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  • welding hydraulic cylinders?

    Has any one ever welded on a hydraulic cylinder before. I have a forklift and the main hydaulic cylinder is gouged in a few places and was wondering if i could weld a few beads on it and then grind it flush again. Has anyone ran into this before and if so what kind of filler metal and settings would you use. My plan was to tig it.

  • #2
    We need pics!

    One good start would be for you to post some pics of what you're facing.There are people who can point you in the right direction here but we need to see what you see,Frank
    Millermatic 252
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    • #3
      Hydraulic cylinders are cheap.
      http://www.surpluscenter.com/sort.as...c&keyword=HCD2
      Caution!
      These are "my" views based only on “my” experiences in “my” little bitty world.

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      • #4
        Hydraulic Cylinders

        Originally posted by stretch View Post
        Has any one ever welded on a hydraulic cylinder before. I have a forklift and the main hydaulic cylinder is gouged in a few places and was wondering if i could weld a few beads on it and then grind it flush again. Has anyone ran into this before and if so what kind of filler metal and settings would you use. My plan was to tig it.
        Stretch: Is it leaking? Not even going to ask how the "gouges" got there.

        Hydraulic cylinders can be chromium clad, 316 stainless, 413 stainless, but regardless, they are precision machined to insure proper sealing.

        Maybe one of our Machinist Members can contribute some more information.

        If it were me, I'd replace it.

        Dave
        "Bonne journe'e mes amis"

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        • #5
          I did a similar fix on an old farm dump truck cylinder by filing out the nick and using epoxy fill. Blended out epoxy with a brown Roloc wheel. It was just to keep the seal from getting torn up - hardness/color match didn't matter much.

          I would NOT do this repair on a forklift - way too much liability.
          2007 Miller Dynasty 200 DX
          2005 Miller Passport 180

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          • #6
            I too would use epoxy...Bob
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            • #7
              I have built cylinders, I have modified cylinders, I have repaired cylinders. The big thing to remember, if you are welding anywhere near the middle of the cylinder, shrinkage IS a possibility. Even to the point, that the piston won't make it thru. Even welding cracks, at the top end or the bottom end, it's possible to tighten everything up, to the point the piston will jam.

              How bad are the gouges?? Just slight ones, not leaking, cosmetic, consider doing nothing. If you do think they need to be fixed, low heat, keep the oil in the cylinder, use stringer passes, DON'T blow thru, letting it cool between passes. If you have the guts, peen them also, once not red-hot anymore.
              Obviously, I'm just a hack-artist, you shouldn't be listening to anything I say .....

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              • #8
                I'm reading the original post here, I assume gouges on the outside of the cylinder, not on the chrome shaft. Typical fix on the shaft, is get a new one. For a little-used machine, with a bad shaft, generally cheaper and better to just replace the seals every couple years.
                Obviously, I'm just a hack-artist, you shouldn't be listening to anything I say .....

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                • #9
                  ah...my my area...

                  First where is the damage? If it is the barrel(barrel is not the chrome rod but the actual place the piston goes up and down in it) is it external, or internal? If its external and it is not leaking..dont touch it. If its external and leaking I have welded them in the past, but be worned barrels are round and welding will almost always put an out of round condition and the wear rings on the piston will wear quickly. If it is internal, IE the piston gland gouged it, the barrel is junk.. Any good cylinder shop can repair it, basically they replace the barrel. As for the rod, gouges can be welded then the cylinder rod must be rechromed. None of these are difficult to accomplish. I do have a few vendors if you need contacts. They are located in Naperville, IL.
                  Kevin
                  Lincoln ranger 305g x2
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                  • #10
                    My local hydraulic shop / repair shop told me if a welded cylinder cost under 200.00 buy it! Labor to cut it open, reweld, and parts will eat up a 200 $ bill.
                    Caution!
                    These are "my" views based only on “my” experiences in “my” little bitty world.

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                    • #11
                      If it is on the barrel & not the chrome shaft disconnect the upper hose so you don't build up pressure & just put a couple passes on it but try not to get it to hot, let it cool between passes. If it is on the chrome shaft then I'm assuming that it is leaking as it passes the seal & will most likely tear the seal if it hasn't already. I would weld it up, again letting it cool between passes. Grind, sand & then polish as best you can. Install new seal if needed which should last for a while. If you don't feel like doing it then take it to a repair shop. Stuff like this gets fixed all the time out in the field. While it might not be perfect it is usually good enough to work for a long time. Tig would be perfect this. ---- If it is cracked & leaking from the crack then tig would not be a good choice but if just filling in gouge marks (as the op stated) then tig will work fine.----
                      Last edited by MMW; 10-26-2009, 04:25 PM. Reason: clarifying my answer
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                      • #12
                        ^^^^^ yep.
                        Tim Beeker,
                        T-N-J Industries
                        (my side bussiness)

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by MMW View Post
                          Tig would be perfect for this.

                          Tig is a bad choice if you have a crack as you never stop drawing hyd fluid out.
                          If you don't have a crack, that's leaking, then there's no reason to weld on the cylinder.
                          I've welded tons of large hyd cylinders, all were actively leaking thu cracks, on large mining equipment. The proper way is to use an inert purge and grind a bit of a groove.
                          There are a lot of haul truck and large loader (like the old 580's, back when they were the largest loader in the world) cylinders happily working away after having cracks expediently repaired.
                          Stick is the way to go on those but like I said if a cylinder isn't leaking it's just flat wrong to weld on it.

                          JTMcC.
                          Some days you eat the bear. And some days the bear eats you.

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                          • #14
                            I use to be in the hydraulic cylinder manufacturing business as a weld engineer. Do not weld on the side of a cylinder that is being used for forklift hydraulics. The wall is to thin and you are going to distort that tube as metioned above. It is not worth the risk. Those cylinders are more expensive to R&R than the purchase cost. Do it right the first time or you'll end up doing it right later.

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                            • #15
                              cylinders...

                              Originally posted by Sonora Iron View Post
                              My local hydraulic shop / repair shop told me if a welded cylinder cost under 200.00 buy it! Labor to cut it open, reweld, and parts will eat up a 200 $ bill.
                              Some of the cylinders that I have had repaired cost upwards of 12,000 new, so many get repaired. On an average machine IE say 160 JD excavator the bucket cylinder is about 4500 new, so repairing cylinders is very common.
                              Kevin
                              Lincoln ranger 305g x2
                              Ln25
                              Miller spectrum 625
                              Miller 30a spoolgun
                              Wc115a
                              Lincoln 210mp
                              F550 imt service truck

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