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1940's Willys CJ2A

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  • #16
    I haven't actually touched a vertical mill in many years - you almost could say it was another life

    They seem to be reasonably priced these days, but I haven't found much around here (SF Bay Area, CA). A few local tool shops, etc. have my phone number in case something reasonable comes up.

    I'd love to find an old Hardinge tool room lathe too, but realize that's really an impossible dream.


    Originally posted by cncmachinist View Post
    you wont believe this is bought two at auction for 1200 a piece with old kurt vise that still work


    the back of the machine on the manufactures plate its stamped USACE or united states army corps of engineers 1946

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    • #17
      I have a taig lathe and sherline 5400 mill. weee.

      Gus check out my youtube channel. I make movies whenever I can its another hobby.

      so I did another attempt. this time I tried rotating the torch and took down my wire speed some.









      only thing, it warps way to easy. I am thinking when I work on my jeep I will do some anchoring welds like that then turn it down some where I can control it easier.

      im sure it would hold.

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      • #18
        ok there starting to get into the butter zone of the welds

        check your gas theres burn on the sides of your welds it could be set to low
        leave the wire speed its good but crank the voltage up theres not enough wet out for body panels
        hold the tack for the same amount of time and alternate along the seem when welding it in the car to avoid warping and let the metal cool down some

        keep practicing and experimenting with the setting to get it really nice
        Leblond Makino mills
        HAAS CNC SL-40 lathe
        American Pacemaker lathe
        wells index mill
        hydrotel rebuilt
        syncrowave 250
        diversion 165
        Miller Elite Vintage USA

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        • #19
          Looking good

          trial and error...with a few questions to the people who know..will eventually produce the desired result. It doesn't look bad but there is room for improvement. With a little effort the end result will be this picture. Good luck.
          Attached Files

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          • #20
            Originally posted by gusb View Post
            I haven't actually touched a vertical mill in many years - you almost could say it was another life

            They seem to be reasonably priced these days, but I haven't found much around here (SF Bay Area, CA). A few local tool shops, etc. have my phone number in case something reasonable comes up.

            I'd love to find an old Hardinge tool room lathe too, but realize that's really an impossible dream.
            Too bad you're not in Ohio there are a few Hardinge tool room lathes in the northeast section of the state and not too terribly priced but the shipping to the bay area would kill any decent deal you might be able to make.
            Blondie (Owner C & S Automotive)

            Colt the original point & click interface!

            Millermatic 35 with spot panel
            Miller 340A/BP
            Victor O/A torches
            Lincoln SP125
            Too many other tools to list

            03 Ram 1500
            78 GS1000
            82 GL1100 Interstate

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            • #21
              Heat Sink, Hammer + Dollie, Easy Grind

              Let your welds cool on their own, do not force cooling with air or damp rag, doing so will in fact make the distortions worse and the welds more brittle and prone to cracking than if you let it cool on it's own. Also try a heat sink on the backside of the weld to draw excess heat out. Use Aluminum or Copper as a heat sink, weld won''t stick to it and will minimize warpage, especially on thse flat panels. Regardless of what you do, distortion is imminent, how you deal with it affects your finish. Also turn up the heat a bit more, it would be nice to see better fusion on the backside of those welds, that is an ideal spot to re-introduce rust. Rather than tack beside tack, run a 1/2" to 1" continuous bead to make sure there are no voids. If you do decide to run a series of tacks, cover 1/3 to 1/2 half of the previous tack to prevent those rust causing voids around the tacks.Esab Easy-Grind wire 0.23" is a good choice, not quite as brittle as standard wire plus it grinds easier and distorts less. Try hammer and dolly method (You Tube) to flatten those welds a little meaning less grinding heat build-up and distortion. Warpage is a fact, you're going to have to deal with it regardless, so just keep practicing until your technique produces the least amount of distortion and once you finish welding, your next job will be to straighten out those welds, Every weld is better than the last...practice, practice, practice and keep up the good work, the more you prepare, the better.......there's my 2 pennies worth.
              Acklands (Miller) N-250-HF
              Lincoln 180c
              SG100 Spoolgun
              Lincoln Pro Cut 55 Plasma
              O/A

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              • #22
                Here is a thread that I thought had some amazing skill in it and I learned a good amount from it.
                http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/s...G+PATCH+PANELS

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