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  • anodized aluminum

    Will the Diversion 165 perform well on anodized aluminum pipe, such as marine applications? I understand a Dynasty would be better, but I just weld my own stuff, not for a living; and was curious if i could get by with the smaller machine?

    thanks,

    Brent

  • #2
    Brent,
    Kind of depends on what thickness you need to weld. It works good with the hand control because it has a button for starting the arc and can be used to bump weld the anodized. It would work well on 1/8" and under.
    I'll go out and try it on some thicker stuff and let you know.

    Andy

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    • #3
      Brent,

      Was getting ready to answer, but Andy beat me to it.

      Oh, what the heck, I'll comment anyway.

      As Andy said, it depends on the thickness and a couple other factors.

      If you're talking hobby welding a couple of rodholders on your boat, the answer would be probably. Especially if you cleaned the area to be welded of the anodizing.

      If you're talking about building a T-top or a tower, I would say no.

      The Diversion would not work for me at all. Even the Dynasty 200 is underpowered and lacks the duty cycle for "serious" marine fabrication. When I'm bump welding anodized aluminum, I'm normally running in the 195-200A range. The fitting has already been done so there's a lot of near continuous welding to be done. The Sync 250/350 or the Dynasty 300/350 are the machines you'll most commonly see used in this application.

      I've heard of guys (on this board) who say they bump weld at 150A or so, but that hasn't worked well for me in the past. I've found it takes a rather forceful arc to blow the oxides from the weld pool.

      Be interesting to hear what Andy says about how the Diversion performs.

      That's just my .02
      Syncrowave 250 DX Tigrunner
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      • #4
        Bump weld? How does that work?

        Steve
        Dont force it, use a BIGGER hammer.

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        • #5
          Steve,

          Bump welding is a process whereby anodized aluminum can be welded without removing the anodizing prior to welding.

          Real basic. You use a momentary (on-off) switch/button and relatively high amps and manually pulse your weld bead.

          There have been many threads detailing the process. Do a search. Process was developed by Pipewelders of Ft. Lauderdale.
          Syncrowave 250 DX Tigrunner
          Dynasty 200 DX
          Miller XMT 304 w/714D Feeder & Optima Control
          Miller MM 251 w/Q300 & 30A SG
          Hobart HH187
          Dialarc 250 AC/DC
          Hypertherm PM 600 & 1250
          Wilton 7"x12" bandsaw
          PC Dry Cut Saw, Dewalt Chop Saw
          Milwaukee 8" Metal Cut Saw, Milwaukee Portaband.
          Thermco and Smith (2) Gas Mixers
          More grinders than hands

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          • #6
            hmmm if you remove the Anodizing is it really welding Anodized
            Ed Conley
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            • #7
              Broc,

              What came first, the chicken or the egg.

              Were you referring to "removing the anodizing prior to welding" (my first statement) or the bump method which blows the oxides aside while welding?

              If you're talking about the first case, then I guess you wouldn't be welding anodized.

              When bump welding you also use a high EN setting (minimum cleaning-about a 7 on the Sync) which minimizes the etched area adjacent to the weld bead. Post welding, the beads are painted. (I use silver rustoleum)
              Syncrowave 250 DX Tigrunner
              Dynasty 200 DX
              Miller XMT 304 w/714D Feeder & Optima Control
              Miller MM 251 w/Q300 & 30A SG
              Hobart HH187
              Dialarc 250 AC/DC
              Hypertherm PM 600 & 1250
              Wilton 7"x12" bandsaw
              PC Dry Cut Saw, Dewalt Chop Saw
              Milwaukee 8" Metal Cut Saw, Milwaukee Portaband.
              Thermco and Smith (2) Gas Mixers
              More grinders than hands

              Comment


              • #8
                thanks for the info. i figure most of the pipe i would be welding would not be any thicker than 1/8", but i guess the lack of balance control on the Diversion would be a downside?

                Comment


                • #9
                  Report

                  The Diversion on anodized did ok on 1/8" and under. I "glued" some 1/4 but it took awhile to get enough heat into the material to get it to fuse at all. Also there was no real root penetration although the toes tied in nice.
                  My advice here is 1/8" max. Anything thicker takes too long and your bump spots aren't nearly as clean and the crater seems larger.
                  Normally when I do this material, I like setting the output freq down to 80 or even 60 to get a wider bump tack. With the Diversion, you can not adjust the freq.
                  Bottom line is yes it works.
                  Not on thicker material.
                  Not my first choice of machines for this material.

                  Andy

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Andy,

                    Just sitting here laughing.

                    You're experiencing the same thing I did on my buddies Dynasty 300. As we've discussed, the 300 is a great machine, but when all is said and done, with bump welding anodized aluminum, you're setting up dang near where you are with the Syncrowave 250.

                    Do appreciate your feedback on the Diversion.
                    Syncrowave 250 DX Tigrunner
                    Dynasty 200 DX
                    Miller XMT 304 w/714D Feeder & Optima Control
                    Miller MM 251 w/Q300 & 30A SG
                    Hobart HH187
                    Dialarc 250 AC/DC
                    Hypertherm PM 600 & 1250
                    Wilton 7"x12" bandsaw
                    PC Dry Cut Saw, Dewalt Chop Saw
                    Milwaukee 8" Metal Cut Saw, Milwaukee Portaband.
                    Thermco and Smith (2) Gas Mixers
                    More grinders than hands

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Sun,

                      True.
                      Except at less that half the input power and no primary tranformer surge.

                      I do like the Syncs larger HF for starting through the anodized. It fires off no problem where sometimes the Dynasty's smaller HF has a hard time hitting that first time to transfer weld current.

                      If I had to do this stuff all day everyday and power $$ was not an issue, I'd use the Sync 250. But anodized is only a fraction of what I do.

                      A-

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Andy,

                        Agree wholeheartedly.

                        Still want a Dynasty 300 though. With that said, the new Dynasty 200 DX with the Blue Lightening technology and the additional waveforms is looking better and better. However, unless something changes drastically, there will always be a Sync in the shop.

                        Just cause the horse has had a few birthdays, doesn't mean she can't still pull the cart.
                        Syncrowave 250 DX Tigrunner
                        Dynasty 200 DX
                        Miller XMT 304 w/714D Feeder & Optima Control
                        Miller MM 251 w/Q300 & 30A SG
                        Hobart HH187
                        Dialarc 250 AC/DC
                        Hypertherm PM 600 & 1250
                        Wilton 7"x12" bandsaw
                        PC Dry Cut Saw, Dewalt Chop Saw
                        Milwaukee 8" Metal Cut Saw, Milwaukee Portaband.
                        Thermco and Smith (2) Gas Mixers
                        More grinders than hands

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          anodized aluminum welding

                          Hey guys I wanted to chime in if I may. Through the help of some of the guys on this forum I have welded alot of anod. aluminum. I have made several t -tops and leaning posts all with my Dynasty 200DX. I must say although it can do it the machine is maxxed out. I am awaiting the delivery of my used Dynasty 300DX I cant wait to use it and not have to preheat the thicker material. I wont bother with the details but if someone needs setting info or has questions I will be happy to help because if it were not for the help of guys here I wouldnt have the slightest idea where to start. Thanks again to all that helped me out.
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