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  • tubing weld

    Making a sub frame brace. Wanted some feedback on my welds. Here is a sample.



    http://i826.photobucket.com/albums/z...2/DSCN0701.jpg
    Last edited by chrisevo8; 03-08-2010, 10:12 PM.

  • #2
    Originally posted by chrisevo8 View Post
    Making a sub frame brace. Wanted some feedback on my welds. Here is a sample.



    http://i826.photobucket.com/albums/z...2/DSCN0701.jpg
    Overall OK, two things jump out at me. One is some undercut, and the other is how small the reinforcement is. I assume you want this to hold together, in which case I would practice larger fillets, eliminate ALL undercut, work on fluid smooth consistent welding. If 4130 heavily consider tempering afterwards.
    -Aaron
    "Better Metalworking Through Research"

    Miller Dynasty 300DX
    Miller Dynasty 200DX
    Miller Spectrum 375 extreme
    Miller Millermatic Passport

    Miller Spot Welder
    Motor-Guard stud welder

    Smith, Meco, Oxweld , Cronatron, Harris, Victor, National, Prest-o-weld, Prest-o-lite, Marquette, Century Aircraft, Craftsman, Goss, Uniweld, Purox, Linde, Eutectic, and Dillon welding torches from 1909 to Present. (58 total)

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    • #3
      So I should add a bit more filler then and build up the bead?

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by chrisevo8 View Post
        So I should add a bit more filler then and build up the bead?
        Yes, and keep in consistent. Undercutting is a bad deal, and just one half scallop of undercut from "under dabbing" one dab can be a good place for a crack to start. Also think of it as not letting the puddle run away from the filler, keep the puddle well "filled" the whole time.
        "Better Metalworking Through Research"

        Miller Dynasty 300DX
        Miller Dynasty 200DX
        Miller Spectrum 375 extreme
        Miller Millermatic Passport

        Miller Spot Welder
        Motor-Guard stud welder

        Smith, Meco, Oxweld , Cronatron, Harris, Victor, National, Prest-o-weld, Prest-o-lite, Marquette, Century Aircraft, Craftsman, Goss, Uniweld, Purox, Linde, Eutectic, and Dillon welding torches from 1909 to Present. (58 total)

        Comment


        • #5
          Here is the mostly finnished piece. I have to trim the mounts and i am going to add a few gussets when I have some more free time. Thank you for your advice. I found that if I added some more filler in the beginning I didnt have to catch up to the bead, and I had more control over it.


          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by chrisevo8 View Post
            Here is the mostly finnished piece. I have to trim the mounts and i am going to add a few gussets when I have some more free time. Thank you for your advice. I found that if I added some more filler in the beginning I didnt have to catch up to the bead, and I had more control over it.


            Looks good,
            Gussets are always a good thing I know what you mean about having more control of the puddle. Another plus to having a larger weld fillet, is that it slows the cooling rate and gives you a better chance of not having a failure prone HAZ.
            -Aaron
            "Better Metalworking Through Research"

            Miller Dynasty 300DX
            Miller Dynasty 200DX
            Miller Spectrum 375 extreme
            Miller Millermatic Passport

            Miller Spot Welder
            Motor-Guard stud welder

            Smith, Meco, Oxweld , Cronatron, Harris, Victor, National, Prest-o-weld, Prest-o-lite, Marquette, Century Aircraft, Craftsman, Goss, Uniweld, Purox, Linde, Eutectic, and Dillon welding torches from 1909 to Present. (58 total)

            Comment

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