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Please Help I want to learn build Funny Car Chassis

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  • Please Help I want to learn build Funny Car Chassis

    I am looking to taking on the task of building me a drag racing funny car chassis . Now the kit I am looking it has already pre bent and notched tubing. I am a complete rookie at this and been reading all the resources on this site. How hard would this be to do? Does anyone have expeirance in building a jig to do this? Any help would be great. As a rooking would the $1700 tig welder Diversion 165 be ok to use? PLEASE HELP ME!!!

  • #2
    Why limit yourself to such a simple job as this? A person with your ambition should be building his own rocketship, to go to the moon with!!

    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by eddiejr79 View Post
      I am looking to taking on the task of building me a drag racing funny car chassis . Now the kit I am looking it has already pre bent and notched tubing. I am a complete rookie at this and been reading all the resources on this site. How hard would this be to do? Does anyone have expeirance in building a jig to do this? Any help would be great. As a rooking would the $1700 tig welder Diversion 165 be ok to use? PLEASE HELP ME!!!
      In the order of the questions...
      #1 Pretty hard even for exp. and certified pros....you must be a top notch welder and have a full knowledge of the material and the procedure.
      #2 A few people on here have but not sure if they are posting regularly.
      #3 Yes, that welder would be ok if you were the guy in question #1.

      Even if you did this you still must pass inspection to run this and it would probably NEVER even pass a visual test if done by a rookie learning how to weld.
      In a nutshell...This would be about like deciding you wanted to go skydiving for a new hobby but wanted to sew up your own parachute and you went to a sewing forum and asked about how the new Brother machine would work.

      Comment


      • #4
        A chassis kit is NOT the place to learn on!!!

        You need to have better than decent fabrication and TIG skills to build a safe and tech-legal chassis to run in any form of competition!

        If you have not had the experience fitting up the tubing and gaining the right clearances before TIG welding them, you will make more of a mess and end up wasting money and time on something you will not be able to run at the track! Even pre-bent and pre-notched kits need additional work and tweeking to make the proper fit-up since TIG is not the right process to "fill-in" large gaps!

        The Diversion 165 is a decent home and small shop unit! Some PRO shops have it in their track trailers and do very good work with it! In the hands of a skilled operator, it will provide a good tool to do the job of chassis fabrication and repairs.

        Since you stated you are a complete rookie, I highly suggest you take some classes and practice! Practice! Practice!!!! Get out and visit some shops and builders! See if you can make contact with people at the races and car shows to see if you can get in their shops and learn and gain experience!

        Maybe you have some skills and can have a better eye for detail than the average person. You might be able to learn and do this on your own! But the law of averages and percentages are realistically against them.

        I'm not trying to discourage you but with the way liabilities are these days, you could be held responsible if the car breaks and hurts the driver or spectators! So it really pays to gain the skills and proficiency where you can do top notch welds that are safe and secure! In almost any case, this level of quality skills only come with experience as well as desire!

        Good luck!

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        • #5
          Thank You

          Thank you to the both of you for steering me in the right directions and nocking some sense into me. I will still one day try to pursue it however for now the best bet is to buy one already made. Thanks again.

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          • #6
            I built my own mild steel chassis and it passed NHRA/IHRA 7.50 cert first time. I went with mild steel because I didn't trust my C/M welding skills & faster than 7.50 is faster than my pocket book can go anyway.

            C/M F/C is an every year recert compared to every 3 years for a 25.4 M/S chassis.

            If you do buy a ready built chassis, make sure it has a current cert tag so you know for a fact it will pass. If you buy an uncerted or out of cert chassis and it doesn't pass, you may be stuck with a pile of pipes that's only worth scrap price.

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            • #7
              A friend of mine and I have done alot of work to drag cars and he works on a top fuel team for Ihra up here in canada he would likely throw ur kit together fairly cheap VICTORY RACE PRODUCTS 1 519 802 2917 his name is Mark if u'd be interested. Dont be to discouraged tho i've learned the tigging part of it fairly quick and u just gotta practice, practice practice and when u think its looking good and ur their, ur not practice some more lol!!!

              Pics are of an Outlaw 10.5 car we did some sheetmetal on
              Attached Files

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              • #8
                Originally posted by JoshGlover View Post
                A friend of mine and I have done alot of work to drag cars and he works on a top fuel team for Ihra up here in canada he would likely throw ur kit together fairly cheap VICTORY RACE PRODUCTS 1 519 802 2917 his name is Mark if u'd be interested. Dont be to discouraged tho i've learned the tigging part of it fairly quick and u just gotta practice, practice practice and when u think its looking good and ur their, ur not practice some more lol!!!

                Pics are of an Outlaw 10.5 car we did some sheetmetal on
                jeeze that blower is tiny lol

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by UH60LCHIEF View Post
                  jeeze that blower is tiny lol
                  Is that an F-3? I saw a prototype F-4 @ the Drag Expo a while back.

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                  • #10
                    Honestly I have no Idea that engine was nuts thats all i Know! thought he said it was the biggest procharger they made at the time? but dont quote me on that?

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                    • #11
                      Must be an F-3. The F-4 is still in the prototype stage, or at least it still was in Feb. The rep. at the booth said the F-4 is designed to compete with the 1471 pro mod set-ups.

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                      • #12
                        When I first looked at the pic I was thinking "has this pic been photochopped?" That thing is huge

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                        • #13
                          Hi eddiejr79
                          What class do you intend to run as the specs for the alcohol class and Top Fuel class as well as the fast bracket classes have different standards that must be met. I agree that you should have top notch TIG welding skills before you attempt to weld this but those skills are obtainable through practice. The jig is a very important part of this project. My brother and I made our jig for this very purpose. We spent around 80-100 hours to make our jig perfect. I have also spent many hours refining it for our use. The jig is something you can fabricate while you are working on your TIG skills as it can be MIG welded.
                          Don't give up if this is your dream.

                          As for buying an already running car be careful. Most alcohol and fuel cars out there are pretty well used up. They only last so many runs and are worn out. One other thing you can look for is a car that the front half is damaged and bent. You can do what we call "Front half" the chassis from the rear motorplate forward as the rear section is much stronger and harder to bend. You still have to make sure that it has not been "tweaked" and meets the latest SFI specifications for the class you intend to run. Good Luck, Rascal

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                          • #14
                            Thank you Rascal

                            Thank you, My intentions were to run it as a bracket car for starters. I see your idea about the front half, I have come across alot of those and thought about it but figured it may not be worth it. Then I thought of the worn out however the flexing takes place fromt he motor plate forward doesnt it? I did come across one for cheap that needed the front half. I should have grabbed it but I was afraid to. I dont have a big budget so I have to make wise decisions. Thanks again.

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                            • #15
                              Chassis Welding & Jig Fab

                              I taught myself how to weld so I could go racing. After building dozens of cars, and being involved in several high-speed crashes I have never broken a weld. The trick is to practice a bunch before you get started, do some destructive testing on your samples, make every connection a perfect fit, and be sure to have enough heat to get ample penetration.

                              As for the JIG, I have built a few, a 1" steel plate is the best but costs like crazy. I built a few others that were 8" I beam directly under the main frame of the chassis. Just make sure the top of both beams are in the same plane. Us a laser level before and after welding.

                              Scott
                              www.welders360.com

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