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  • Backpurging pipe HELP GUYS

    Hey guys my name is Ryan and I am an aviation tig welder and fabricator of custom turbo kits on the side. I do A LOT of pipe welding and I REALLLLY need to find plugs I can use for the ends of my tubing to backpurge with and I do not have the time to make them and I know someone out there makes them. I searched and searched and couldnt find anything please help me out. Thx guys
    Ryan.

    P.S. the pipe im welding is 1.25/1.5/2.0" ID

  • #2
    SS Pipe

    Teglove2: There's 3 Forum members that might be able to help you. KB Fabrication, Turbo38t, and Fusionking all work with stainless (pretty sure). If nothing else, send them a PM if you don't hear from them soon. I'm sure there are many others, but these 3 come to my mind "right off the bat."

    Good Luck

    Dave
    "Bonne journe'e mes amis"

    Comment


    • #3
      If I don't have the right size plug I break out the masking tape and paper .
      Dynasty 200DX "Blue Lightning"
      Bernard 3500ss water-cooler
      Rockwell vertical mill
      Beverly Shear B-3
      Beverly Shear JR
      Home-made English wheel
      Milwaukee Porta-band
      " Sawz-all
      Tennsmith 36" stomp shear
      Fixer upper 1968 Redface Lincoln sa200
      Powcon 300st

      Comment


      • #4
        A plastic end cap off of the pipe that the manufacturer sends the pipe wth works well if the end to purge has no flange to interfere wth.Other options are purge paper,cardboard,foil or maskin tape.
        2- XMT's 350 cc/cv
        1- Blue star 185
        1- BOBCAT 250
        1- TRAILBLAZER 302
        1- MILLER DVI
        2- PASSPORT PLUS
        1- DYNASTY 200 DX
        1- DYNASTY 280 DX
        1- MAXSTAR 150 STL
        1- HF-251 BOX
        1- S-74D
        1- S-75DXA
        2- 12-RC SUITCASES
        1- 8-VS SUITCASE
        2- 30 A SPOOLGUNS

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by Showdog75 View Post
          If I don't have the right size plug I break out the masking tape and paper .
          That's really all you need. Argon so readily displaces atmosphere that setting up a purge is not difficult at all. In fact, You don't want any kind of airtight seal as it would negate the positive pressure that a little "leaking" will provide. Lots of times I will just use a spring clamp to attach the argon hose inside a tube and then just tape around the whole thing. Blue painters tape works very well as it leaves no residue behind. Of course, that is dependent on how close you are to the seam but aluminum foil works equally as well.

          If you really are
          Originally posted by Teglove2
          an aviation tig welder and fabricator of custom turbo kits on the side
          then this should be a no-brainer. If you really need to have some off the shelf products for your application and have plenty of cash, you might try a google search.

          http://www.cob-industries.com/argweld.htm
          Dynasty 350DX
          Dynasty 200DX TigRunner
          MM 350P
          MM Passport Plus
          Spectrum 375 Extreme
          08' Trailblazer 302

          Comment


          • #6
            thx for the quick replys fellas but nothing that was said can help me...the tubing gets VERY HOT and I cannot use any sort of tape I need metal plugs with holes I saw a guy on a honda forum that builds manifolds and he had a billet plug and thats what I need but in 3 sizes like stated above. Tape is also too weak and when I put the argon line in the tape the weight of the line itself tears the tape and leaves a nasty residue thats very hard to get off.

            Comment


            • #7
              Cut two sheet metal disks (22Ga or so) a little larger than OD of tube

              Notch edge in a dozen or so places to form tabs

              Bend tabs over to fit the OD of the tube

              (you can also notch and bend to fit ID)

              Drill hole in center of one disk for hose fitting.

              Stick one over each end of the tubing (if needed, squeeze a couple of the tabs tighter to hold in place, or use a hose clamp over the tabs) and turn on the gas.

              You don't need or want a tight fit... if there isn't the ability for some venting, pressure buildup will make closing up nearly impossible. If there is too much leakage, wrap (or stuff into the ends under the caps) some kaowool to cut it down.

              Low flow rates fed from the bottom are better (less mixing while purging)

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by enlpck View Post
                Cut two sheet metal disks (22Ga or so) a little larger than OD of tube

                Notch edge in a dozen or so places to form tabs

                Bend tabs over to fit the OD of the tube

                (you can also notch and bend to fit ID)

                Drill hole in center of one disk for hose fitting.

                Stick one over each end of the tubing (if needed, squeeze a couple of the tabs tighter to hold in place, or use a hose clamp over the tabs) and turn on the gas.

                You don't need or want a tight fit... if there isn't the ability for some venting, pressure buildup will make closing up nearly impossible. If there is too much leakage, wrap (or stuff into the ends under the caps) some kaowool to cut it down.

                Low flow rates fed from the bottom are better (less mixing while purging)
                More good advice but the OP said he doesn't have the time to make anything. Anywho, commercial products like this are easy to find but you have to know what to type into a search engine.

                http://www.arc-zone.com/index.php?ma...x&cPath=10_616

                ROFLMAO, hold onto your wallet.
                Dynasty 350DX
                Dynasty 200DX TigRunner
                MM 350P
                MM Passport Plus
                Spectrum 375 Extreme
                08' Trailblazer 302

                Comment


                • #9
                  Of course, I SHOULD mention that pretty much all I use is aluminum foil. Slap it over the end and squeeze. Then again, I don't have the need to purge very often. A length of brake line (I think its brake line... looks like brake line and the same size) on the end on the hose bends whatever way needed to hang the hose off the work, and is also heat resistant, and the foil squeezes over this as well as a plain end.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Lets see,

                    Speed tape

                    heavy duty alluminum foil (use some safety wire to secure if necessary)

                    Take some scrap pipe and pound annealed aluminum over the end to make a cap

                    cap a piece of scrap pipe, grind a taper in it and tap it into the hole

                    Find a machine shop

                    fiberglass cloth

                    steel wool?

