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Rust scale removal methods before paint?

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  • #16
    Originally posted by Sammy View Post
    Don't want to hi jack the thread but how much CFM or how big of a tank do you need for one of those small hand held blasters? Would an 8 gallon tank do it?
    Thanks in advance
    8 gallons would be a little light but it also depends on the CFM of the compressor if you have a high output pump it might work or you could do small areas then wait for it to fill. Its only 30 or 40 bucks might be worth it to check it out.Mike

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    • #17
      Originally posted by TurboDSM View Post
      Any one ever use rust remover acid called "OSPHO"?

      It doesn't require a water rinse like some of the other rust converting chemicals. Water is the last thing I want to put on bare metal before paint.

      If I use an acid like this, I don't think it would be wise to use an etching primer. From my understanding an etching primer is like a primer and acid combo. I think an epoxy primer will be better.

      Here's the process I'm thinking now:
      Manually remove as much rust/paint as possible (almost done)
      wipe down with some type of wax and grease cleaner (not acetone or thinner)
      Apply rust chemical (OSPHO?)
      use scotch bright pad to remove chemical leftovers
      wipe with tack cloth
      apply epoxy primer
      block sand and wipe with tack cloth
      apply topcoat (paint)

      Sound OK?
      If you plan on using automotive epoxy make sure its compatible with acid treatments or it will delaminate down the road.Phosphoric acid isnt going to do much to heavy rust.Im suprised no one here has mentioned Muratic acid it removes rust very quickly and the metal will look brand new in no time flat.You just need to use it safely and keep any waste away from children or pets.Mike

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      • #18
        Originally posted by H80N View Post
        OSPHO
        is really a phosphoric acid conversion coating... and does not really remove much rust.. just leaves a phosphate layer on it... it is good stuff for what it was intended but I would not use it on the heavy stuff..
        Thanks Heiti. Heavy stuff, like heavy rust? Looks like I need something that can keep the cavities under control.

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        • #19
          TurboDSM
          I think what you may be looking for is a tannic acid type conversion coating like por15 and many others... one that converts the brown rust to an inactive BLACK magnetite... and seals the surface with a water based latex primer..that you can paint over with enamel once set up.. and dried.. here is a link to one of those products... there are a zillion of them with about the same recipe..

          http://www.corroseal.com/technical/productdata.aspx

          the tractor collector community swears by that class of stuff and it works..
          hope this helps
          Heiti
          .

          *******************************************
          The more you know, The better you know, How little you know

          “The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten”

          Buy the best tools you can afford.. Learn to use them to the best of your ability.. and take care of them...

          My Blue Stuff:
          Dynasty 350DX Tigrunner
          Dynasty 200DX
          Millermatic 350P w/25ft Alumapro & 30A
          Millermatic 200

          TONS of Non-Blue Equip, plus CNC Mill, Lathes & a Plasmacam w/ PowerMax-1000

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          • #20
            Originally posted by crawdaddy View Post
            If you plan on using automotive epoxy make sure its compatible with acid treatments or it will delaminate down the road.Phosphoric acid isnt going to do much to heavy rust.Im suprised no one here has mentioned Muratic acid it removes rust very quickly and the metal will look brand new in no time flat.You just need to use it safely and keep any waste away from children or pets.Mike
            Thanks Mike, something to keep an eye out for as far as epoxy primer. Muriatic (Hydrochloric) acid...not sure I want to venture there. I would be better off grinding the rust out.

            Comment


            • #21
              Originally posted by H80N View Post
              TurboDSM
              I think what you may be looking for is a tannic acid type conversion coating like por15 and many others... one that converts the brown rust to an inactive BLACK magnetite... and seals the surface with a water based latex primer..that you can paint over with enamel once set up.. and dried.. here is a link to one of those products... there are a zillion of them with about the same recipe..

              http://www.corroseal.com/technical/productdata.aspx

              the tractor collector community swears by that class of stuff and it works..
              hope this helps
              Heiti
              So a self etching primer?

              Now I can't decide what to do...lol

              This thing doesn't need to be perfect. Etching primer sounds a bit more simple with less room for error than phosphoric acid/primer process. I suppose it might depend on how much rust I'm able to physically remove before hand.

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              • #22
                TurboDSM
                these conversion coatings are a one step deal converter/primer... one of the easiest to get is Rust-Oleum Rust Reformer.... most hardware stores carry it...

                http://www.rustoleum.com/product.asp...ct_id=30&SBL=1

                you may find this a painless solution
                thanks
                Heiti
                .

                *******************************************
                The more you know, The better you know, How little you know

                “The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten”

                Buy the best tools you can afford.. Learn to use them to the best of your ability.. and take care of them...

                My Blue Stuff:
                Dynasty 350DX Tigrunner
                Dynasty 200DX
                Millermatic 350P w/25ft Alumapro & 30A
                Millermatic 200

                TONS of Non-Blue Equip, plus CNC Mill, Lathes & a Plasmacam w/ PowerMax-1000

                Comment


                • #23
                  Making progress. Still a lot of work to do with a wire wheel.





                  Attached Files

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                  • #24
                    Originally posted by H80N View Post
                    TurboDSM
                    these conversion coatings are a one step deal converter/primer... one of the easiest to get is Rust-Oleum Rust Reformer.... most hardware stores carry it...

                    http://www.rustoleum.com/product.asp...ct_id=30&SBL=1

                    you may find this a painless solution
                    thanks
                    Heiti
                    Good ol' Rust-Oleum...lol Reminds me of something I'd pickup at wally world when I was 12.

                    Seriously, is it worth using or am I going to be redoing it in a few years, even with a good solid topcoat?

                    Thanks again Heiti

                    Comment


                    • #25
                      TurboDSM
                      if you live in winter/salt country you will redo it every few years regardless.. You have gotten it very clean... in your situation I would go with the rust reformer.. give it 24hours in a warm dry place to set and dry then brush 2 good coats of rustoleum black on it.. (or purple or red or... your decision)
                      then you are good to go...
                      thanks
                      Heiti
                      .

                      *******************************************
                      The more you know, The better you know, How little you know

                      “The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten”

                      Buy the best tools you can afford.. Learn to use them to the best of your ability.. and take care of them...

                      My Blue Stuff:
                      Dynasty 350DX Tigrunner
                      Dynasty 200DX
                      Millermatic 350P w/25ft Alumapro & 30A
                      Millermatic 200

                      TONS of Non-Blue Equip, plus CNC Mill, Lathes & a Plasmacam w/ PowerMax-1000

                      Comment


                      • #26
                        Got it done. The wire wheel did OK but I ended up using a flap disk on the heavy rust spots.

                        One coat of the Rust Reformer. Just a light coat of sandable primer (I like to do a light sanding before paint) and 3 coats of paint.






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