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Printed Circuit Board (PCB) Failure - Repair?

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  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB) Failure - Repair?

    Hi to all.

    (The info. below relates to problems I am having with a Synchrowave 180 that is presently failing to start an arc in the TIG mode, but will in Stick. For the complete history see earlier post entitled "Synchrowave 180 no go".)

    Thanks to tasslehawf & captkipp for your responces. Sorry that you too, kruser, are having a somewhat similar problem.

    I followed your suggestion captkipp & contacted Miller tech support & explained my problem. They were very helpful in then walking me through a trouble shooting procedure which, unfortunately, led to the conclusion that I needed a new PCB (printed circuit board - retail is nearly $500).

    I did learn for all those out there that there are 2 fairly common problems with these (earlier) units. Sometimes a capacitor would fail that in hindsight was not up to Miller's expectations, as well as earlier molex recipticals (where the remote foot control plugs into the welder) that failed to keep a solid connection. Unlucky for me, these were not my problem.

    So do any of you out there have any knowledge or experience in getting these PCBs repaired? Recommendations as to folks that do good work for a reasonable cost?

    Thanks for any responces.

  • #2
    Originally posted by ducguy View Post
    Hi to all.

    (The info. below relates to problems I am having with a Synchrowave 180 that is presently failing to start an arc in the TIG mode, but will in Stick. For the complete history see earlier post entitled "Synchrowave 180 no go".)

    Thanks to tasslehawf & captkipp for your responces. Sorry that you too, kruser, are having a somewhat similar problem.

    I followed your suggestion captkipp & contacted Miller tech support & explained my problem. They were very helpful in then walking me through a trouble shooting procedure which, unfortunately, led to the conclusion that I needed a new PCB (printed circuit board - retail is nearly $500).

    I did learn for all those out there that there are 2 fairly common problems with these (earlier) units. Sometimes a capacitor would fail that in hindsight was not up to Miller's expectations, as well as earlier molex recipticals (where the remote foot control plugs into the welder) that failed to keep a solid connection. Unlucky for me, these were not my problem.

    So do any of you out there have any knowledge or experience in getting these PCBs repaired? Recommendations as to folks that do good work for a reasonable cost?

    Thanks for any responces.
    www.industrialelectronics.com

    1/3 The cost of new based on quite old prices.

    Guaranteed for 90 days. I have had them do work for me in the past. Great guys.

    If you call them, ask for Dave. He's the guy that can get you going.

    Just make sure you have the problem nailed down. Something could have caused it & you wouldn't want to put money in a rebuilt board & have it puke again because of something else.

    Good luck.
    So you're telling me...You're not nostalgic? Then, give me another word for it......

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    • #3
      I have dealt with Larry Burross at Applied Electronics and he does quality work. He is also on this forum and has helped me out a lot so I try to do as much business with him as I can. Here is his contact info.

      Applied Equipment, Inc.
      2515 Cartwright St.
      Dallas, Tx 75212

      214-630-9353 phone
      214-630-9354 fax
      888-630-9353 toll-free
      214-577-9353 cell
      786-629-9353 computer
      email: weldersales@airmail.net

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      • #4
        As it Sticks, all you likely have is a failed or stuck relay or a 6 pin optocoupler not turning the tig power on and off as you hit the trigger. Both easy fixes if you know what your doing.

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        • #5
          Thanks for the responce cruizer.

          Can you tell me more? I've checked the "A & B" pins @ the molex connector where the foot control plugs into the welder. The pedal makes & breaks continuity when the pedal is pushed on & off, as it should. I've also checked the continuity of all the wires form the molex receptical up to the PCB & all show continuity. The plug into the PCB from these wires also looks good, clean & solid.

          What relay are you referring to & how can I check it?

          Thanks - ducguy

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