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  • welding lens #

    What is the lens darkness number yall use for mig welding. I am using a flux cored btw. and what about stick welding. thanks.

  • #2
    I mostly use the auto hoods these days and vary the shade from 10-13, depending on light conditions and process/current. When I do wire and stick with my fixed shade hood, shade 11 works good for outdoors and shade 10 works good for indoors. I've used shade 12 with wire and it can be a little dark sometimes indoors or in low light areas but outdoors in the sunlight it works fine.
    Millermatic350P/Python, MillermaticReach/Q300
    Millermatic175
    MillermaticPassport/Q300
    HTP MIG200
    PowCon 300SM, MK Cobramatic
    ThermalArc 185ACDC, Dynaflux Tig'r, CK-20
    DialarcHF, Radiator-1
    Hypertherm PowerMax 380
    Purox oxy/ace
    Jackson EQC
    -F350 CrewCab 4x4
    -LoadNGo utility bed
    -Bobcat 250NT
    -PassportPlus/Q300
    -XMT304/Optima/Spoolmatic15A
    -Suitcase8RC/Q400
    -Suitcase12RC/Q300
    -Smith oxy/propane
    -Jackson EQC

    Comment


    • #3
      I use a Miller Elite. It has adjustable shades from 8-13. For stick welding, I set it at 10.5 or 11. But I go by what is comfortable with my eyes. If it seems too bright I'll turn it up some. If it's too dark, then I lower it.. It's all about what you are comfortable with looking at.

      Comment


      • #4
        I have a cheaper 7-13 auto darkening. but I was just thinking that if it is a low # it could hurt ur eyes. Like using a 7 setting or something but i read on lincoln electric.com that it doesn't matter about the # that is just the shade and that the lens should still keep out light. IDK if that is correct.

        Comment


        • #5
          OH and i also heard that u want to set it where u can still c ur weld puddle clearly and i went to North Georgia tech for a field trip and went to the welding class and thats the way they had there helmets fixed. JW if this is correct. thanks

          Comment


          • #6
            I only use two different shades #9 for tig and #10 for mig or stick. I have never had the need for anything darker. No auto-darkening crap hoods. they never have enough neck coverage anyways. I use and love my large view lincoln electric hood i bought from home depot. If you plan on using a good hood(again not an auto-darkening), never use the crappy plastic shade it comes with, everything looks way to orange IMHO(especially the gold ones). Find a glass one like a radnor(brand i use). it's like welding in HD compared to a plastic lens.

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by Jeep80CJ7 View Post
              I only use two different shades #9 for tig and #10 for mig or stick. I have never had the need for anything darker. No auto-darkening crap hoods. they never have enough neck coverage anyways. I use and love my large view lincoln electric hood i bought from home depot. If you plan on using a good hood(again not an auto-darkening), never use the crappy plastic shade it comes with, everything looks way to orange IMHO(especially the gold ones). Find a glass one like a radnor(brand i use). it's like welding in HD compared to a plastic lens.
              I have to laugh a little here.

              That Lincoln hood you bought at Home Depot is made by Jackson and is an HSL100, which is the same hood that Jackson uses in their EQC line of auto dark hoods, as well as their fixed shade hoods. That wide view HSL100 is also available with a 2x4 lens opening in the same shell shape/size. I have several Jackson hoods here, some auto dark, some fixed shade. All provide the same degree of neck/face coverage regardless of the lens type. Jackson sells their hoods to several other companies who also put their own names on the hoods. The HTP Striker line of hoods is made by Jackson too.

              Glass filter lenses are not used as the first (outter) lens in an arc welding hood. The clear polycarbonate safety cover lens is there first in line to cover and protect the glass filter lens from spatter pitting, as well as cracking/shattering, which will cause your face to have a an unpleasant day or few if it cuts you in the process. The safety lenses are also cheap to replace often as needed, versus replacing a much more expensive glass filter lens every few days when it becomes too pitted to see through anymore.

