Miller Electric

Welding Discussion Forums

Home » Resources » Communities » Welding Discussion Forums

  • If this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ by clicking the link above. You may have to register before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages, select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below.

Announcement

Announcement Module
Collapse
No announcement yet.

no amp control... econotig..

Page Title Module
Move Remove Collapse
X
Conversation Detail Module
Collapse
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • #16
    I purchased my unit in '91 and my conn is the same as yours for foot control eventhough the D is in the plug, it adds K for thumb control which appears to be a ground. Me thinks your problems are typical of the reference you posted.
    Good luck
    L*S
    Attached Files

    Comment


    • #17
      Originally posted by Leons2003 View Post
      I purchased my unit in '91 and my conn is the same as yours for foot control eventhough the D is in the plug, it adds K for thumb control which appears to be a ground. Me thinks your problems are typical of the reference you posted.
      Good luck
      L*S
      thanks for the pictures..

      i guess now my only chance is to find someone whos encountered this problem before and fixed it themselves..

      Comment


      • #18
        no amp control... econotig..

        What foot control are you using and how many pins does it have?
        Which pins does does it use?

        According to the manual you supplied it should be a RFC-14 which has 5 pins (A,B,C,D,E)

        Comment


        • #19
          Originally posted by Windmiller View Post
          What foot control are you using and how many pins does it have?
          Which pins does does it use?

          According to the manual you supplied it should be a RFC-14 which has 5 pins (A,B,C,D,E)
          pictures are uploading...

          its an rfc-14 just like you said with pins a b c d and e

          but there is no d pin on the machine!

          and the hand control plug has a, b, c, d, e, and k...

          and i dont have a k pin on the machine...

          Comment


          • #20
            pictures uploaded..
            i flipped the images so you can see the pins corresponding to the machine..

            hand control pins a,b,c,d,e, and k



            foot control pins a,b,c,d and e



            any input would be greatly appreciated

            Comment


            • #21
              would the k pin ground stop the hand control from working?



              can i run a wire to the k pin and ground it?

              where would i properly ground it to

              Comment


              • #22
                no amp control... econotig..

                From the photo's you are missing a wire as indicated by Cruizer. 2 of them (A&B) are for the switch and the other 3 are for the resistor that controls the current. If it was my unit, I would start tracing the wires from the connector on the front panel back to the main board to see which one is missing.

                A&B must be OK as the unit does turn on, however one of the other 3 are missing as it appears to go to full amps.

                Cruizer would be the best resource as he appears to have access to a lot of the main board schematics.

                Comment


                • #23
                  Bo the ground wire doesn't do anything, so nothing to worry about there.

                  I was just suprised to see "D" missing. never the less, lets try jumpering slot "a" & "b" on the machine

                  That will turn the output on. See if you can adjust the arc from min to max on the local control. If it still goes full out, then we can trace the problem more easily.

                  Comment


                  • #24
                    Originally posted by cruizer View Post
                    Bo the ground wire doesn't do anything, so nothing to worry about there.

                    I was just suprised to see "D" missing. never the less, lets try jumpering slot "a" & "b" on the machine

                    That will turn the output on. See if you can adjust the arc from min to max on the local control. If it still goes full out, then we can trace the problem more easily.
                    i will do that tomorrow morning

                    so just run a wire from a to b?

                    and the amp control on the welder will be active?

                    Comment


                    • #25
                      person i bought the welder off of is worthless..

                      he tried telling me that he rewired the welder plug wrong to match his wall outlet.. and that ground wasnt ground... i tried telling him that would propably have fried the welder the second i plugged it in and he argued that it wouldnt..

                      well just to be safe i popped the cover off the welder just now and checked the wires.. ground is ground hot is hot...

                      Comment


                      • #26
                        Originally posted by cruizer View Post
                        Bo the ground wire doesn't do anything, so nothing to worry about there.

                        I was just suprised to see "D" missing. never the less, lets try jumpering slot "a" & "b" on the machine

                        That will turn the output on. See if you can adjust the arc from min to max on the local control. If it still goes full out, then we can trace the problem more easily.
                        i jumped a and b.. with no foot or hand control connected.. set the amp knob to 10 and it still ran full tilt..

                        Comment


                        • #27
                          I don't know the innards of Econitigs, but I do know about electronics. If I were to bet, I'd say maybe you lost the ground connection of the potentiometer (variable resistor). This typically has three connections: one end goes to a fixed voltage (maybe 10V), the middle (or wiper) outputs a variable voltage that depends on the pedal position and sets the current, and the other end goes to ground. If you lose the ground connection (dirty or loose connector), the wiper will put out the top voltage no matter where you turn the knob (or pedal). This is because you lose the voltage divider action when there is no ground connection on the potentiometer. Normally the wiper voltage should vary between 0V and the top voltage as potentiometer is changed. If you can get a meter on the wiper output inside the pedal, you'll know right away what is going on. I'll bet it's stuck at the max voltage.

                          Comment


                          • #28
                            Originally posted by lens42 View Post
                            I don't know the innards of Econitigs, but I do know about electronics. If I were to bet, I'd say maybe you lost the ground connection of the potentiometer (variable resistor). This typically has three connections: one end goes to a fixed voltage (maybe 10V), the middle (or wiper) outputs a variable voltage that depends on the pedal position and sets the current, and the other end goes to ground. If you lose the ground connection (dirty or loose connector), the wiper will put out the top voltage no matter where you turn the knob (or pedal). This is because you lose the voltage divider action when there is no ground connection on the potentiometer. Normally the wiper voltage should vary between 0V and the top voltage as potentiometer is changed. If you can get a meter on the wiper output inside the pedal, you'll know right away what is going on. I'll bet it's stuck at the max voltage.
                            Wouldn't matter, as the remote would still work then. As you can see by the print there is no ground connection to the controller probabably due to unprotected HF issues, not found in later machines.

                            Comment


                            • #29
                              Ok, lets have a look see at the tech manual, it says :

                              Disconnect leads #34 & #35 from PC1 and then with a resistance meter, check for continuity accross there connecters RC4-1 to RC5-1.

                              Comment


                              • #30
                                Originally posted by cruizer View Post
                                Ok, lets have a look see at the tech manual, it says :

                                Disconnect leads #34 & #35 from PC1 and then with a resistance meter, check for continuity accross there connecters RC4-1 to RC5-1.
                                i definitely do not want to poke around inside the welder :/

                                the thought of a lethal dose of electricity is scary..

                                i think ive done all the trouble shooting i can.. ill try taking it to a local repair shop a friend recommended.. so well see..

                                thank you for your help ill still chime in with updates (if any) to help other people with the problem in the future

                                Comment

                                Working...
                                X
                                Special Offers: See the latest Miller deals and promotions.