire speed it wont take much to set the machine where they wont weld.
Like I said set the machine for about 24 volts and play with the wire speed only. Make one small adjustment at a time. About 10% till you get that bacon frying sound. Then you'll need some experience to get it dialed in just right.
A wide flat puddle is to much voltage or to little wire feed speed and a narrow tall puddle is to little voltage or too much wire. And keep this in mind too In stick welding you could only burn so much rod at a given amperage range. and you could jack with the heat all over the place and not really foul things up to bad. Well with wire feed you have a window where the machine will produce a weld but you can be using to much or to little wire or to much or to little voltage and it will look somewhat normal. This is what makes Mig welding a bit of a pain. It's all in the settings, after that you could have a four year old kid doing the welding just point and shoot.
Well it's not that easy but easier then stick and a far cry from tig.
Give that a shot and let us know