              Try that #10 shade on bright day outdoors for a day of heavy fluxcore or spray arc welding and tell me how your eyes feel at the end of the day and the next morning. Your local Airgas dealer will be happy to sell you a darker shade 4x5 Radnor filter lens to fit your Jackson Lincoln Home Depot hood.

              www.jacksonsafety.com
              www.htpweld.com
              Last edited by Desertrider33; 08-31-2009, 10:40 PM.
              Millermatic350P/Python, MillermaticReach/Q300
              Millermatic175
              MillermaticPassport/Q300
              HTP MIG200
              PowCon 300SM, MK Cobramatic
              ThermalArc 185ACDC, Dynaflux Tig'r, CK-20
              DialarcHF, Radiator-1
              Hypertherm PowerMax 380
              Purox oxy/ace
              Jackson EQC
              -F350 CrewCab 4x4
              -LoadNGo utility bed
              -Bobcat 250NT
              -PassportPlus/Q300
              -XMT304/Optima/Spoolmatic15A
              -Suitcase8RC/Q400
              -Suitcase12RC/Q300
              -Smith oxy/propane
              -Jackson EQC

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by chase1994 View Post
                I have a cheaper 7-13 auto darkening. but I was just thinking that if it is a low # it could hurt ur eyes. Like using a 7 setting or something but i read on lincoln electric.com that it doesn't matter about the # that is just the shade and that the lens should still keep out light. IDK if that is correct.

                OH and i also heard that u want to set it where u can still c ur weld puddle clearly and i went to North Georgia tech for a field trip and went to the welding class and thats the way they had there helmets fixed. JW if this is correct. thanks
                The lenses are typically supposed to keep out rays from certain harmful sections of the light spectrum. I have forgotten the names of them as it's been a number of years since I was in science class. However, if the shade is too light, the brightness will tire your eyes and make them more sensitive to bright light for a period of time after. My eyes hurt and tear for awhile when I use too light a shade for too long. I use the darkest shade I can still see the weld with.
                Millermatic350P/Python, MillermaticReach/Q300
                Millermatic175
                MillermaticPassport/Q300
                HTP MIG200
                PowCon 300SM, MK Cobramatic
                ThermalArc 185ACDC, Dynaflux Tig'r, CK-20
                DialarcHF, Radiator-1
                Hypertherm PowerMax 380
                Purox oxy/ace
                Jackson EQC
                -F350 CrewCab 4x4
                -LoadNGo utility bed
                -Bobcat 250NT
                -PassportPlus/Q300
                -XMT304/Optima/Spoolmatic15A
                -Suitcase8RC/Q400
                -Suitcase12RC/Q300
                -Smith oxy/propane
                -Jackson EQC

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by Desertrider33 View Post
                  I have to laugh a little here.

                  That Lincoln hood you bought at Home Depot is made by Jackson and is an HSL100, which is the same hood that Jackson uses in their EQC line of auto dark hoods, as well as their fixed shade hoods. That wide view HSL100 is also available with a 2x4 lens opening in the same shell shape/size. I have several Jackson hoods here, some auto dark, some fixed shade. All provide the same degree of neck/face coverage regardless of the lens type. Jackson sells their hoods to several other companies who also put their own names on the hoods. The HTP Striker line of hoods is made by Jackson too.

                  Glass filter lenses are not used as the first (outter) lens in an arc welding hood. The clear polycarbonate safety cover lens is there first in line to cover and protect the glass filter lens from spatter pitting, as well as cracking/shattering, which will cause your face to have a an unpleasant day or few if it cuts you in the process. The safety lenses are also cheap to replace often as needed, versus replacing a much more expensive glass filter lens every few days when it becomes too pitted to see through anymore.

