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TIG Machine Recommendations

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  • TIG Machine Recommendations

    Sorry guys, I know there are several Tig machine threads, but most are pretty long.... I'm a novice, never TIG'd before and am considering a TIG in the near future just to get started in that direction once I get semi-competent w/ the MIG process. Most use would probably be thin sheet metal on auto bodies with some frame work.

    I really don't want to spend more than $2000, so that puts me in the Diversion 165, but A LOT of you guys have pounded the machine. The Dynasty 200 is an option if I save up a little more and does give the stick capability... I'm still a hack w/ the MIG so keep that in mind.... So a few questions:

    1. I found the Dynasty on eBay, but it says 200DX. Is there a difference between a 200 and a 200DX??

    2. Does the stick that the 200 supports provide sufficient capability to cover most 1/4" applications (say for home use, building hot rods, that stuff..)??

    3. Can you weld thin gauge sheet metal (like 22) effectively w/ a Diversion 165 w/o the problems w/ distortion/warpage associated w/ a MIG or O/A?

    4. How about the upper end of capabilities of a D165 (again - the 1/4" stuff.... (I know their ads say chassis construction, but that's a little lighter).....

    Thanks in advance for responding to yet another machine recommendation - also, if you know of a good thread on the subject (I could have overlooked it), just direct me to that instead of wearing out your fingers....
    Last edited by AlphaRat; 02-18-2009, 10:15 PM.

  • #2
    Hey, I don't need to post this thread - found another post similar. How can I delete the thread?

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    • #3
      Go to "edit" on your first post and it will ask you if you want to delete the entire thread. Just say yes.
      Dynasty 350DX
      Dynasty 200DX TigRunner
      MM 350P
      MM Passport Plus
      Spectrum 375 Extreme
      08' Trailblazer 302

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      • #4
        Alpha,

        Before you delete, the 200DX is the one you want. It's the 200 with the bells & whistles.
        "When the wise old rooster crows, the smart young rooster listens."

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        • #5
          Thanks Spoon...

          I can't delete this thing - it won't give me the option to do it.... Can anyone else?? Otherwise it will just sit here.....

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          • #6
            You might want to borrow or rent one before you go out and spend big bucks on a tig machine. The learning curve is steep, and to be honest a percentage of people don't have the eye hand and foot coordination to do it. I won't even talk about welding aluminum or stainless.
            Wheat Stalker

            Millermatic 210
            Dynasty 200DX
            Fisher CZ-5...CZ-3D..
            Trek 5500
            1966 Amphicar

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            • #7
              Originally posted by Wheat View Post
              You might want to borrow or rent one before you go out and spend big bucks on a tig machine. The learning curve is steep, and to be honest a percentage of people don't have the eye hand and foot coordination to do it. I won't even talk about welding aluminum or stainless.
              I can walk and, uh, well I can walk at the same time... Does that count?? Actually rent is a good idea - hadn't thought about that. However, gauging how long it is taking me to get the hang of MIG, I'd have to rent the thing for 5 years to determine my TIG prowess. Maybe that is my answer right there, huh....

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              • #8
                Originally posted by AlphaRat View Post
                I can walk and, uh, well I can walk at the same time... Does that count?? Actually rent is a good idea - hadn't thought about that. However, gauging how long it is taking me to get the hang of MIG, I'd have to rent the thing for 5 years to determine my TIG prowess. Maybe that is my answer right there, huh....
                Hey A-R,
                I know I harp on this.....but if you planning on doing body work on "old" steel...I would maybe think twice about Tig. BTW the Diversion is a great machine, and probably well suited for what you want. Anyway reason I am warning you is that I have been down this path, and the old pitted steels can cause a lot of trouble. Also I have noticed that the grade and type of steels varied greatly on the bodies, even on the same car, and some grades get harder then all heck when Tig welded. I had it happed to me on the front fenders of a 39 ford. Thought I would be smart and Tig in a repair to save me some time working the part out....yeah it didnt go that way. The steel got so hard it was like hitting a spring! Had to anneal the part to get it to come out.
                Anyway just a word of caution...from someone who has gotten their rear bitten and isnt about to try that again
                -Aaron
                "Better Metalworking Through Research"

                Miller Dynasty 300DX
                Miller Dynasty 200DX
                Miller Spectrum 375 extreme
                Miller Millermatic Passport

                Miller Spot Welder
                Motor-Guard stud welder

                Smith, Meco, Oxweld , Cronatron, Harris, Victor, National, Prest-o-weld, Prest-o-lite, Marquette, Century Aircraft, Craftsman, Goss, Uniweld, Purox, Linde, Eutectic, and Dillon welding torches from 1909 to Present. (58 total)

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                • #9
                  Aero, thanks for the insight. I can't afford a TIG right now anyway, so I'm just dreaming and kicking tires. i think the advise of mastering the O/A before trying TIG is a lot cheaper option - plus I agree w/ you that O/A is probably a better solution for what I am doing.... I am doing the MIG dance on the deck lid right now and so far so good thanks to the help and suggestions from you expert dudes. However I do have some panels I need to work on that may be more accessible to the O/A method you endorse. Thanks for stepping up to the plate and calling me out.

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