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  • Rust scale removal methods before paint?

    I picked up a used receiver hitch that has areas of rust scale underneath peeling paint. I want to clean it up so it looks decent and prevents rust from developing further.

    What would be a good method to remove the rust so I can repaint it? Wire wheel on an angle grinder? Flap disk? Something else?

    I don't have access to a media blaster, nor is the piece valuable enough to pay someone to do this.

    After removing the rust manually, is there a chemical worth putting on it to take care of any rust I missed and help prevent rust in the future; something that is OK to primer and paint over?

    Any recommended brands or type of rattle can primer/paint to use on the receiver hitch?

    Sorry if these questions have been answered before, my searches didn't pull up what I was looking for.

    Thanks for your help.

  • #2
    Well, once you have it down to bare metal. Use Self-Etching Primer. It is made to go on bare surfaces and provide excellent Adhesion. I prefer the brand SEM. But I'm sure some others will do the job fine as well. As far as chemicals to help prevent rust and kill it, There are some out there.

    have any pictures of the thing?

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    • #3
      Thanks for the info myistar. I hadn't really thought about the type of primer, so that is really good to know.

      I'll try to get a pic up in the next day or so. And I'll try to do an after shot when I'm done.

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      • #4
        If you have an automotive machine shop in the 'hood, ask them to drop it in the hot tank for a day. It'll come out nice and clean, and you can use a self-etching primer for good measure.

        Hank
        ...from the Gadget Garage
        Millermatic 210 w/3035, BWE
        Handler 210 w/DP3035
        TA185TSW
        Victor O/A "J" series, SuperRange

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        • #5
          Epoxy primers are about the best. Some dont even need all the rust cleaned, about a 220 etch, seals minor rust right in.

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          • #6
            SandBlaster then etch prime the gray primer then 2 coats of paint.

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            • #8
              Speed Blaster

              They make a small hand held sand blaster called the speed blaster it holds about a quart of sand it would be perfect for that.You will need an air compressor the small unit costs about $30.00 and works very well it is perfect for cleaning small parts like that.You can find one at Autobodystore.com or any auto body suppliers.Ive had one for about 3 years still works great.Mike

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              • #9
                Be sure you get all that stinking powdercoat off. I hate powdercoat due to frequency of its misuse.

                80% of failures are from 20% of causes
                Never compromise your principles today in the name of furthering them in the future.
                "All I ever wanted was an honest week's pay for an honest day's work." -Sgt. Bilko
                "We are generally better persuaded by reasons we discover ourselves than by those given to us by others." -Pascal
                "Since we cannot know all that there is to be known about anything, we ought to know a little about everything." -Pascal

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                • #10
                  you can use a wire cup on your grinder to get the bulk of the rust off then go to your local auto paint store and buy a product called "Rustmort". brush or spray it on with a spray bottle and let it dry. it turn any rust to a black oxide primer. anywhere it contacts no rust will stay wet. just hose that off with water, dry it off good then use any primer and paint. i've used this on a lot of farm equipment and as long the paint stays intact with no bare metal you won't have any reoccurring rust.
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                  • #11
                    How big of a tank do you need

                    Originally posted by crawdaddy View Post
                    They make a small hand held sand blaster called the speed blaster it holds about a quart of sand it would be perfect for that.You will need an air compressor the small unit costs about $30.00 and works very well it is perfect for cleaning small parts like that.You can find one at Autobodystore.com or any auto body suppliers.Ive had one for about 3 years still works great.Mike

                    Don't want to hi jack the thread but how much CFM or how big of a tank do you need for one of those small hand held blasters? Would an 8 gallon tank do it?
                    Thanks in advance

                    Comment


                    • #12
                      TurboDSM
                      in case you need it... that hitch number goes to a Subaru Forester..
                      here is a link to the mounting instructions...

                      http://www.etrailer.com/instructions.aspx?pn=36240

                      hope this helps
                      Heiti
                      .

                      *******************************************
                      The more you know, The better you know, How little you know

                      “The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten”

                      Buy the best tools you can afford.. Learn to use them to the best of your ability.. and take care of them...

                      My Blue Stuff:
                      Dynasty 350DX Tigrunner
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                      Millermatic 350P w/25ft Alumapro & 30A
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                      TONS of Non-Blue Equip, plus CNC Mill, Lathes & a Plasmacam w/ PowerMax-1000

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                      • #13
                        Originally posted by H80N View Post
                        in case you need it... that hitch number goes to a Subaru Forester..
                        Thanks, the guy I bought it from pulled it from a Forester. It's going on an Impreza though. Already mocked it up and it should fit no problem (my 97 Impreza and his 2000 Forester have the same basic chassis). So I have a class III hitch going on an application that normally would only have a class I hitch. Not that I'm going to be pulling anything that requires class III.

                        I've made some good progress in removing the rust and paint. No pics of the progress yet, I'll try to get some up soon.

                        I stopped by Harbor Freight and picked up a wire wheel and cup, also picked up one of these for grins:


                        WOW, I'm impressed! That thing pulls paint off like wiping dust off with a rag. Well, maybe not quite that easily but I like it compared to other things I've used. It does OK with the rust, but was worth it to strip the paint without damaging the metal.

                        It's time for a a bit more brushing, chemical on the rust spots and then primer/paint.
                        Attached Files

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                        • #14
                          Any one ever use rust remover acid called "OSPHO"?

                          It doesn't require a water rinse like some of the other rust converting chemicals. Water is the last thing I want to put on bare metal before paint.

                          If I use an acid like this, I don't think it would be wise to use an etching primer. From my understanding an etching primer is like a primer and acid combo. I think an epoxy primer will be better.

                          Here's the process I'm thinking now:
                          Manually remove as much rust/paint as possible (almost done)
                          wipe down with some type of wax and grease cleaner (not acetone or thinner)
                          Apply rust chemical (OSPHO?)
                          use scotch bright pad to remove chemical leftovers
                          wipe with tack cloth
                          apply epoxy primer
                          block sand and wipe with tack cloth
                          apply topcoat (paint)

                          Sound OK?

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                          • #15
                            OSPHO
                            is really a phosphoric acid conversion coating... and does not really remove much rust.. just leaves a phosphate layer on it... it is good stuff for what it was intended but I would not use it on the heavy stuff.. here is a link to their site...

                            http://www.ospho.com/directions.htm


                            hope this helps
                            Heiti
                            .

                            *******************************************
                            The more you know, The better you know, How little you know

                            “The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten”

                            Buy the best tools you can afford.. Learn to use them to the best of your ability.. and take care of them...

                            My Blue Stuff:
                            Dynasty 350DX Tigrunner
                            Dynasty 200DX
                            Millermatic 350P w/25ft Alumapro & 30A
                            Millermatic 200

                            TONS of Non-Blue Equip, plus CNC Mill, Lathes & a Plasmacam w/ PowerMax-1000

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