                    If the hose is melting shove a piece of soft copper in it and bend the copper into a hook.

                    As a Fabricator, this is really something you should make to suit your needs. If you want to buy it your certainly entitled but its something like a chef ordering out. Hope you don't take that the wrong way!
                    Dynasty 200 DX
                    Millermatic 175
                    Spectrum 375
                    All kinds of Smith OA gear

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by KB Fabrications View Post
                      That's really all you need. Argon so readily displaces atmosphere that setting up a purge is not difficult at all. In fact, You don't want any kind of airtight seal as it would negate the positive pressure that a little "leaking" will provide. Lots of times I will just use a spring clamp to attach the argon hose inside a tube and then just tape around the whole thing. Blue painters tape works very well as it leaves no residue behind. Of course, that is dependent on how close you are to the seam but aluminum foil works equally as well.

                      If you really are then this should be a no-brainer. If you really need to have some off the shelf products for your application and have plenty of cash, you might try a google search.

                      http://www.cob-industries.com/argweld.htm
                      D@MN KB!! You hit the nail on the head with THAT link!! I thought it was $20 for a bunch, but when I went to the price list, I saw what you mean!!
                      I'm not late...
                      I'm just on Hawaiian Time

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by KB Fabrications View Post
                        That's really all you need. Argon so readily displaces atmosphere that setting up a purge is not difficult at all. In fact, You don't want any kind of airtight seal as it would negate the positive pressure that a little "leaking" will provide. Lots of times I will just use a spring clamp to attach the argon hose inside a tube and then just tape around the whole thing. Blue painters tape works very well as it leaves no residue behind. Of course, that is dependent on how close you are to the seam but aluminum foil works equally as well.

                        If you really are then this should be a no-brainer. If you really need to have some off the shelf products for your application and have plenty of cash, you might try a google search.

                        http://www.cob-industries.com/argweld.htm
                        D@MN KB!! You hit the nail on the head with THAT link!! I thought it was $20 for a bunch, but when I went to the price list, I saw what you meant!!
                        I'm not late...
                        I'm just on Hawaiian Time

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by KB Fabrications View Post
                          That's really all you need. Argon so readily displaces atmosphere that setting up a purge is not difficult at all. In fact, You don't want any kind of airtight seal as it would negate the positive pressure that a little "leaking" will provide. Lots of times I will just use a spring clamp to attach the argon hose inside a tube and then just tape around the whole thing. Blue painters tape works very well as it leaves no residue behind. Of course, that is dependent on how close you are to the seam but aluminum foil works equally as well.

                          If you really are then this should be a no-brainer. If you really need to have some off the shelf products for your application and have plenty of cash, you might try a google search.

                          http://www.cob-industries.com/argweld.htm
                          WOW KB!! You hit the nail on the head with THAT link!! I thought it was $20 for a bunch, but when I went to the price list, I saw what you meant!!
                          I'm not late...
                          I'm just on Hawaiian Time

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            One loaf of french bread will make about a dozen custom-fit header backpurging plugs. It's porous, non-hazardous, flame retardant, conforms to curves, leaves no glue residue, and it's dirt cheap. Another benefit is that if you have a weld where it would be difficult or impossible to remove the baffle afterward just flush the tubing with water and the bread will disintegrate and be harmlessly flushed away. Chore-Boy brand stainless scouring pads work well as dams too. Under $2 at almost any supermarket. Pads

                            My backpurging hose is regular inert gas line with a short piece of steel fuel line press fit onto the end. I use a Harris 356 twin regulator with two independent flowmeters (one for torch, one for purge) but some people just use a Y fitting and up their flow rate slightly to compensate for purging losses.

                            If you want a real backpurging dam, look at picture on the bottom left of page 40 and copy the design when you have some spare time to goof around.http://www.millerwelds.com/resources...Book_Chpt4.pdf
                            2007 Miller Dynasty 200 DX
                            2005 Miller Passport 180

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              "Italian Ingenuity or French Fantasia"

                              Originally posted by MR.57 View Post
                              One loaf of french bread will make about a dozen custom-fit header backpurging plugs. It's porous, non-hazardous, flame retardant, conforms to curves, leaves no glue residue, and it's dirt cheap. Another benefit is that if you have a weld where it would be difficult or impossible to remove the baffle afterward just flush the tubing with water and the bread will disintegrate and be harmlessly flushed away. Chore-Boy brand stainless scouring pads work well as dams too. Under $2 at almost any supermarket. Pads

                              My backpurging hose is regular inert gas line with a short piece of steel fuel line press fit onto the end. I use a Harris 356 twin regulator with two independent flowmeters (one for torch, one for purge) but some people just use a Y fitting and up their flow rate slightly to compensate for purging losses.

                              If you want a real backpurging dam, look at picture on the bottom left of page 40 and copy the design when you have some spare time to goof around.http://www.millerwelds.com/resources...Book_Chpt4.pdf
                              With or without garlic and butter? Sorry, I couldn't resist. Very good idea, however!
                              Last edited by davedarragh; 12-26-2008, 12:36 PM.
                              "Bonne journe'e mes amis"

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