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  • Hour meter on air compressor

    220-single phase compressor.

    I would like to install an hour meter on my compressor, to more closely monitor maintenance..
    Which terminals would I connect to?

    or,

    To which terminals would I connect?
    Millermatic 211 AutoSet w/MVP
    Century 110 volt 90/110 MIG-Gone to my son, in Texas
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    Milwaukee Cold Cut Saw
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  • #2
    You'll need a 220v hobs meter, or a step down "control" transformer. The only other way is to use a four conductor power cord and have a neutral leg so that you can connect the hot to one side of the hobs and then the other to neutral. Ground never carries current.
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    And more machinery than you can shake a 7018 rod at

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    • #3
      I'd install a 120 volt hour meter, and pull power off of one side of the feed to the motor. Just make sure it is installed after the magnetic switch so that it will count actual running hours.
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      • #4
        Unless its a screw compressor, like a Quincy, I don't really see the point. Service should be done anyways in a time frame of your, or the manufacturers recomendations.

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        • #5
          Originally posted by cruizer View Post
          Unless its a screw compressor, like a Quincy, I don't really see the point. Service should be done anyways in a time frame of your, or the manufacturers recomendations.
          It is a Quincy piston compressor.
          I seldom use it, so would rather use an hour meter, than change oil and filters
          prematurely (and expensively), per manufacturer instructions.

          If I used it daily, it would fit their schedule better.
          Millermatic 211 AutoSet w/MVP
          Century 110 volt 90/110 MIG-Gone to my son, in Texas
          Victor SuperRange OA
          Milwaukee Cold Cut Saw
          Milwaukee Portable Deep Cut Bandsaw
          Milwaukee Hole Hawg
          Jet Horizontal/Vertical Bandsaw
          Jet MD-18 Mill Drill
          Orbit Drill Press
          12 Ton Floor Press
          2002 E-350 V-10:
          1983 F-150 4.9L 6
          2004 Honda ST1300
          2007 Suzuki LTA400F Quad
          1997 Suzuki DR650

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          • #6
            I am with the last post, if it is seldom used a change or 2 in its lifetime may be all that is needed. Not worth it, just the opposite for continuous use, a meter may make some sense. I run a lot, could likely use a change after years.

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            • #7
              Lack of running would be worse than running it all the time.

              You've got a big metal crank case which is generally going to stay cooler longer than the air coming into your shop as the temp is brought up to comfort levels, or even naturally in the summer - so now you've got condensation inside the pump.

              If you run it often, the pump will heat up and evaporate that water off, or at least splash oil around to help prevent the corrosion from occurring.

              Obviously, the best option is to simply keep the temp high enough so that condensation isn't an issue. Maybe put it on a timer so it automatically runs for 20 mins once a week?
              Syncrowave 250DX
              Invison 354MP
              XR Control and 30A

              Airco MED20 feeder
              Thermal Dynamics Cutmaster 81
              Smith O/A rig
              And more machinery than you can shake a 7018 rod at

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              • #8
                I agree with the thought that sitting is an issue but how long you think it takes to put 25 or 50 hrs on a comp in a home shop? In commercial environment there is a tendency to under rate the hrs and things often go neglected. A body shop comes to mind, I got one from a shop like that, tank filthy and water logged, air filter clogged and while the oil wasnt pristine it wasnt all that bad, the meter would have been put to better use tracking the water dump schedule.

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                • #9
                  I manually drain my water at the end of the day via a ball valve installed on an extension from under the unit.

                  You bring up a valid issue though - if the pump is automatically cycling, then it also needs an auto-drain.

                  Shop environments are typically horrible places for machinery. The operators often have little stake in whether the equipment lives or dies, so they could care less about draining the water out. Just as long as the moisture doesn't make it out the paint gun, they don't see an issue with a couple gallons rotting in the tank.

                  I bought some tool boxes from a guy who's dad had a small 4 bay mechanic shop and their quincy was a 120gal horizontal mounted from the rafters in a 20' tall building. They'd never drained it and he worked for him for 20 years prior to his father retiring. He said the pump was at least 40 years old. I don't think they ever changed the oil either.
                  Syncrowave 250DX
                  Invison 354MP
                  XR Control and 30A

                  Airco MED20 feeder
                  Thermal Dynamics Cutmaster 81
                  Smith O/A rig
                  And more machinery than you can shake a 7018 rod at

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    I would use a 120v meter and run it off one leg, or run it off the control wiring on the magnetic starter. I'm sure it will have a 120v coil.
                    Jeff

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Fishy Jim View Post
                      Maybe put it on a timer so it automatically runs for 20 mins once a week?
                      An automatic tank drain would leak off enough air to make the pump come on once every few days. Kill two birds with one stone.

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