                  Try that #10 shade on bright day outdoors for a day of heavy fluxcore or spray arc welding and tell me how your eyes feel at the end of the day and the next morning. Your local Airgas dealer will be happy to sell you a darker shade 4x5 Radnor filter lens to fit your Jackson Lincoln Home Depot hood.

                  www.jacksonsafety.com
                  www.htpweld.com




                  cool. you know alot about hoods. that's just awesome.


                  so anyways, he asked what we are using. From what I know that's what i use. me knowing anymore about the model or brand of hood makes me in no way a better welder. So i could care less to learn.

                  my hood costed me 30 bucks. 8 dollars for a #10 shade and same for the #9. alot cheaper than buying a worthless auto-darkening that makes you in no way a better welder.
                  Last edited by Jeep80CJ7; 08-31-2009, 11:02 PM.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    I don't know how that came off, but I didn't mean any offense to you. Welcome to the forum.
                    Millermatic350P/Python, MillermaticReach/Q300
                    Millermatic175
                    MillermaticPassport/Q300
                    HTP MIG200
                    PowCon 300SM, MK Cobramatic
                    ThermalArc 185ACDC, Dynaflux Tig'r, CK-20
                    DialarcHF, Radiator-1
                    Hypertherm PowerMax 380
                    Purox oxy/ace
                    Jackson EQC
                    -F350 CrewCab 4x4
                    -LoadNGo utility bed
                    -Bobcat 250NT
                    -PassportPlus/Q300
                    -XMT304/Optima/Spoolmatic15A
                    -Suitcase8RC/Q400
                    -Suitcase12RC/Q300
                    -Smith oxy/propane
                    -Jackson EQC

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      no i wasn't offended. I actually did think you were trying to be a d!ck, thought it was kind of amusing. So sorry for acting like a d!ck to you.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        No worries.

                        Weld on.
                        Millermatic350P/Python, MillermaticReach/Q300
                        Millermatic175
                        MillermaticPassport/Q300
                        HTP MIG200
                        PowCon 300SM, MK Cobramatic
                        ThermalArc 185ACDC, Dynaflux Tig'r, CK-20
                        DialarcHF, Radiator-1
                        Hypertherm PowerMax 380
                        Purox oxy/ace
                        Jackson EQC
                        -F350 CrewCab 4x4
                        -LoadNGo utility bed
                        -Bobcat 250NT
                        -PassportPlus/Q300
                        -XMT304/Optima/Spoolmatic15A
                        -Suitcase8RC/Q400
                        -Suitcase12RC/Q300
                        -Smith oxy/propane
                        -Jackson EQC

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          I run a #12 almost all the time. Indoors actually you should run a shade or two darker because your eyes are already dialated to take in as much light as posible so using the same shade indoors as you use outdoors is not very good on your eyes. Day and Night is even worse.
                          And I run a Hunstman 411P #12 Gold Lens. I can't stand auto darkening hoods They never worked for me and I'm rough on my gear so when I brake my Huntsman All it cost me is about $40 And cool paint job do nothing for me either. But to each there own
                          Miller Syncrowave 200 W/Radiator 1A & water cooled torch
                          Millermatic 252 on the wish list
                          Bridgeport Mill W/ 2 axis CNC control
                          South bend lathe 10LX40
                          K.O. Lee surface grinder 6X18
                          Over 20 years as a Machinist Toolmaker
                          A TWO CAR garage full of tools and a fridge full of beer
                          Auto shades are for rookies
                          www.KLStottlemyer.com

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            thanks guys. everyone has their opinion and diff. methods of welding, for me its easier to use a auto darkening helmet cuz i can see the welds before i start welding then the rays give off light so I can see while im welding. so for me I like to see what im doing at all times. plus Im mostly welding car panels and so i need to see where the panel is so I can tack it. thanks for the info. if u got more keep it coming.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by chase1994 View Post
                              What is the lens darkness number yall use for mig welding. I am using a flux cored btw. and what about stick welding. thanks.
                              I was told by an instructor once that if you see white spot's your lens is to light and if you see dark spot's the lens is to dark or vice versa. Lens choice is a personal thing. I use a #9 autolens but the safety glasses I wear are a #1 so I have a 10 in total. The reason I do this is when you work in the bright sunlight or snow in Canada when you flip your helmet up the sun or the snow makes you see spot's and when you are running beads or hot passing you don't have time for your eyes to adjust. Hope this helps. Jef

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